Women’s Style, the Timeless and Endlessly Versatile World of Kiton

“Il meglio del meglio piu uno” or “THE BEST OF THE BEST +1” that’s the promise of Kiton. The name Kiton comes from the ancient Greek and Roman word chiton, which translates to tunic. The family tailoring house launched in 1968 by Ciro Paone, is now run by the founders nephews, Antonio Paone and Antonio De Matteis. Kiton is widely known for their selection of premium mens suits, Cashmere sport coats, and jeans, however the brand boasts an often overlooked line of premium womenswear.

Softly constructed single, and double breasted jackets fuel the imagination with luxurious fabrics and plenty of hand stitching. The selection of pieces which include Silk dresses, scarfs, and shorts allow the modern woman to build a wardrobe with flexibility whether lounging by the pool, walking along the shore or conducting a Board Room meeting; Kiton’s fine selection of womenswear has few equals. A particular highlight of Kiton’s manufacturing process is that their fabric mills are owned by the brand and print a wide range of exclusive fabrics.

Kiton’s Fall 2021 womenswear collection featured a prominent selection of pieces in a fabric that has been dubbed “Millioniare’s Cashmere” by Kiton’s Creative Director, Maria Giovanna Paone. The Collection includes a wide range of pieces focused on versatility such as Jersey two-piece outfits, loungecoats, cardigans, as well as Silk shirts, loafers, and stylish wide cut jeans. Rich Earth tones are a collection hallmark. And if you’re considering visiting the Rockies or the Alps this Winter, do consider a few pieces from the brands “Ski-capsule” Collection. Jackets are priced from around $4,000 and expect to pay $2,000 or so for a dress. If “tailored, refined, and nonchalant” is your wardrobe philosophy few brands compare. Kiton’s Women’s Collection can be found at Kiton’s online store as well as locally at Debra C in the Carmel Crossroads.

Images courtesy of: Kiton

Dior Spring Summer 2020 Haute Couture: Womenswear or Goddesswear?

Marie Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from ancient Greek and Roman goddesses when developing Dior’s Spring Summer 2020 Collection. While simultaneously maintaining Dior’s design DNA, Chiuri begins to challenge how far haute couture silhouettes can be taken and ask “Are Clothes Modern?”

In line with the “Goddess” inspired clothing, the question “What if Women Ruled the World?” often asked by American artist Judy Chicago remained at the heart of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s design philosophy when creating the Spring-Summer 2020 haute couture collection.

Presented at the Musée Rodin, the 2,500 year old peplos took center stage; originally developed as body length women’s garment in Ancient Greece, Dior’s interpretation is much like a modern day evening dress. The drape of the ancient inspired garments in the collection were complemented by counterparts of the collection in fitted jackets with loose collars paired with skirts and pants. Uncommon patterns such as, houndstooth and herringbone were incorporated to give the collection a more powerful masculine edge without comprising on Dior’s feminine design details.

Judy Chicago, whose well received installation at Musée Rodin titled “The Female Divine,” is said to “serve as a sanctuary, a stage and a monumental artwork for the Dior Spring-Summer 2020 haute couture collection.” It was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mission to highlight the ideas of American Feminist art and give new life to the ‘divine conception of femininity.’

With each and every new season, Dior pushes their Creative Director to immerse them-self in a particular subject to develop a unique theme with a “singular vision.” With this collection Chiuri appears to have pushed herself to find the line between ‘ feminism and femininity’ while simultaneously ” re-sculpting the body like a manifesto.”

Image credit: © Dior, provided courtesy of LVMH

An In-depth Look at Women’s Suits

This is the perfect time for women to swap out their dress and skirt suits for elegant yet professional pant suits. In the last few seasons, designers have given women more reasons to ditch the old notion about suits being a reserve for the corporate environment or office wear.

Of course, you can still maintain the formal 9 to 5 blazer and pants combination but pant suits for women don’t just end there. Thanks to endless design options, there are numerous pant suit styles for any occasion including playful patterns, springtime pastels, and casual prints for all seasons.

Pant suits have come a long way since they were first introduced to the fashion world by Andre Courreges way back in the 1960s. Designer pant suits, popularly known as trouser suits outside the US, are basically a pair of trousers perfectly matched with a jacket or coat.

The pant suit was originally designed for business occasions but as more companies start to shift towards casual wear, women are now sporting innovatively designed pant suits in and out of the office pairing them with wonderful jewelry. A pantsuit is just as handy in a meeting with an important client or in a job interview as it is in an informal occasion. All that matters is getting the right design for the right place. And there is no shortage of design.

Fall 2019 has introduced notable trends that focus on ditching the traditional sharp masculine shapes in suiting for clean feminine lines. For instance, Clare Waight Keller, who designs clothes with women in mind, now features curved-shoulder suits that give the usual slim blazer an elegant feminine appeal. Marco Zanini has not been left behind in the new women pant suit trend with his artfully designed cinched jackets complemented by matching pants.

There are endless and quite affordable options today including posh lapel-less tops and matching bottoms, smooth and comfortable polyester no-iron fabrics, classic black ladylike shaped suits that you can wear over a boxy turtle neck, and dark grey or light gray options to suit your style and of course the occasion.   

Today’s pant suits for women provide a wide range of options in terms of design and materials used. The current trend seems to focus more on slim-fit designs with an elegant chic style. Most have tops with low popped collars, single large front button, lapel-less open front, and stylish vents on both sides of the front jacket. There are endless fabric and color options in today’s pant suits for women. Viscose and polyester are favored by most women because of their soft and comfortable fit.

Retro styles still persist in women’s pant suit designs too. There are 1970s inspired women suits featuring high waists, wide roomy pants, and matching blazers with broad shoulders. These bold fashion statements blend well in all settings including work, parties, formal events, and any special occasion. If skirt suits are no longer your thing or when you feel like trying something more elegant for a change, a two-piece blazer and pants suit is your perfect choice. Pant suits for women are not just ordinary suits for the office but something you pull out of your wardrobe when you are in the right mood to dress to impress.

Images Courtesy of: Givenchy

Patou showcases women’s ready-to-wear collection

During Paris Fashion Week famed French Maison, Patou unveiled their very first new women’s ready-to-wear collection since the revival of the brand by LVMH. Founded in 1914, Jean Patou had been renowned for handcrafting women’s couture for decades throughout the 20th century. The all new collection was showcased at the Patou headquarters on Ile de la Cité.

The classic Jean Patou look was often characterized by their flowing evening gowns that blended high cutting edge fashion with elegant simplicity as well as their sportswear collection, which revolutionized the fashion industry. In 2018, LVMH appointed Guillaume Henry as Artistic Director of Patou. For the new collection, Henry’s designs were described by LVMH as “versatile and fun mischievousness.”

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The Patou runway featured A-line skirts, sporty suits, and ‘exquisitely worked lace and floral embroidery.’ Parisian elegance meets streetwear was at the heart of Patou’s new collection where a collaboration with Le Coq Sportif shoe brand complimented Patou’s sportswear heritage. Guillaume Henry payed another homage to Jean Patou by embellishing “a denim jacket, a coat and a marinière sweater with an interlaced JP for “Jean” and “Patou.”” Jean Patou is often regarded as one of the very first designers to sign his creations with a monogram.

The new Patou women’s ready to wear collection will be available beginning mid-November on the Patou website.

Image credit: © Patou courtesy of LVMH

Talking Sustainable Fashion with Pauline Hansen of PAMA London

German born, London based eco-entrepreneur, active-wear designer, and yogini, Pauline Hansen is passionate about contributing to a more mindful world. For Pauline, Yoga is more than just an activity, it is a lifestyle. With this in mind, we seized the opportunity to chat with the Creative Director about how she aims to make a difference and why sustainability in fashion is so important. When meeting Pauline you are quite literally intoxicated by her overwhelming energy and enthusiasm. As she showed us her most recent collection titled ‘Moon and Stars’, Pauline’s first statement was “the new collection is all made out of recycled plastics from the ocean.” 

All of the fabric in PAMA London’s current collection is sourced from plastic gathered from the ocean and sea around Spain. After the plastic is collected it is woven into a yarn, which is made into a superfluous fabric in Italy. Pauline’s desire to produce high quality and environmentally conscious clothing is at the heart of her brand. “The Issue with fast fashion [is] people just keep on buying and buying and then they threw [the clothes] away,” says Pauline. “It’s better to buy a couple of things that are really nice and then keep them for longer.”

In the past, Hansen’s brand PAMA London had their line manufactured in Los Angeles, however for this new collection, PAMA moved manufacturing to Portugal where ultramodern equipment is able to assist in the creation of the brand’s current line. When discussing the subject of the move, Pauline explains “I moved everything to Portugal because actually the technology is much better there for Active-wear and flatlock stitching.” 

Read on to learn more about the woman behind what can easily be described as one of the best active-wear brands on the market.

How did you initially become interested in Yoga and Wellness? And how did that subsequently inspire you to create PAMA London?

“My Mom always took [me and my four sisters to do Yoga] since we were little. My Mom has always been really into Yoga. I decided to do my Yoga teacher training in Costa Rica just for myself to deepen my practice and I learned a lot about the chakras and the energy fields and how it also helps you when you wear [particular] colors; and I thought at least when you practice yoga it’s nice to wear something sustainable, made [mindfully], and eco conscious. I live in London and I’m always in big cities. I live in my PAMA leggings because they are comfortable and you know you run around and it’s important when you practice yoga, or [at least personally] for me it was important because everything that you put on your skin [should be made ethically] and good for your skin and has no chemicals. So I wanted to create something [that is] fit to form because leggings are really high waisted, so they really tuck you in and support you [in] your active lifestyle and for yoga practice. I wanted to create something not only like organic cotton or linen, because [many] yoga clothes [are made from those materials]. All the gurus in India wear organic cotton or linen. I wanted to create something that could be worn in the city and look fashionable.”

What has been the inspiration behind your collections so far?

“So I did my Yoga teacher training in Costa Rica with Marianne Wells Yoga School and we [focused] a lot on the Chakras. So [the Chakras inspired] the first collection, which is made from charcoal bamboo. [My second collection], the Moon and Stars Collection was very influenced by astrology. I’m bringing out new leggings in October, so they are [influenced by] astrology and star alignment. I work with the ECONYL brand, so that’s an organization that cleans up the ocean, they take the plastic from the ocean [and repurpose the materials into nylon which is used in our second collection].”

“The Moon and Stars [collection was inspired by the] love [I have for] the moon cycle and my interest in bio dynamic farming. The cycle of Bio Dynamic Farming and the Moon Cycle [were definitely major inspirations]. I [became] inspired [one year ago] when I was in Tulum because there was an astrology workshop [with] a woman, who spoke a lot about the star alignments. The energy in Tulum is very magical, it is healing.”

We absolutely love that PAMA London is eco-conscious and ethically made. With that said, why do you believe that it is so critical for brands to produce great products that are both environmentally considerate and ethical?

“It really depends on the industry that you are in. If you make flowy dresses or [like my brand PAMA London], it’s really high-performance and activewear with a focus of fitting really well and providing support. [For me] it’s important to use fabrics that are biodegradable for the earth. There are so many things now, it’s like ‘where do you start and where do you stop?’ I think [with] the whole cycle, it’s important to tick all of the boxes [in regards to] sustainable production. So [for me] it’s always [fabric] quality; [the material in the Moon and Stars Collection] is wonderful because it gives great support and is just [all around] such a nice fabric. [Though] even if it’s not a legging, it’s still always about the material. It’s also important to me that there are no toxins in the fabric because eighty percent go straight into your skin [and then] the blood stream.”

What do you believe makes PAMA London stand-out compared to other Active Wear brands?

“It’s important when you produce a product that is [very desirable], especially for me. Selling in London, I think people in the [USA] are more open minded but it is still fit to form and is still fashionable [not to mention] looks nice. I wanted to create something that is young and fun, and not too organic because there are a lot of sustainable organic brands. I see their [products] and it’s nice that they use [organic or sustainable materials] and it’s [also] nice how they produce, but for me personally I would never really love to wear [those products] because I’d like to wear something that looks [stylish] and not too strange. Most of the other eco-friendly activewear brands have very baggy garments made from hemp or [similar materials]. With the Nylon [that I use in my collection our products] are fit to form and really tuck you in very well because all of the leggings are high waisted.”

“We use sustainable recycled fabric. Very few activewear brands are using recycled plastic [in their products]. What is nice about PAMA is that it is a simple and timeless active wear [brand]. [Our pieces] can be worn in the city and are not too funky like many other organic brands that [resemble a] hippy [style], you know? A lot of other brands’ designs are just too hippy yoga. I wouldn’t feel comfortable wearing them in London when I’m running about all day.”

Can you tell us a little bit about the healing colours of the seven Chakras in your collection?

“The Chakra collection is all about the colours and how you are attracted to a [particular] colour each day. Based on the colour that you are drawn to, this is the Chakra that you should work on. It is nice to wear the colour Chakra that you are working on to balance out that Chakra. Each of the Chakra bras come with a booklet that explains each chakra and how each Chakra helps you when you wear the colours.”

“So the bras are made in the colours. The first collection featured all of the colours and now the new Chakra bra is available in two [shades] of blue, green, and violet. The chakra is all about the energy field, so it [always tells] a story. And it is quite like mystical.”

Take us through a day in the life of Pauline Hansen.

“Well, it’s always so different because I travel so much! My parents brought [me and my siblings] up so internationally. In the summer my [family] is always in Germany and then in the winter my family is in the US. But I’m based in London [and] I’ve been there for seven and a half years now. I start my day with morning Yoga because it really grounds me and helps me to set all my intentions. I focus and I feel great with my Yoga practice, it really helps me.”

What is your favorite work-out and how do you find the time to fit it in?

“Well I always do Yoga, [so] I should work-out more. [Aside from] Power Yoga, Yoga really isn’t a workout; it’s more for your mind and your spirit. It’s great to work out – I love going hiking, I love swimming, and I love just being active. I actually [dance] Zumba, [as well]. I love dancing, I used to dance professionally in Germany until I was 19 [years old].”

How do you feel that Yoga has impacted your life?

“For example when you travel, sometimes you cannot do Yoga. But I try to do it every day even if it is just for ten minutes. It really helps me just to ground myself and to have clear thoughts. You know when you’re really stressed out, and you have so many meetings, I just do Yoga and it helps me to [compile] my thoughts and to get to a decision when [I] can’t make up my mind about things.”

“Yoga is really a whole lifestyle. Only twenty percent is on the mat and 80 percent is off the mat. That’s why I also produce the [PAMA London clothing] because I think it’s silly if you just sit there on your mat and then everyone says ‘be mindful, be good to the planet’, and normally people only speak about eating organic and gluten free [as well as] vegan or vegetarian. But then all the yogis don’t really care so much [about] what they wear. [However, yoga] is a whole lifestyle. It’s just as important [as] what you put on your skin and see where it is manufactured. Before I started my brand I was sitting there in my Lulu Lemon outfit and I just thought ‘great, but what I’m wearing was actually produced in Bangladesh’. And now I’m sitting here doing my yoga [and] talking about ‘be good to the earth and mindful to every being’. Like I’m vegan for four years [now], but I’ve been vegetarian since I was 14.”

Being a frequent traveler, what are some of your favorite wellness destinations?

“Actually, I’ve honestly never been to such a special place as [where we are here in Big Sur, California] I’ve traveled a lot, and Big Sur and also [specifically the Post Ranch Inn] is very impressive. The garden here [at the resort] and all of the vegetables they grow for the [restaurant]; the nature is so impressive here. Yesterday I went on a four hour hike and I learned so much! The [giant Redwood] trees are so impressive. I had never seen so much nature in one day, and in one place. You have the ocean and then the forest. I think it’s very special and super magical. [Also, in Big Sur] everyone is so into Yoga.”

“I also love Tulum, especially since there is this healer from Los Angeles – his name is Bobby Klein. I’ve been [visiting] Tulum for eight years, and now because of Instagram everyone is there, so it’s great to visit Tulum off season. Tulum is great because it’s very eco-conscious. Then there is the Yäan wellness spa by Bobby Klein. The Mayan energy [in Tulum] is super healing and they work everything with the Chakras, as well. I think Mexicans are really amazing people, they are so nice! Whenever I’m in Tulum I feel the best because [many] of the hotels are on the beach. You are right on the beach and it’s so nice! You also have the jungle. You can drive around there and visit so many sanitas and healing waters and [natural] springs.”

Is there anywhere that you have not yet visited, but are dying to go and see?

“So [Big Sur] was really on my bucket list. I would love to visit Bhutan to see all of the temples, hike around there, and also visit the Himalayas. I think that is supposed to be really amazing. I’ve also never been to Bali or Hawaii.”

Where to next?

“I want to make sustainable fashion even more accessible to everyone. My dream is to see everyone wearing sustainable fashion.”

Is there anything you’d like to add that you didn’t have the chance to say?

“I’ve already filmed the [PAMA clothing] production, but I am really hoping to share more about our sustainable production and the educational side of things as well. I am going to be starting a blog in October. No one really knows what goes into the fabrics [of most clothing], there are so many toxins and then even if you wash them the clothes still have toxins in there.”

“I think the new generation is so much more aware of [being environmentally conscious] and supporting sustainable fashion. I work with ocean cleanup and they clean up the ocean [from] the plastic. But then you have all this plastic, so it’s great to recycle that into something. It’s a whole cycle! Our packaging is made from organic cotton.”

“In the process of making things, it is not only that vegan is much better and like non-vegan is bad. Because for example, leather is biodegradable. So, I’m vegan, but I wear leather goods. I think natural shoes are much nicer than plastic. One of the worst vegan fashion products is vegan fur, because the process of vegan fur production is so much more polluting to the environment than like buying or wearing an organic fur that [meets] all the guidelines where the animals aren’t harmed that much.”

Where can we follow you?

“We have the @PAMALONDON Instagram and we also have the website.”

Images courtesy of: PAMA London

Marc Jacobs SS2020 wows with bright colors and floral patterns at NYFW

New York Fashion Week ended with a colorful explosion. Marc Jacob’s Spring-Summer 2020 Women’s collection boasted a diverse range of warm colors most notably highlighted in floral pattern dresses. LVMH stated that creative director Marc Jacobs “imagined the colorful show as an optimistic celebration of life.”

“This show is a celebration of life, joy, equality, individuality, optimism, happiness, indulgence, dreams and a future unwritten as we continue to learn from our past and the history of fashion,” said Marc Jacobs.

Jacob’s Spring Summer 2020 collection delved deep into fashion history by honoring historic patterns with a modern touch. The collection is utterly fresh, yet we can easily note that it shares some direct links with the Marc Jacobs Spring-Summer 2001 collection; a collection which payed homage to the 1970s with similarly bright colors and floral patterns. The pieces in the collection, which were modeled by the likes of Kaia Gerber and Gigi Hadid, paid tribute to the present and appeared to anticipate an exciting time to come for the fashion industry. According to Footwear News, Jacobs credited his inspirations as ‘Karl Lagerfeld, Doris Day, Lee Radziwill and Anita Pallenberg.’

A 1950’s Jazz Aura was definitely present during the show, with “Dream a Little Dream of Me” by Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong playing in the background of the event. The minimally furnished event allowed for Jacob’s designs to occupy the complete attention of viewers. Throughout the show models walked as well as danced across the runway in multicolored ruffled flowing floral gowns and flared pantsuits, sometimes without even a pair of shoes.

“As with closely guarded tradition, tonight is our reminder of the joy in dressing up, our unadulterated love of fashion and embracing grand gestures of unbridled expressions, reactions, ideas and possibilities,” said Jacobs as the show came to a close.

Image credit: © Marc Jacobs provided courtesy of LVMH

The Story of NY Vintage | The Most Extravagant Vintage Clothing Boutique

With a museum-worthy collection of luxury vintage clothing that dates back to the 1860s and having dressed a wide-range of celebrity clients like Lady Gaga, former first lady Michelle Obama, and Beyoncé, New York Vintage is unlike any other clothing store in New York City.

But for owner and founder Shannon Hoey, it’s all about preserving history and making it readily available to the public.

Having founded the store in 2002, when she was only 26 years old, Hoey says that her life before owning NY Vintage can be described as a mix of working as a freelance designer, traveling with her husband who worked in the antique business, and buying and selling vintage clothing items.

“I came across one estate that we purchased that had all couture and specialized pieces, and I started collecting. That’s really how I fell into it,” says Hoey. “From there I started selling to museums, I sold privately and then I literally stopped taking jobs and took a store and jumped right into it not knowing if I was going to pay the rent the next month.” However the risk certainly paid off.

Located just two blocks away from Madison Square Park in Manhattan, the store has a retail space available to the general public on the main floor and a showroom upstairs that houses the most desirable and expensive pieces in Hoey’s collection.

Although both the retail space and the showroom are home to an astounding array of designer vintage wear, the showroom is only open to individuals working within the fashion industry, including stylists, editors, creative directors, designers, and fashion photographers, all of whom are vetted before being granted access to the exclusive space. “It’s not rent the runway,” Hoey jokes.

Walking into the showroom for the first time, it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer number of incredible pieces in Hoey’s assemblage. Whether it be clothing that was once owned by actress Sophia Loren or even pieces that belonged to Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw from Sex and the City.

“The question that I always get is, how did you collect all of this? And this is a culmination of years of traveling and buying and searching for those really special pieces,” explains Hoey. “We have over 150 years of some of the most important fashion.”

When asked what her favorite piece from her collection is, Hoey gives a quick yet assured response. “All of it.”

“Anything that’s up here would be difficult to part with, I remember where I purchased it, when I purchased it, just the excitement of finding these pieces,” she says. “Everything up here is really special to me.”

Even so, with an extensive collection that includes garments and accessories made between the 1860s and today, Hoey concedes that the pieces she is most well-known for are those from the 1920s.

But that shouldn’t come as a surprise considering that she rented out clothing for the Leonardo DiCaprio led remake of The Great Gatsby. And with racks filled with these 1920s era dresses, she estimates that each one is worth about $6,000 USD.

Keeping in mind the price and age of these items, Hoey explains that depending on the condition of the garment, many of her items that date back to the 1920s aren’t used for red carpet wear. Instead, they are mostly rented out for photoshoots, where movement in the clothing is more minimal.

But for pieces that are even older and date back to the Victorian era, she says that those items are exclusively reserved for designer research – providing inspiration or even the possibility for a replica to be made.

Up until recently though, taking advantage of Hoey’s incredible collection housed in her second-floor showroom was limited to people within the fashion industry who were either based in New York or willing to make the trek. Now, following the creation of her exclusive online archive, that barrier is no longer in place.

Proud of the new platform and all that it has to offer, Hoey likes to describe it as “Pinterest meets Polyvore,” since it allows users to create storyboards with the NY Vintage pieces they find themselves most inspired by.

“The most fulfilling thing for me with my job, with what I do, is being able to take my client’s vision and see that through fruition, to be able to present them with the story that’s in their head,” explains Hoey. This same reasoning can also explain why in recent years Hoey has taken up personally styling celebrity clients herself, one of her most notable clients being actress Jennifer Lawrence.

Having been in business for around 17 years now, Hoey doesn’t see herself leaving anytime soon and with her own jewelry line in the works right now, she is taking steps to add to her retail space as well.

“I’ve taken some of the pieces that were in really high demand and I made them better,” says Hoey. “So, designing is the next chapter for me.”

Yet at the end of the day and looking back on all that she has achieved with her business, Hoey remains humble and kind, making the store feel inviting, especially with her two young daughters sitting nearby, playing together in the retail space.

“The energy here is incredible, it’s dynamic, it’s ever changing. You’re always learning, and everything has a story, it’s a rewarding process, meeting new people,” she says.

Images courtesy of: New York Vintage

Leaf Greener: “Fashion Industry Needs to Slow Down”

Liberty, Enthusiasm, Aesthetics, Fantasy. Unlike traditional print magazines, the LEAF WeChat magazine doesn’t follow rules in terms of format and frequency. Nor does the magazine discuss fashion trends and gossip. “It’s about design theories, [and] about ethics,” Leaf Greener said in our interview. “We believe in slow fashion and publish articles whenever we find right angles and themes.”

Leaf Greener, the former Senior Fashion Editor of Elle China and Founder of LEAF WeChat Magazine, is a Chinese fashion influencer and creative consultant with more than 300,000 followers on Instagram. A rising star in the Chinese fashion industry, Greener has shown her talent in not only styling modern chic looks, but also in discovering the values behind fashion designs.

After graduating with a degree in fashion design, Greener didn’t choose to pursue a career as a fashion designer. “I was more interested in doing the work behind the scene, like writing articles,” she said. In 2007, she decided to work for Elle China and made the move from Beijing to Shanghai where the headquarter’s of the magazine is based. Having lived and worked in two of the best-known cities in China, Greener told me that she felt like the vibes between the two cities were just so different. “It could be like two countries sometimes,” she said. She later explained that this difference was revealed to her as a versatility of Chinese culture between the North and South.

As a fashion journalist whose work has been featured in publications such as Vogue, New York Magazine, New York Times, and Elle, Greener expressed her concern about fashion journalism today in our interview. “Journalism [has] vanished, fashion [has] failed, and we are living in a fake-news era,” said Greener. “It makes me sad.” She added, “We can’t write something without responsibility, just as jokes.” The media, in her opinion, is a vital means of education. “Before, we knew things by talking to people around us and reading; now, we learn from the TV and social media.” She’s aware of the need to make fashion more approachable through the media. As she said, there’s a gap regarding the notion of fashion between insiders and outsiders.

When discussing her experience in fashion journalism, she stated: “I was trained as a fashion designer at first, [so] I know how the fashion industry works. Later on, as a fashion editor, I got to know where the creativity of fashion comes from.” How has Greener’s stint at Elle China from 2008 to 2014 influenced her ideas about fashion journalism and the industry as a whole? “I was trained professionally. Thanks to the training, I have been equipped with the skill, taste, and knowledge. [And] I really appreciate the chance to work with creative artists and other editors.”

In 2015, Greener founded the LEAF WeChat magazine and switched her focus to digital media. “Our magazine is based on [a] social media platform,” she said, “and I want to reach out to [a larger] audience.” When asked about the role of social media in the world of fashion nowadays, she said, “it’s more democratic.” However, she pointed out that luxury businesses today haven’t fully taken advantage of digital platforms and social media. “There [is so much] fake news and a lot of brands are focusing on the quantity not quality,” she said, “but luxury is kind of exclusive and private, which is focused on the quality not quantity.” Yet her confidence in the industry was also conveyed as she continued. “It’s a process. Luxury [businesses] may develop too fast and they need some time to be more cautious.”

Having traveled around the world and appeared in many photographs at ultra prestigious fashion events, Greener shared with us her personal style, philosophy, and favorite cities. “My style is pretty playful and I enjoy playing with my wardrobe,” said Greener. She attributed her unique personal style to her own personality and interpretation of social connections. “I [dress] like my personality, which has multiple layers. And when I go to different social occasions, I will dress differently based [on] my connections with [the] people present.” In terms of the places she has enjoyed visiting most, Greener has given her heart to Rome, Tuscany, Paris, and Shanghai. One thing she must do whenever she goes to a city is to visit the food market there and experience the local culture. Greener is also passionate about visiting local museums, galleries, and churches. Earlier on the day of our interview, Greener had just returned home to Shanghai from a trip and would soon hit the road again to attend a festival that supports new talent in the fashion industry held in Hyères, a prominent city in Southern France. Greener mentioned it would be her third visit to Hyeres, and that last year she was one of the judges for the festival.

In the end, Greener said that she is now kind of in an “in-and-out” status regarding the fashion business. Recognizing the fact that fashion is the second most polluting industry globally, she advocates the idea of slow fashion and hopes more people won’t just express sentiment to “protect our planet”, but act upon it. “I am glad that I can choose something that is very meaningful and helpful for the society,” said Greener.

Follow Leaf Greener on her Instagram Account and personal website.

Images Courtesy of: LEAF WeChat Magazine

A Peter Marino Designed Chanel Flagship Boutique Opens in Seoul

Located in Apgujeong-dong, which is well regarded as one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in South Korea, Chanel’s newly-opened Seoul flagship store stands out as an identifiable abstraction of the international brand’s icon in a prime, urban surrounding. The opening of which marks the 10th boutique across the country.

Architect, Peter Marino, who has been regularly commissioned by Chanel to design boutiques in New York, Paris, Tokyo and London, solved another challenge of how to represent modern luxury in a structural delicacy. Covered in black glass and lava stone, the new boutique reveals classic black-and-white elegance that is the embodiment of Chanel’s emblematic logo.

Minimalistic and futuristic, the monolithic Chanel Seoul boutique inherits Coco Chanel’s signature, black-and-white tweed, and is recreated with modern chic. Instead of depicting the iconography as an integral unit, Marino decomposed the symbol to several radical elements and reassembled them in an abstracted way. The representative tone of black and white can be observed in the contrast between the monolithic body and LED-illuminated logos on the corners of the façade. The spirit of Chanel, simple but versatile, is expressed in the ubiquitous presence of oblongs seen from seemingly moveable lava stones on the surface to caved-in glass windows.

The spacious seven-floor building is not only a striking design on the outside, but on the inside, as well. Unlike the exterior, the inside is furnished with ivory colored floors and an articulated display of lighting. While ready-to-wear clothes, handbags, shoes and jewelry are placed on the three lower floors, distinguished shoppers can also enjoy private spaces on the upper floors for receptions and special events. Staircases polished in a white tone and divided with charcoal railings connect the many floors of the boutique. Artwork created by renowned artists from across the globe are interspersed among trending fashion styles inside the building. On the ground floor, two commissioned works-fan-motored fabric pillows by Pablo Reinoso and mounted gold pearl beads by Paola Pivi are displayed. Both works fit perfectly in the settings consisting of the brand’s spring/summer collections. In the private reception room on the top floor, works by Peter Marino himself, Andrew Lord, and Ned Vena contribute to an undisturbed moment of serenity and intimacy.

Image Credit: © Tim Franco courtesy of Chanel

Over the Moon with Makenzie Moon Phelan

Makenzie Moon Phelan in the Studio, all images courtesy of the artist, 2019.

The Extravagant discusses art, culture and makeup with Makenzie Moon Phelan, NYC based artist and socialite, and daughter of wickedly fun art world patrons Amy and John Phelan. Drawing from a wide range of cultural references, we dive into her work as a makeup artist and her contemporary art practice:

What drew you to the world of make-up?  What do you feel is the role of the make-up artist and how does your fine art background (i.e. painting) inform your practice?

“Since I was young, I have been interested in both fine art and make-up for cinema or fashion.  Before parties and events, my mom and her friends would have me apply their make-up just at the age of seven, and I realized this is something I really enjoyed creatively. Creating and being around Contemporary Art heavily influences my make-up practice.  From thinking about how palettes and materials work together, to the physical application of pigment is so painterly.”

What inspires you, where do you draw inspiration from?  We noticed Stephen Hawking on your Insta, who inspires you?

“In my opinion, everyone’s view of the world is very different up to the point where my blue could be your green. I think how different people view our world is what has shaped and shifted basic human knowledge and understanding. Whether it be philosophers, artists, scientist, or famous mathematicians; had they not shared their personal world [inside of their head] with the public, our universe would lack so much color and expansiveness.”

“I am really inspired by the artists Will Cotton, Marilyn Minter, Marc Dennis, and Richard Phillips due to their fine craft. Currently I’m hooked on this brilliant Italian artist Paola Pivi. I think the mind and methods behind her works are beautiful.”

“I am also really inspired by trends in decades. I love the 60’s, especially Edie Sedgwick, and I also am fascinated with 18th Century aesthetic. Adding contemporary palettes to an old time period is really fun for me.”

Ornamentation on an anthropological level exists throughout human history, what is the role of make-up in society in your opinion?

“Makeup is a form of self expression. It also allows people the ability to enhance their natural beauty by using different color palettes, glitter, symbols and light diffusion.”

What is your dream commission as a make-up artist?  Is it cinema, is it runway, etc;

“I feel like my work is multi-faceted, so I would be thrilled to work in film or runway, but my dream project would be any form of collaboration or work with Ve Neill [of Beetlejuice and Hunger Game fame] one day. She is an extremely powerful woman in the makeup industry who’s work has influenced me since I was a little kid.”

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What trends do you love in make-up and obversely what do you dislike?  Favourite brands? Favourite makeup artists?

“My favorite trend in makeup is a basic cat eye with a red lip. I usually never leave my house without a cat eye. It’s a classic yet sexy look. I’m also really into the 60’s makeup trends. I think the big brows, dark sculpted eyes and dramatic lashes is a very feminine and playful look. I also love drag makeup. I’ve learned some of the best techniques through the drag community when I was living in London.”

“I’m not a huge fan of the heavy contour look, or any kind of makeup that covers freckles. I think makeup should always enhance one’s natural and inner beauty.”

“My favorite makeup artist in the beauty industry of all time is Charlotte Tilbury, that is a person I would also love to work with. In the special effects realm my favorite artist is Ve Neill. Pertaining to music, it is hard for me to pin down a favorite band, but my favorite musician is Marilyn Manson. I think he is brilliant, and a walking piece of art. There’s so much more to him than what lays on the surface.”

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What is the relationship between art and fashion?

“Both art and fashion are an extension of an individual’s creativity.  Creating or collecting art is an expression of self, just as fashion is.”

When did you become interested in art?

“From a very young age I have been creating art!  I grew up in a household that not only welcomed creativity, but championed it.  I have always been surrounded by incredible works of contemporary art, and I feel very fortunate that in most cases I know or am friends with the artist that has made them.”

Tell us about your own work as an artist? What projects have you taken part of? What’s your favourite media to work in (other than cosmetics)

“I love working with oil on canvas, and have had private instruction by some incredible artists such as Marc Dennis and Will Cotton. When I was younger, the problems I faced growing up (my personal inner turmoil) created a lot of noise in my head, I started writing poetry at a very young age as an outlet, then began illustrating the emotions behind my poetry and it evolved from there.”

How do you navigate between a cultural patron, an artist, and a muse?

“I don’t see these as being separate parts of my personality.  I think they all relate to each other, and I am just thrilled I can be part of a creative community in all of these capacities. People inspire me on a daily basis, and I feel happy I can inspire others as well.”

How does growing up in a family of art collectors impact your own aesthetic preferences?

“Growing up around some of the best examples of contemporary art is an incredible education.  Not only do I get to learn about new artists, but I am able to study the depth behind the individual behind the work, and learn about the material process of an artist. It also really helped me embrace my individuality as a person, leaving me unafraid to push boundaries with the way I dressed, or wore my makeup. Growing up around art the way I did also inspired me to let go of any fear of being experimental.”

Without any limitations tell us five artists or works of art you’d love to see in your dream collection.

1. One [of] Paola Pivi’s colorful feathered (life size) Polar bears and a piece from her “Zebras” series 
2. One of Marilyn Manson’s water color pieces 
3. Anything by Marc Rothko
4. One of Will Cotton’s Cake Sculptures
5. A Donald Judd “Stacks”

Are you affiliated with any institutions, foundations, or organizations?

“I just moved back to New York City, and am exploring new opportunities. As of right now I am affiliated [with] my family’s foundation. The Phelan Family Foundation believes that all people deserve the opportunity to succeed. To accomplish its mission, the Foundation funds a broad range of causes including education, the arts, health care, military personnel, and vulnerable populations. The Foundation seeks to address community needs at all levels—be it access to clean water, safe shelter and nutritious food, or education and training that unleashes the potential for economic prosperity. It also seeks to effect lasting change and measurable outcomes, while maintaining the Phelans’ sense of compassion and gratitude to the world.”

Having lived in many different places: where is home, literally and philosophically?

“I am currently based in New York, which is where I grew up. New York City is home for me.  I’ve spent time living in London and Los Angeles, but I recently moved back to NYC after finishing a program in special effects makeup on the West coast.  I also spend a lot of time in Palm Beach, FL and Aspen, CO with my family.”

What are some of your favourite places to visit in the world, what shouldn’t we miss?  What are some of your favourite art world or cultural events?

“Every summer I look forward to attending the ArtCrush events for the Aspen Art Museum, an event hosted by my amazing Mother, Amy Phelan. My favorite places I’ve traveled to though are Dubai, Chiang Mai, Jaipur, and Kyoto.”

Follow more of Makenzie Moon Phelan’s adventures on Instagram at:
@Moonefx @Kenziemooner