What do the Duke of Windsor & Ernest Hemingway have in common?

Although the name Edward Green may not be widely known to most, this relatively small English shoemaker produces some of the best quality ready-made shoes available. Crafted in Northampton since 1890, Edward Green shoes have graced the feet of icons, from the Duke of Windsor to author Ernest Hemingway. With unwavering attention to detail and the world’s finest leathers, Edward Green has crafted a quintessentially English style shoe to withstands the tests of time, not only in style but also in durability.

Mr. Edward Green, the firm’s eponymous founder began his shoemaking career at the age of twelve as an apprentice. Driven by ambition and a motto of “excellence without compromise,” Mr. Green sourced the finest materials and assembled a team of the most devoted craftspeople; a philosophy the brand upholds to this day. During the 1930s Edward Green became one of the most significant suppliers of officers’ boots to the British Army. Following a period of relative anonymity, the Green family sold the business, and despite some challenging years the brand found its way into the hands of John Hlustik, who is widely credited with Edward Green’s spiritual revival and surge in recent popularity.

THE GALWAY
IN BURGUNDY SUEDE AND
CORDOVAN ON THE 82 LAST

Now run by Hlustik’s partner, Hillary Freeman, Edward Green produces a range of popular models coveted around the globe. Still focused on Goodyear welted shoes, some of the brand’s most iconic models include the Dover, a split toe Derby style shoe and the Galway, a unique boot which is capable of rough terrain, but equally suitable for wear in town. Today over sixty skilled artisans work away to turn out about 350 pairs of shoes per week from their workshop in Northampton.

Edward Green offers a range of widths and last shapes to allow customers to select a superior fit and a style to suit their preferences. With options that include the chiseled 890 last and conservative 202 last, Edward Green produces a range of styles to suit many tastes. And if the website, shop, or retailer doesn’t have exactly what you’re looking for, there’s a good chance you can order it through Edward Green’s custom made program. In our experience, this tailor made process takes 6 months to a year and allows you to select from a range of patterns, lasts, and leathers to ensure a pair that suits your foot as well as your personality.

THE DOVER
IN UTAH LEATHER

Shoes from Edward Green often enjoy a unique patina delivered through a hand finishing process to the workshop’s finest French and Italian calfskin. Another highlight of craftsmanship often overlooked are the leather soles of many Edward Green shoes, which are oak barked tanned for nine months to deliver superior comfort and longstanding durability.

Edward Green shoes are available for men and women and have a starting price from 390 GBP for slippers, but expect to pay at-least somewhere between 900 and 1,300 GBP for a typical pair of Goodyear welted shoes. Edward Green shoes are available from their website (www.edwardgreen.com) as well as their own shops in London and Paris; in addition to locally at J. Lawrence Khakis of Carmel on Ocean Avenue.

Images courtesy of: Edward Green

Comfortability in The Workplace: Hybrid Suit Joggers

Since the wave of COVID-19 shutdowns that brought the world screeching to a halt, a large majority of the workforce is still working from home. In fact, some companies, such as Aetna, Facebook, and Mastercard are allowing employees to remain working remotely well into the new year. So the question is, what does one wear while working from home? A recent survey showed that 60% of Americans wear casual attire during the workday while 17% are reported wearing an appropriate top, but sweatpants on the bottom (this figure is 49% when taking video calls). A huge influx of people have already begun working from home, so does this mean the age of the traditional suit has entered into a new era?

With the suit being on the cusp of contemporary change as a result of the lock-down, where relaxation and convenience are prioritized, jogger suits and sweatpants have been on the rise in popularity for at-home work hours. Men wear sweatpants at work because simply, they are much more comfortable than the average suit trouser. Fashion labels are approaching this problem quite differently. Brunello Cucinelli, the luxury Italian label known for its cashmere-wool sweaters, has a luxurious cotton wool jogger in their closet. These sweatpants allow a man to feel comfortable, yet somewhat elegant due to the high quality materials used and the expert craftmanship of the brand.

But what if you don’t want to wear sweatpants, and instead you’re looking to wear suit pants that keep the comfort level of the jogger? The hybrid suit-jogger is your answer. These pants are not new to the men’s fashion scene, in fact, they have been around streetwear labels for several years now. Accessible labels and outlets such as Zara, H&M, and ASOS have had this style of pants for quite some time. However, due to the recent uptick in working from home styles and the versatility of the suit changing, tailors and high-end labels are answering the call for the luxurious, comfortable suit-inspired jogger. A glance at the “New Arrivals” for many well-known tailors and fashion houses and you will certainly see some style of “smart trouser” or “jogging chino.”

At first, the Banks Slim Fit Pinstripe Wool Pants (BOSS) looks like a standard pinstripe suit pant with a pleated front; however, at the waist, the pants are held not by a zipper and button but jogger drawstring. BOSS describes the pants as, “A modern jogger style and drawstring waist add a sporty touch to pinstriped pants cut from pure wool.” Reminiscent of their pinstripe suit, these joggers are modern, sporty, and perfect to work from home in.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s High Performance Wool Joggers are described as “sporty-chic” and “exceptionally comfortable.” For a brand known and loved for its sharp suits, they smoothly incorporate the unique style of their suits into a laidback and casual take on the suit jogger hybrid. Like the BOSS pants, they look like the average pair of suit pants, with a tapered silhouette and are made with a performance fabric for optimal comfort.

Also stepping into the game with their Sydney Trousers is Brioni. The trousers have a slim leg taper similar to most joggers with a black and grey wool checkered pattern one might see on a suit. As Brioni describes, the pants bring a “touch of nonchalant elegance to any casual attire.” These pants might feel and look like joggers, yet they give you a touch of sartorial elegance commonly felt when wearing their beautifully tailored suits.

Has the suit stepped into a new era where suit joggers have integrated with business apparel and claimed the moniker of “business casual?” Professionalism is synonymous with a fine fitting suit, but the fresh look of the hybrid suit jogger has caused a storm in the home workplace. In a time where people are working from home with increased flexibility, it may not seem as important to stay sharp at all moments of the day. However, fashion and class never falls out of style, yet comfort is also king; and for that reason, it will certainly not be surprising to see more high-end brands and tailors release their take on the suit jogger hybrid.

Featured Image Courtesy of: Brioni.com

Talking style with the one and only Paul Feig

During these unprecedented times we are very pleased to inform you that we were recently given the privilege of interviewing one of Hollywood’s most stylish men. Allow us to introduce you to Paul Feig, well known for his box office hits such as A Simple Favor, Ghostbusters: Answer the Call, and Bridesmaids. Feig is a gifted actor, writer, director and producer whose style is much more old Hollywood than any leading man often seen on today’s red carpet. Regularly dressed in bespoke English suits and shoes, Feig’s style is both sensible and entirely exciting.

We don’t know a man who wouldn’t benefit from Feig’s tasteful philosophy and his quintessentially brilliant humor. Read on to learn how Feig developed his one of a kind wardrobe, love of watches and his exciting new Gin.

Is there a certain place or moment that you trace the start of your sartorial journey to?

“It was a combo of things.  When I was a kid, I was an only child and close with my mom.  And so we used to watch old movies from the 1930s and 40s together.  I was always so taken by how great Cary Grant and Fred Astaire, as well as most other men in the films, looked in their clothes.  I loved the scenes at the old dinner clubs where everyone was in tuxedos and gowns.  Cary Grant in ‘His Girl Friday’ gave me an obsession for double-breasted suits.  I also loved all the three-piece suits you’d see guys in, with their watch chains and pocket silks.  Then, one day I was reading a biography about Groucho Marx, who was my comedy hero, and it said that he never trusted men who didn’t dress well.  That was all the prodding I needed to decide that I too had to dress well all the time.  So, it wasn’t a far jump to decide I would dress like the guys I admired in the movies.  My decision to wear suits was decided then and there at the tender age of eight.“

When you began building your current wardrobe, what were some of the first pieces that found their way into it and why?

“I had (and still have) an obsession with Ralph Lauren.  He always seemed to be influenced by the same things that I was.  He had such a classic American style that seemed many times to be torn right out of those old Cary Grant movies I loved so much.  And so I started buying Ralph pretty exclusively.  Since I had also developed a love for the suits of the 1950s and 60s because of early James Bond movies and comedians like Lenny Bruce as well as the Rat Pack, when Ralph launched the now defunct Black Label line of thinner fitting suits with narrower lapels I went wild, buying as many as I could.  (When they went on sale, that is!)  But then in 2011 when I was living in London developing a film, Eric Fellner, one of the heads of Working Title, gifted me a bespoke suit from Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row because he saw that I only ever wore suits to work.  This created a whole new (and rather pricey) obsession for me.  Simply put, once you put on a truly bespoke suit made to your exact measurements it’s very hard to look back.  It then lead me to expand out to a newer bespoke tailoring house in London called Thom Sweeney, as well as getting wonderful made-to-measure suits from the Italian designer Isaia.  But I still have pretty much all my old Ralph Lauren suits and thanks to my wonderful tailor, Mario of Beverly Hills, I have been able to have them re-tailored and brought up to speed so that they are happily back in rotation in my closet.”

Do you believe that your personal style has evolved over the years? If so, how?

“I have definitely gone from classic style in the 1970s that still had a heavy disco influence to it to 1950s style suits to English traditional to Italian sprezzatura and even had about a decade where my style was everything from Willi Wear unstructured suits with rolled up sleeves and bolo ties to vintage bowling shirts with baggy pants and Converse All-Stars to Hawaiian shirts and shorts.  But I always made sure to have a style.  I never want to make anybody feel bad about how they dress but to me the worst thing you can do to yourself is to not have a style.  It doesn’t have to be fashionable and frankly it really shouldn’t be because then you’re just following trends and being led around by the wallet by the fashion industry.  It should just be your way of telling the world “This is who I am.”  Because like it or not, we’re all judged every day on our appearance, whether we like it or not.  It’s up to us once we meet people to show who we really are in human interaction, and there are plenty of times in life where outer appearance doesn’t match what’s on the inside at all.  But why not use your appearance to help people know who you are right off the bat?  You’ll look great and you’ll feel better about yourself.  I guarantee it.“

When it comes to dressing, do you employ any particular philosophy?

“I personally want to make sure the world knows that while I like to dress up, I’m also not some stodgy old lawyer who doesn’t have a sense of humor and fun about myself.  So, I always try to throw in items that keep a suit from being just a suit.  Fun colored pocket silks, ties that stand out, silk boutonnieres and happy looking socks are all things I use to set myself apart from the world of men who have to wear suits everyday for work.  So many guys seem to be at odds with their suits and it’s clear that they can’t wait to take them off when they get home.  I want the world to see that I enjoy wearing a suit and that I do it because I choose to.  I think it shows not only who I am but also a respect for the world around me, especially when I’m at work.  As a film director and producer, I’m so lucky to be able to work with so many talented people.  When I’m in meetings or on the set or in the editing room, I’m the captain of the ship that is my movie.  And so I want to dress the part.  I always say that if I got on a ship and the captain was wearing sweat pants, I’d get off the ship.  Getting dressed is about respect for yourself, respect for others and respect for the world around you.  And if you just happen to look better when you do it, then that’s an extra win!“

What is your personal opinion when it comes to deciding between acquiring or commissioning a Bespoke, RTW, or MTM garment?

“I have very sloping shoulders and so as much as I love ready to wear, they always require a lot of alterations.  The shoulders of a suit are so much the main structure of a suit jacket that there’s only so much most tailors can do to make it fit perfectly.  I abhor shoulder pads and so to avoid doing that, it’s usually a pretty big undertaking to get an off the rack suit to fit me correctly.  It’s why I took so enthusiastically to bespoke.  The problem as we all know is that it’s very expensive.  The upside is a bespoke suit pretty much lasts forever.  The tailors always make sure to leave enough fabric in every seam that if you gain weight they can let it out and keep your fit right.  But the best part about an expensive suit is it puts you on what I call the Tailoring Diet, which means that if you start to gain weight and your most expensive suit starts to get tight, it’s the greatest motivation to lose weight.  And if you do lose too much, they can always tailor your suit smaller!  That’s what we call a win/win!

What I like about made-to-measure is that you get the bespoke experience but for not quite as much money.  It’s still not cheap, not by a long shot, but it’s also not as astronomical as bespoke can be.  Some of my favorite suits in my collection are my Isaia MTM suits.  They have a true Neapolitan style and fit and are insanely comfortable while looking very cool and Italian.  And once they have your pattern, you can order new suits from whatever new fabrics they come out with.  The same is true for bespoke, but I have found that many times true bespoke takes several more visits to the bespoke house to get just right than the MTMs do.  But either way, you’re going to look great in the final product.  And sometimes that’s worth the extra money.“

I assume this is a rather difficult question, but if you could only have one suit maker, one shirt maker, and one shoemaker for the rest of your life, who would they be and why?

“That is a very tough one, and one I’m not sure I can properly answer.  I think I have to cheat and give you two for each choice.  For suits, it’s a split between Anderson & Sheppard and Isaia.  For shirts, it’s a tie between Anto of Beverly Hills and Budd Shirts in London.  And for shoes, I love George Cleverly shoes (in particular their Churchill style that has fake laces and elastic vents on the side so that they are basically loafers that look like laced-dress shoes) and Salvatore Ferragamo shoes.  I find that there are certain brands that just fit your specific foot better and so it’s a bit of a trial and error with different brands to find the ones that seem to be made for your shape of foot.  Don’t be afraid to try on many brands before deciding what to buy.  That’s what stores are there for!“

Where do you look for sartorial inspiration?

“Where don’t I look?  For me, style inspiration is everywhere.  I watch old movies, look in magazines, look through photography books and for the most part really observe the people around me.  It’s why I love traveling to other countries to see how the men who dress actually dress.  I’ve found inspiration in every country I’ve ever been in.  Most times it’s not even a complete look I’m inspired by.  It’s usually a detail I see.  A way of tying a tie, the unusual fit of someone’s jacket and pants, a piece of jewelry or adornment on their clothes or self, or some bit of odd sprezzatura I would never have thought of.  I like to collect these ideas and then try them for myself.  But not every look and idea works on every person the same.  I’ve seen guys who look amazing in a specific look but then when I try it I look ridiculous.  Style is very personal and it has to match who you are in total.  It’s why I always say the main thing you have to do when you try a new style is to not just look at your body when you look in the mirror but to then look at your head on top of those clothes.  I’m not saying you shouldn’t take chances.  You always should.  But you will know in your heart if you’re trying to dress too young for who you are, or too cool for who you are, or if it’s simply not working for you.  If you’re on the fence, then go with it.  But if you feel at all like something’s not right, or it’s not sending the message you want to send to the world, then don’t buy it, and look for the thing that makes you feel great.“

In addition to your fantastic clothing collection, you are also quite the watch connoisseur. With that said, how did you initially become interested in the world of horology?

“I feel like as men we have so few options for adornment.  Women’s style and fashion seems to have a million different looks, especially when it comes to dressing up.  But for guys, if you’re a traditionalist like me, all we really have is the suit.  I’ve never been a fan of too much experimentation with the cuts and styles of suits.  (Just say no to the Nehru jacket and its never-ending quest to come back into style.) Again, it’s fine if you’re young and cool but for most guys traditional suits just work.  And so all we can really do is play with our ties, silks, boutonnières and cufflinks.  But watches are something we can really have some fun with.  Also, I just love that they are these little machines that we wear on our wrists.  The work, craftsmanship and genius that goes into making something so small, that is so complicated and accurate, will never cease to amaze me.  It doesn’t mean you need a bunch of watches.  But once you get the fever, it’s sort of hard to stop at just one.  I love things that I can have on me that are both functional, but that also make me happy when I look at them.  Being in the middle of a stressful day and looking down at a watch that I love is sort of a man’s security blanket.  Or, at least it is for me!“

How would you explain the relationship between your watch collection and wardrobe?  

“I try to make sure that they work together.  I have some watches that are big sports watches and so putting that on with an elegant suit for a night out at a nice restaurant always feels wrong to me.  I never want the watch to overpower the suit and cuff.  For formal wear, a smaller profile watch is the way to go.  That, or simply no watch.  It’s okay to go without one occasionally because, like it or not, we always have our phones on us to check the time.  But I’d never want the clock on my phone to make my watches obsolete.  Watches are about telling time but they’re also about appreciating precision and craftsmanship.  They’re like works of art on your wrist.“

Is there a grail watch that you’ve been coveting? 

“That’s such a hard one.  There’s so many I’d love to have.  But I guess if I had to snap my fingers and a watch would magically appear, it would be a Richard Mille.“

Where can we follow you?

“You can find me on both Twitter and Instagram at @paulfeig.  Also, for the foreseeable future you can join me every day on my Instagram live feed for Quarantine Cocktail Time at 5pm PST/8pm EST and then streaming on replay for the next 24 hours after that.  Hope to see you there!

I also have my very own gin rolling into stores as we speak.  It’s called Artingstall’s Brilliant London Dry Gin and its already won Best Gin and Double Gold at the 2019 Worldwide Spirits Wholesalers Association competition and been awarded a 94 from The Tasting Panel magazine.“

Featured Image Credit: Jamie Ferguson provided courtesy of 42West

From Dior to Berluti – Men’s Fall Winter 2020-2021 Collections

Paris Fashion Week Shows by Givenchy, Loewe, Berluti, Dior and Louis Vuitton highlighted a myriad range of fresh menswear. From the audacious to the practical; read on for an in depth look at some of this seasons most prominent menswear shows.

First and foremost we start off with a look at Givenchy’s collection, described as ‘lavish hedonism inspired by India‘ by parent company LVMH. Givenchy Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller gathered inspiration for the collection from Yashwant Rao Holkar II, the 14th Maharajah of Indore who moved to Los Angeles in the 1930s. The Maharajah who lived from 1908 to 1961 was well known for his eccentric tastes in clothing, which often consisted of traditional Indian or Western garb covered in an abundance of pearls, gemstones and precious metals. Distinct embroidery delivered on a canvas of overcoats, double breasted blazers, and slim suits are a staple in this year’s collection. Square toe boots and oversize sweaters along with the the Antigona Soft carry-all bag were also prominent aspects of Keller’s designs.

Loewe’s Fall/Winter collection spearheaded by Creatuve Director Jonathan Anderson is described by LVMH as ‘materials magnified by the opulence of shapes.’ Where textures and forms take center stage, satin and double face wool are paired in the most spectacular of fashions. The cut of the cloth gives a shape that is opulence in the purest of forms. Giant bags, cape style coats, and army shorts that appear like shorts are all hallmarks of the Loewe Fall/Winter 20/21 collection.

Berluti, the house that’s magical patinas give birth to the world’s most spectacular leather creations, has not disappointed with their collection debuted in the historic Opera Garnier. The show is best described as a ‘Generational dialogue’ where Berluti continues to evolve by boasting their tailoring skills alongside their mastery of shoe-making. Artistic director Kris Van Assche has assembled a collection where historic and modern can coexistence in an enhanced environment. The most eye catching creation? Berluti’s trademark patina leather suit. Additional highlights were made up of Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and herringbone suits and odd jackets. This also includes an assortment of leather outerwear, weekend bags, small leather goods and trunks, in addition to a shoe care kit developed in collaboration with British luggage-manufacturer Globe-Trotter.

Dior’s Artistic Director Kim Jones payed homage to designer and stylist Judy Blame with the house’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection. With a blend of ‘timeless elegance’ the collection draws on 1980’s London and one of the town’s most fabled characters, Judy Blame, who’s DIY style accessory designs are legendary. Blame, who was born Christopher Barnes, “changed his name to Judy Blame; “Judy” was a nickname given to him by designer Antony Price, and the surname “Blame” was suggested by Scarlett Cannon, a hairdresser friend.^” It has been said that he selected a female name in order to bewilder others. On the subject of Blame Jones it is stated, “Her love of couture was an inspiration to us all.”

The shapes and silhouettes of pieces in the collection show fashion as a process rather than a particular outcome. In a nod to Blame’s DIY style, the Dior logo features a safety pin and the renowned Dior Oblique pattern stars in a range of beaded embroideries. Dark blues and grays excite the imagination and pleats ‘reference flou and tailoring techniques.’ Decorating patterns are displayed in immense quantities and draw inspiration from the toile de jouy motif that decorated Christian Dior’s first boutique. A new motif/pattern designed specially for the Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection in collaboration with the Trust Judy Blame Foundation titled “Toile de Judy” was a special highlight.

Last, but certainly not least, Maison Louis Vuitton showed their extraordinary classicism coupled with freshness in their Fall Winter 2020-2021 menswear collection. Artistic Director Virgil Abloh broke free of Louis Vuitton’s popular street-wear image with ” a study of the evolving anthropology of the suit.” Abloh focuses on the silhouette, reaching beyond traditional ideas associated with the men’s suit. The designs deliver a collection that is a “symbol of craft and creativity, magnified by lionized sculptures of the artisan’s traditional tools on the catwalk.”

Images courtesy of LVMH, Featured Image Credit: © Dior

Kiton’s New Palm Beach Boutique Stuns With Clean Lines And Bright Patterns

Kiton’s newest boutique, located in the winter hot spot of Palm Beach, Florida, has been wowing shoppers since their opening in September of last year. Situated within The Royal Poinciana Plaza, this boutique focuses on Menswear, Womenswear, and the KNT urban wear project, in addition to offering a dedicated in-store area for Kiton’s bespoke service.

With over 2,000 square feet of floor-space the boutique offers ample room to display the brand’s innovative creations that blend tailoring with textile manufacturing. The modular design of the store is meant to usher in Kiton’s new ideology for their boutique floor-plans, which focus on ‘a continuous series of interchangeable modules and components that can easily be integrated.’ This new design style is meant to allow for endless customization to keep the store looking fresh. Walnut furniture with brass detailing along with Kiton’s proprietary fabric home textiles and artworks from Kiton Founder Ciro Paone’s private collection complete the boutiques decor.

“I’m very proud of our deep connection with American customers, who appreciate our mission of elegance and superior quality. This motivates us to continue to invest in new projects in the country”, said Kiton CEO Antonio De Matteis.

Now boasting over 50 years in business, Kiton is most well regarded for their exceptional quality ready to wear tailoring and exclusive fabrics, crafted from pure vicuña, Guanaco, cashmere, wool and fine silk. The Palm Beach location marks 51 stores in Kiton’s portfolio and their 20th point of sale destination in the United States

Image courtesy of: Kiton

Ermenegildo Zegna x Maserati: When Iconic Fabrics Make Automotive History

On August 7th, the Italian luxury vehicle manufacturer Maserati unveiled their latest collection of 100 limited production Quattroporte S Q4 GranLusso sedans and Levante S GranSport SUVs with an exclusive PELLETESSUTA™ interior by Ermenegildo Zegna, an Italian luxury menswear house, at Monterey Car Week. Having partnered previously with Zegna’s innovative design of silk interiors, two Italian-based companies are entering a new phase of exploring modern manifesto of a luxury experience together. 

For the 100 limited edition Maseratis presented during Monterey Car Week, 50 are Quattroporte S Q4 GranLusso sedans. Quattroporte has been the flagship of the company since Series I, the then fastest sedan in the world as it was introduced in 1963. The other 50 are levante S GranSport SUVs, which are the latest versions of the legendary Levante, the first SUV in the long history of Maserati. These vehicles will be available for order on a first-come-first-served basis and delivered to customers as early as spring 2020. 

The most distinguished feature of the new collection is the use of PELLETESSUTA™ leather. The innovative use of thin strips of nappa leather woven in place like thick yarn help to create light, soft, and enduring leather surfaces that are unique and iconic. The muted woven surface of the interior along with the versatile knitting technique highlights the unique, chic style of Maserati: steady and timeless. Aside from the special offering from Zegna, both Quattroporte and Levante are equipped with refreshing features like blue brake calipers and sports seats for the Quattroporte, and black brake calipers and 21” polished Helios rims for Levante. 

There’s no doubt that the collaboration between Ermenegildo Zegna and Maserati is a one-of-a-kind campaign. With distinctive radiator grilles in the front and streamlined silhouettes, the collections of Maserati stand out as a stunning representation of power and strength, which is also implied by its badge: The Trident. Zegna, on the other hand, showcases the beauty of Italian manufacturing by deploying high-quality natural fibers, directly from their country of origin. Devoted business partners as they are, Zegna’s objective on redefining masculinity as a state of mind echoes with Maserati’s long-lasting appeal to their owners for courage and fearlessness. 

For more information visit www.maseratiusa.com

Images Courtesy of: Maserati North America

How a Bourbon King influenced ISAIA’s S/S 2020 Collection

Famed Mens Clothier ISAIA unveiled their stunning Summer 2020 collection on June 15th in Milan at the Palazzo della Triennale. In true Neapolitan fashion, ISAIA is paying respect to its home city of Naples by supporting the
National Museum of Capodimonte. The Museum, which is under the patronage of ISAIA, is currently in the process of being renovated.

The museum is housed in an eighteenth-century palace on the Capodimonte hill. The palace, which has long served as a repository of Neapolitan artwork, was constructed for King Charles III of Spain, who ascended to the throne in the year 1734. Charles III inherited a significant collection of art from his Italian mother, Elisabetta Farnese. The Farnese family collection was initiated by Pope Paul III, in the 1500s. Significant holdings among the Farnese family collection that now reside within the museum’s hands include works by masters, such as Simone Martini and Tino da Camaino, Colantonio, Raffaello, Michelangelo, Tiziano, Breughel, Carracci, and Caravaggio.

One of the most exceptional aspects of the palace is its Rococo style rooms, which include a Chinese Salon crafted entirely of porcelain. Capodimonte has seen many changes in its long history, from conversions in use, to movements of contents: this residence has witnessed it all. Following Bourbon ownership, the estate passed through the hands of the House of Savoy.

Well, we assume you are now asking yourself ‘what does this palace have to do with ISAIA’s most recent collection?’ In honor of Capodimonte, ISAIA has titled their S/S 2020 release the “Capodimonte Collection,” in honor of the majestic palace. The Colours, which are well pronounced in the collection, are reminiscent of the grand residence. Whether you’re the kind of gentleman that desires solids or pastels, you will be pleased to know that your next garment has taken influence from masterpieces in one of Italy’s finest museums.

Highlights of this collection abound in casual wear, including well-tailored jeans, madras sport shirts, and polo shirts; in addition to sporting trousers that feature boat shaped pockets and elegantly tapered lines. The polo shirts stand out with their exposed seams that reinforce the garment’s fabric, and handmade buttonholes leave little to be desired. Other standout details amongst the collection include pieces that display prominent glass buttons and the new sail feature with coral thread that is more like tailored stitching.

With our attention returning to the museum’s art work, we can’t help but notice the palace’s Flemish tapestries, which solidify the victory of Charles V at the Battle of Pavia in 1525. This work is adapted into the S/S 2020 collection’s elegant dinner jackets. Last, but certainly not least, the undercollars of ISAIA’s S/S 2020 jackets are meant to pay homage to the Capodimonte’s ‘rococo cherubs that peek through golden stuccoes and frescoes.’

Images courtesy of: ISAIA

For more information, please visit: www.isaia.it

Paris Fashion Week without Karl Lagerfeld: now what?

For many decades, Karl Lagerfeld has been widely regarded as one of the most influential individuals in the world of fashion. With an outstanding trajectory, Lagerfeld was acclaimed by many as a design genius.

The fashion industry just lost a major icon and idol after the Kaiser of fashion, Karl Lagerfeld passed away on February 19th. Lagerfeld, who had been the creative director of Chanel since 1983, left a legacy of ideals in fashion for future generations. Lagerfeld was born to a wealthy German entrepreneur father and a Swedish mother in 1933. The future designer studied drawing and history at the prestigious Lycee Montaigne in Paris. After working on several sketches to submit to design competitions, he won first place for a coat design alongside Yves Saint Laurent, another fashion icon. Forward past the competition, the young Lagerfeld was hired as an assistant to Pierre Balmain. After three years of direct experience in the fashion industry, he later moved to Jean Patou, where he captained the design of several collections. In 1964, Lagerfeld began designing for Chloé, in which he rapidly moved from designing a few pieces onto a full collection. A couple of years after, in 1967, his long-lasting collaboration with Fendi began.

Lagerfeld’s multi-faceted personality combined with this great talent, created some of the most innovative and impactful collections and trends in the fashion industry. He founded his eponymous label under his own name in 1984, which is now known as one of the most exclusive and acclaimed brands worldwide. Lagerfeld’s creativity couldn’t have been secluded to fashion, he was also an artist at heart and was passionate about photography and film-making. Besides this, Lagerfeld owned several bookstores in Paris and had written many personal pieces as well. His extravagant personality has often left an impactful positive mark on the individuals that crossed his path or were privileged enough to have been mentored by this well-known fashion icon. Following his passing, Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH commented  “I will always remember his immense imagination, his ability to conceive new trends for every season, his inexhaustible energy, the virtuosity of his drawings, his carefully guarded independence, his encyclopedic culture, and his unique wit and eloquence. The death of this dear friend deeply saddens me, my wife and my children. We loved and admired him deeply. Fashion and culture has lost a great inspiration.”

Even though Lagerfeld was born in Germany, he has been associated with Paris for most of his life, the world’s fashion capital. It is undeniable that Lagerfeld’s mark on the fashion industry will never be forgotten, and many people have expressed their deep condolences and admiration toward what is now a legend among the world’s most acclaimed lost fashion idols. Alain Wertheimer, CEO of CHANEL, said: “Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the House of CHANEL’s success throughout the world. Today, not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand.”

Featured Image Credit: Siebbi

The Art of Tailoring: The Neapolitan Cut

The Italians have always been innovators in the art of tailoring that takes the individuality and traditional style of sartorial elegance to an even higher level.  Something that is misunderstood more often than not is that a Neapolitan cut greatly diverges itself from a Milan cut.  This may not seem to be that big of a deal to some people, but it is definitely worlds apart for those who embrace the art of tailoring that the Italians, the Masters of the Cut, had long since regarded as tradition.

Clothing is the embodiment of one’s own character, the city it was created in, and the mood the wearer desires their garments to express; and as such, the difference of the cut has a significant emphasis on.  The Milan cut, which reflects the North, can be identified by either a signature blue or gray tone suit, whereas the Neapolitan cut of the South in Naples, where the cloth is always a statement, an exquisite expression continually meets the eyes.  We are honored to introduce the following three renowned Italian tailors of the Neapolitan cut , who have at least over 70 years of foundation, as well as express several points of interest to the well dressed and (well groomed) sophisticated gentleman.

Cesare Attolini Fall/Winter 2018-2019
Photo Courtesy of: Cesare Attolini

Cesare Attolini Fall/Winter 2018-2019
Photo Courtesy of: Cesare Attolini

Cesare Attolini

Ceasre Attolini’s signature and classic unstructured sports coats, which symbolizes the one of a kind style of Napoli, will always remain timeless.  The founder, the late Vincenzo Attolini, who was inspired by the English cut, but never cared for the jacket’s padding, envisioned a more refined silhouette.  Vincenzo Attolini’s grandsons, Massimiliano and Giuseppe, are  presently running the family business, in which they now offer a variety of high-end fabrics to create a very expressive line-up of jackets.  They are famous for their stylish three-button sports coats with a high armhole, which creates a roped shoulder.

For more information visit:  CesareAttolini.com

KITON Uomo SS18
Photo Courtesy of: KITON

KITON Uomo SS18
Photo Courtesy of: KITON

KITON

Established in 1956 by Ciro Paone, Kiton pioneers the best and most luxurious performance materials on the market. Their Neapolitan cut sports coats are well rounded lapel roll that can only be made by hand. Kiton specializes in exquisitely handmade tailored clothing, using only the best of fine and rare fabrics, such as Vicuna and baby Cashmere

For more information visit:  KITON.it

Isaia Spring/Summer 2018 lookbook
Photo Courtesy of: ISAIA

Isaia Spring/Summer 2018 lookbook
Photo Courtesy of: ISAIA

ISAIA

This traditional Italian tailor in particular took the fashion industry like a VOLCANO, when its creator, Gianluca Isaia, displayed his eccentric yet refined sense of style.  This fashion icon was almost always seen in patterned suits with vivid colors and a pair of trademark red flip-flops. Isaia’s specialty is the Neapolitan cut in an array of very colorful and very distinctive suits and sport coats.

For more information visit:  ISAIA.it

Featured Image Courtesy of:  Cesare Attolini

An Interview With Alex Assouline

Alex Assouline carries himself differently than most people his age. At first impression, it takes a second to remember that he’s only in his mid-twenties. When I met him in his office one afternoon, he greets me in a three piece suit, immediately apologizing for making me wait an extra three minutes. He’s had a busy day, he explains. I, however, hadn’t even noticed those three minutes as, sitting in the lobby, I’m intrigued by the gorgeous coffee table books that surround me. Highlighted in a striking red, all-encompassing book case, the titles catch my attention. Dior. Chanel. Bentley. Vintage Cars. Up next, he tells me, is a book with design family Missoni. But, it’s not the book you’d expect: it’s a cookbook. It’s unique, and it’s on brand with Assouline, the publishing company Alex’s parents started that records culture in an elegant, timeless way.

Our conversation took us through some of that culture, with more upcoming additions to the Assouline catalogue, his passion project, and his fashion inspirations.

For those of us who are not already familiar with your family’s publishing house, give us an introduction to Assouline and your role within the company.

“So Assouline is a nearly 25 year old coffee table book publisher. We specialize in books about art, lifestyle and culture. I joined a few years ago after working in consulting. I’m now the director of marketing, and I work a lot on interior design, where I curate libraries, especially in New York.”

Other than the Missoni book, can you tell us what’s coming up for you? 

“I’m working on a fantastic book on [Azzedine] Alaia, who passed away a few months ago. It’s a very dear project to me because he was my godfather. We’re working on a special edition as well, leather bound with three different covers. It’s going to be a good homage.”

Tell me about the process of curating a library.

“So I started that a few months ago as an organic extension of what I was doing, but just on the side. So I met with a friend of mine for lunch and she was working on a building with her family as well, and she was just saying that she needed a space where–she needed a library, you know? She needed a space where people could just sit down and unplug from everything and feel safe and troubles with their minds are gone. And it just was a perfect fit, so I started one there, at The Shephard with the Naftali Group. Then I started having some requests, from word of mouth, and then started to structure it as a part of the business. So I go to a very specific place, whether it’s a hotel, restaurant, office, apartment or amenities for a library building, I just study the place, the neighborhood, the tenants, who goes there and their interests, and after a few days or weeks I just come up with something. A little drawing, a proposition. It’s a passion at this point.”

I can tell. 

“It’s my own thing. Something I developed that I’m happy about and proud of. It’s kind of the extension, when you have a family business, that you need to find your area to develop, while still being in the family business. And I found it, so I can have my own thing on the side.”

So let’s talk about style. Do you have a style philosophy? Do you have some icons you look up to? 

“I just saw a documentary on Gianni Agnelli. It absolutely changed my philosophy of fashion. It was so interesting because this guy was super well dressed, and he wasn’t scared of going his own way and his own style. Like putting the watch over the cuff, for example. And he did it in such a stylish way, that’s very inspiring. There’s no real boundary that you have to set for your style.

I like to wear suits. I feel good in a suit, I feel comfortable in a suit, which may sound a bit not genuine, but to me I really feel comfortable. You need to present yourself in a way that people can receive well. It’s an action of respect as well. I keep t-shirts for Sundays.”

Where are some of your favorite places to buy suits? 

“I have the two extremes. I have a tailor in Hong Kong that comes once a year or once every two years. So I just see everything, all the patterns that I can do. I’m very into plaid, so I’m very experimental in that way. So that’s fun. And then, I have a store in Paris where I buy most of my suits called Wicket. I trust them, I know every time I go I’m going to leave with a couple. It’s exactly my taste. In New York, I just buy my shirts at Brooks Brothers. Cufflinks, only vintage and on eBay. And suspenders as well, only on eBay. I have a big collection of suspenders. I’m very proud of it. I used to go on eBay and start betting on crazy suspenders and I would try to get a pair once a week. I cannot stop, but I don’t have space anymore.”

Do you have any brands of suspenders that we would recognize? 

“There’s vintage Ralph Lauren and there’s Trafalgar. These are the only two I find, but when I go to a vintage store or something, I might stumble upon something unusual, but it’s very rare. It’s not really in today’s culture, even to carry in vintage stores.”

Where did your love of suspenders come from? 

“That’s the thing. I didn’t see them anywhere, and I wanted to have something different. I wanted them with different colors, like an accessory that wasn’t something you couldn’t see on everyone. I wanted to build my own identity from that.”

What about timepieces?

“I don’t like extravagant or showy timepieces. I love my Cartier Tank because it’s meaningful to me. I got it when I was 18, and there was a big story behind it. My father, when he was an assistant and he was 18, saw it on his boss at the time in an elevator. And he said, “wow, this is what I want for my son one day.” And he got it for me when I was 18. So I just keep it at all times.”

Take me through a day in your life. 

“I wake up at 6:30 or 7, depending on what I did the night before. Then I jump on my rowing machine for about 20 or 30 minutes. I have to do that every day because it keeps my body moving at all times. It gives me the right energy. Then I have a big glass of water, shower, go to the office, meet with my team around 9 or 9:30. I try to separate my day around the tasks in the aspects of marketing or the library or communications. Mostly, I start with working on the new products we’re going to release–for example, we’re working on bookstands, candles. Then I answer e-mails for partnerships that we’re doing, and work on marketing products for books–how to make the book come to life. And then quick lunch with my parents to debrief about what’s happening in the company. And after that go back to the office, until I finish the day and I take out my pencil and I just draw a library. For a client or just to practice. I leave the office around 7 or 7:30, depending on whether I have a drink with a client, or dinner, which usually happens.”

What’s your favorite drink? 

“I’m in my spicy margarita with salt phase. I don’t know how long that’s going to last. But, usually, I love a pisco sour. It’s a Peruvian drink made of pisco, lime juice, sugar and egg whites and a bit of tabasco.”

What do you feel like is different about New York? 

“What I see the most is the energy and the willingness for people to achieve. That’s a pretty cool trait.”

You can follow Alex on Instagram at @alexassouline and Assouline at @assouline. Assouline is on Twitter at @AssoulinePub.

Featured photo courtesy of: Assouline, by Josh Deveaux.