Hugo Boss Restores Their Lineage of Sartorial Elegance

With news coming from the head of Hugo Boss, the famous German brand has now started a project that drops their luxury branding in order to restore it’s lineage in sartorial refinement for the sophisticated gentleman.  At least this was the idea of new CEO Mark Langer’s first remarks that he made to Handelsblatt, that we have gathered from Channel NewsAsia.  And we thought to ourselves, why would Hugo Boss drop their luxury branding to take up sartorial refinement?  After all sartorial refinement is just another meaning for “luxury”.

Handelsblatt, along with others, have come to all the same conclusion that Langer is in fact referring to the “women’s-wear” part of the business, which grew to an even greater extent under the assiduous watch of previous CEO Claus-Dietrich Lahrs.  Langer might also be hinting to the “luxury everyday” type of aspect for the business, like an art mastered by brands such as: Louis Vuitton, Rolex, or Chanel.

Another way to say this using watch analogy, would be like Hugo Boss was trying to use the Rolex approach, but instead went back to it’s Patek Philippe “desired by many, yet owned by few” kind of approach.  Relatively speaking, this seems like an excellent opportunity.

At the apex of Lahrs’s expansionist system, Hugo Boss opened over 400 stores worldwide, and presently the fashion brand reportedly has more than 6,000 points of sale in a total of 124 countries.  Due to a drawn-out current fall off, the situation became far too much for Lahrs to handle, causing him to resign in February after witnessing sales in the US and China severely decline.

Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2017 “Magic Lanterns” Collection

Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection has been unveiled, showcasing a variety of fresh new designs featuring cool edgy vibes and a totally chic style.  This Gucci collection also represents an imaginative/dream like sense that gives off a simply magical experience.  The Roman designer who was trusted with restoring Gucci’s assets before, has once again returned to assist and aid the fashion brand’s latest collection.

The Spring/Summer 2017 collection entitled “Magic Lanterns”, (according to Michele’s notes) was to create a line in which “the clothes tell a story steeped in wonder, phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy.”  Gowns in the collection were embellished with embroideries, ruffles, and gleaming purple & gold leggings.  Exhibited on themed bags as well as on the back of austere tweedy jackets revealed images of ferocious beasts.  Almost all of the men’s suits boasted three-quarter length pants as the female style sported bell-bottomed trousers.

What inspired this collections hairstyle, with coiffure like that of the 80’s all the way to classical hair styling of Marie Antoinette.  When Michele explained that he was pursuing to “cultivate the unexpected” in his notes.  He accomplished just that, by turning heads with a certainly unexpected style of hair.

But online reactions were not as positive, just like Michele’s earlier collections.  Although, Gucci’s French owners don’t really mind as long as the sales keep going up, which they have been doing regularly under Michele’s creative and expertly done leadership.

For more information visit:  www.gucci.com

Moncler Lunettes Super Stylish Set Of Shades

French apparel manufacturer and lifestyle brand Moncler, has joined forces with the Marconi group in order to create the ultimate set of Moncler Lunettes sunglasses.  This new set of shades was  inspired by 1970’s ski goggles, as they include six style links, the iconic design of Moncler with the gifted capabilities of Marconi’s craftsmanship and ingenuity for an ice cool pair of specs.

The six style’s will appear with an etched metal emblem frame fronts, light detailing around the temples, (which looks like the “boudin” impression on Moncler’s time-honored down jacket) and in an abundant amount of colors, such as red, blue, yellow, brown and black with reversed or reflective lenses.  This new collection by Moncler and Marconi gives you that super stylish look that you could only pull off when your out in snowy weather, snowboarding it out or skiing it up.

The Moncler Lunettes shades will be available all over the globe at Moncler boutiques, concept stores, private department stores and at selected opticians in early October, 2016.

The Brilliant Japanese Shoemaker Yohei Fukuda

Yohei Fukuda is one of the best Japanese bespoke shoemakers or even possibly one of the best bespoke shoemakers in the world.  Creating some of the highest quality shoes on the market, he brings a classic style that makes men, myself included, lust after the opportunity to own even just one of his ultra-high quality creations.  Fukuda was deeply inspired by high quality English bespoke shoe-making and was later persuaded by a friend of his to accompany him to the Tresham Institute in Northamptom, (a comparatively technical accustomed shoe-making school).  Thereafter he began working for George Cleverley’s and Edward Green’s former bespoke departments for some time, until he went back to Japan in 2007 to make his own mark on the industry.  After which he established himself as one of the best master bespoke shoemakers.

Yohei Fukuda is located in the neighborhood of Shibuya in central Tokyo, on the second floor of a high rise building lies his showroom and two more floors above that lie his workshop.  Together with his two apprentices, he creates 60 beautifully constructed pairs a year.  Fakuda’s time in England really inspired his brand, as he adapted style ques from the early 1900’s and given them a modern edge, whilst keeping the old British style and class the same.

Yohei Fakuda classifies his work into four different levels: ordering, as where each pair of shoes are created using the same basics, but with unique modifications of models and lasts.  The levels are as follow:

– Master Styling (Made to Order).  Select model, leather, last (classic round toe or chiseled), and specific details like the waist (bevelled or fiddle waist), heel (square, tapered, Yohei Fukuda heel which is an asymmetric variant), and more.  The price for the Classic Collection models start from €2,300 (280 000 yen), and for Heritage models the price begins around €2,450 (300,000 yen).  Lasted shoe trees are included.

– Master Fitting (semi-bespoke/Made to Measure).  The price is the same as for the Master Styling above with additional price of around €50 (6,000 yen) for each modification that needs to be done.  The total price of the order will be set after you tried on the test shoes and the modifications needed are identified.  Lasted shoe trees are included (the same ones as Master Styling used for the basic lasts).  No fitting is required.

– Master Scratch (limited bespoke).  The standard models are still used and prices are based on the same as the Master styling, but the last is fully adapted to your individual needs.  You could even say that it is bespoke in the area of fitting, MTO regarding choice of model.  Here the test shoes are created and a minimal of one fitting is required. Additions of €500 (60 000 yen) for the creation of lasts, €250 for lasted shoe trees (3,000 yen), which makes for a total price of €3,000 (370,000 yen) for the Classic series, and €3,150 (390,000 yen) for the Heritage model.

– Bespoke (full bespoke). A very special and personal last is made, where you can choose any design of the model, leather, details, etc.  A minimal of one fitting is required.  Base price of €2,450 (300,000 yen), €500 (60,000 yen) for last manufacturing , €325 (40,000 yen) for pattern making, €250 (30,000 yen) for the shoe trees, making the total price start somewhere around     €3,500 (430,000 yen).

You have two options when it comes to obtaining a pair of Yohei Fukuda shoes:  One of the options is by going straight to their shop in Tokyo and purchasing a pair in person, another ways is by visiting one of Mr. Fukuda’s few trunk shows , which only take place at The Armoury in Hong Kong.  Although, because such a vast amount of people are interested in his shoes there is still the possibility that Mr. Fukuda will visit parts of Europe as well as the US, but for now we can only hope that that day is soon.

When selecting details like how you wish the sole to be painted or if/how the brass nail should be put under the heel, etc.  The process is extremely thorough and takes a little over an hour.  In fact, a full bespoke order can take nearly 150 hours if you include the all of the measuring, last making, manufacturing of sample shoes, potential last modification and then final production.  As for the delivery, Fukuda tries to keep it at six months for Master Fitting and Master Styling, or 12 months for Bespoke and Master Scratch.  Unfortunatly with Fukuda’s shoes popularity on the constant rise, delivery time may be even longer than originally anticipated.

When the shoes are finished they are then placed in a fabric dressed box along with two nice shoe bags and cloth, additional shoe laces, and as an added bonus a jar of Saphir Medaille d’Or shoe cream and a tin of wax polish.  The lasted shoe trees are hinged and made of obeche wood, which for the record is extremely light weight.  Mr. Fukuda’s shoes are also very well polished from the get-go, with spit shine made on both the toe and heel.   The sheer amount of quality and workmanship exhibited by Mr. Fakuda, is simply exceptional.

Images Courtesy of: YoheiFukuda

Dunhill’s Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign

Dunhill’s Fall/Winter 2016 campaign is here!  This years campaign is inspired by the always lovely British Countryside and fronted by the ambiguous Guy Robinson.  Set on the Wortham Park estate, (an 18th century country mansion in Hertfordshire) the campaign is shot by John Balsom and styled by Dan May.  Guy Robinson makes for the perfect gentleman and face of Dunhill as he drives a vintage car, walks around the almost endless estate’s grounds, and plays pool.  Covered in this seasons inspired leather blouson and military overcoat, Dunhill has not only completed but also improved the look with luxuriantly plush cashmere embroidery layers underneath, as each piece is flawlessly finished with exemplary British tailoring.

For more information visit:  Dunhills Fall/Winter Collection

Check out:  Dunhills Fall/Winter video

Berluti’s New Creative Director

The fashion industry is abuzz, when news got around that Berluti’s (a subsidiary brand of LVMH) Creative Director, Alessandro Sartori will be leaving to go back to Ermenegildo Zegna.  So LVMH is now on the prowl for a new creative director, and from what I hear, famed Colombian fashion designer, Haider Ackermann may be the one for the job.  It might not be as easy as a label looking for a new creative director, though; in the hopes that Ackermann could immensely boost the label’s pummeling profits.

LVMH is certainly in a pickle, judging by the latest occurrences like when LVMH sold Donna Karan.  And just last year, they sold Marc by Marc Jacobs, and Berluti has even been making a consistent decline in revenue.  Still, nothing has been confirmed, despite the fact that Berluti has already withered an estimated €100-150 million in data via fashion enterprise.

Bally Changes Things Up For Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign

Bally changes things up.  As the legendary fashion house introduces many experienced models like Guinevere van Seenus and young new models like 15-year old Ina Maribo Jensen.  Bally’s all about individuality and diversity, combined with classic up to the minute trends.  The legendary brand showcases a new look for this years Fall/Winter campaign to keep things new and fresh, yet still giving a time-honored sense of style that is always up to date.  Bally, bringing elegance and grace in only the best of ways.

What brings this campaign together is the eight chic models each from different generations, all directed by Design Director Pablo Coppola and shot by Jack Davidson.

For more information visit:  www.bally.com

Check out 2016 Bally Fall/Winter collection video:  YouTube.com/Bally-Fall/Winter

Dolce & Gabbana Release New Sneaker Collection

Dolce & Gabbana have just announced a new product, the #DGLOVES sneakers.  This new collection was the end result of drawing inspiration from nine metropolitan cities, giving Dolce & Gabbana fans new, cool, and slick foot-wear.  Keeping up with trends is a must, so when Dolce & Gabbana showed a hashtag in their new foot-wear collection “#DGLOVES” it was surprising to say the least.  Because that trendy symbol has just about outlived its trendiness, but its not unlike Dolce & Gabbana to take something not and turn it into something hot, as the brand sets fire to the fashion world.

The limited capsule collection will be showcasing a sporting design symbol for each of the nine metropolitan cities, as well as a devoted color hashtag.  One example of this, is the Hong Kong version that reveals the city’s skyline with its exemplary skyscrapers.  There is also a pair created specifically for global citizens, that features a globe patch and the hashtag #DGLOVESYOU instead for a more generic version.  The sneakers will be available for purchase online and it will launch in two months.  Dolce & Gabbana will your wonders never cease to amaze?

For more information visit:  dolcegabbana.com

Canali’s 2016 Fall/Winter Collection Revealed

Canali revealed their 2016 Fall/Winter collection during “Milan Fashion Week” showcasing some very smart and sharp designs.  The collection offers the finest made menswear for the most stylish gentleman.  Creative director Andrea Pompilio said “There is so much of the world that we don’t actually perceive and I wanted to explore this concept for the new season.  As in architecture, every detail, both inside and out, was carefully calculated to craft the perfect balance between practicality and style.” As for his take on the latest event for Canali, while at Milan Fashion Week.

The collection was made out of luxurious finishes like wool, gabardines, pony hair, cotton velvet, and cashmere, the collection also featured check trousers, cableknit sweaters, leather jackets, double-breasted suits, gloves, and slim yet striking scarves that were modeled as neckties during the show.

For more information visit:  www.canali.com

Also you can shop the Canali Fall Winter 2016 Collection at:  Shop MR PORTER

Troubadour’s Weekender Bag Sharp, Stylish, Sensational

Samuel Bail and Abel Samet tried, but could not find what they desired in a weekend bag, so they started making their own.  These two former financiers created “Troubadour” five years ago in London so they could make and offer sharp, stylish, and sensational bags to guys like them, (men that could not find what they desired in a weekend bag).  Abel Samet said “We wanted to make bags that men could take to the office and the gym or on casual weekend getaways.”  Troubadour makes their minimalist bags with vegetable-dyed Italian leather in modest Tuscan workshops, prices for their weekender bag varies, but the weekender above is priced at $793.

For more information visit:  troubadourgoods.com