Loro Piana, Hublot, and Zenith open flagships in Tokyo’s Ginza neighborhood

LVMH has for decades possessed a close relationship with the Japanese consumer. Now with the opening of three new flagship stores in Tokyo’s Ginza district, this bond has only been tightened. With a focus on pairing brands with structures that exude their own identity, these boutiques are sure to provide a top tier shopping experience.

_{Featured image: © Loro Piana}

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All situated in the heart of the Ginza district, the new Loro Piana, Hublot, and Zenith boutiques benefit from increased accessibility and architecturally inclined homes, which match both the identity of their own brands while paying homage to the culture of their host country. For example, the elongated curves of the front façade on the Loro Piana tower are the work of Japanese architect Jun Aoki, who aimed to create a structure that reflects Loro Piana’s “sensual fabric draping.” This project in regards to Loro Piana is particularly fascinating as it’s the first time the brand chose to express their identity through architecture. On the subject of the new boutique, Loro Piana Chief Executive Fabio d’Angelantonio explains, “Japan is very much a quality driven market, with touch being key in ‘feeling’ the quality of the products. The Japanese also highly appreciate not only how an object appears, but also what’s behind it, its construction and details, aspects where Loro Piana excels.”

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Just next door to the new Loro Piana boutique is a striking black tower on Chuo-dori Street, which now houses the boutique of Swiss watchmaker Hublot. Here laminated dark glass panels resemble scales, as if the tower may morph into Godzilla at any moment. However, the true purpose of these panels is to glow from within during evening hours and shine with reflected sunlight during daytime. Inside the boutique an equally modern design has been achieved. Speaking on their new presence in Ginza, Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe said, “this project has been in the pipeline for months and we wanted to complete it and affirm our presence in Japan, our largest market in terms of domestic sales, since sales to tourism clientele account for barely 5% of the total. So we’re expecting a faster rebound here than elsewhere.” Interestingly enough, is the fact that Japan isn’t only the largest market for Hublot, but Zenith as well!

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Particular highlights of the tile clade Zenith boutique on Namiki Dori Street are found inside, where shoppers can explore the infinite world of time and space by looking up into a ceiling that represents Zenith’s philosophy of “Time to Reach Your Star.” Zenith’s story bar is touted by the brand as the perfect spot to “enjoy a drink while [you] learn more about Zenith from videos featuring the Maison’s history and savoir-faire.”

Although many similar brands have postponed the opening of new boutiques due to the global pandemic, LVMH has moved forward with the “inaugurations” of their newest boutiques in Japan. Speaking on the subject of the new openings, Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith, stated: “Despite the Covid-19 crisis and the short-term economic impact, our brand’s plans and ambitions remain intact. The foundations established in recent years and our very good 2019 results bolster our confidence in our strategy. And expanding our own-store network is a pillar of this strategy.”

All images provided courtesy of: LVMH

Breitling Honors COVID-19 Frontline Workers

This past April, Breitling released an eye-catching watch; the rainbow colorway edition of the Superocean Heritage ’57. The Superocean evokes feelings of hope and optimism, and it is because of these feelings that Breitling will launch a blue-dial edition, limited to 1000 pieces. Part of the proceeds from watch sales will be donated to charities supporting frontline healthcare workers battling COVID 19. Additionally, Breitling is donating CHF 1000 (1053 USD) for each of the Superocean Limited Edition II watches sold to this cause.

The Superocean Heritage Limited Edition II comes out of Breitling’s Superocean Heritage ’57 capsule collection, inspired by the “laid-back surfing lifestyle of the 1960s.” The collection pays tribute to the original 1957 SuperOcean, which was created to serve as a quintessential tool for professional and military divers, alike. However, due to the classic features and bold design, this dive watch quickly became a favorite among the amateur diver and watch enthusiasts alike. Previously known primarily for aviation watches, the Superocean put Breitling on the map for dive watches. Since the 1950s, the Superocean has become one of the most reliable dive watches on the market.

In 2007, Breitling celebrated the 50th anniversary of this watch with the Heritage Collection, paying tribute to the original 1957 design, complete with the 1950s logo and braided steel bracelet. Ten years later, Breitling retained the iconic design with the Superocean Heritage II while modernizing the model with a shock-resistant ceramic ring and new steel bezel. Today, the Superocean mixes classic design with modern technology, creating a sophisticated timepiece with advanced waterproofing and pressurized technology.

The Superocean Heritage Limited Edition II stands out with pops of color––each hour marker a different color of the rainbow. The 42mm case has oversized hour markers and is powered by the Breitling Caliber 10, a COSC-certified chronometer (Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres). The watch can be paired with either a stainless steel bracelet or a vintage inspired brown leather strap. Additionally, the caseback features the words “One of 1000” to mark the limited run of this unique timepiece. 

Images Courtesy of: Breitling

For More Information on The Superocean Visit: Breitling.com

A Deeper Look | Fashion Brands Who Truly Support Equality

Image Credit: Matthew Sichkaruk

Across the US, protests have erupted in response to the death of George Floyd, an unarmed Black man who died in police custody during an attempted arrest on May 25. What began with protestors calling for police reform in Minneapolis, has ricocheted to countless other cities. The four Minneapolis police officers involved in the attempted arrest of Floyd have been arrested.

Taking notice of the protest’s persistence and increasing influence, many luxury fashion brands have issued statements denouncing racism and lending support to the Black Lives Matter movement. But something fashion enthusiasts have been quick to point out is that many of these statements of support don’t seem to align with the actions taken by the brands issuing them. Instagram account Diet Prada (1.9 million followers) has used its platform to point out many of the discrepancies between what brands are saying and what they are actually doing.

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In 2018, Prada came under fire for displaying and selling products that appeared to reference blackface imagery. Faced with a complaint filed with the New York City Human Rights Commission, Prada laid out a plan with the commission to create a scholarship program for underrepresented students in fashion, have its employees complete racial equity training, and hire a diversity and inclusion officer. 

Unfortunately, mishaps like the one made by Prada in 2018 are all too common and in 2019, Gucci had to pull an $890 sweater from its Fall Winter 2018 runway show, which appeared to reference blackface as well. Both companies have published statements on social media denouncing racism since the beginning of the protests. Although vague in their messaging, Gucci said that it will donate to the NAACP, Campaign Zero, and Your Rights Camp, while Prada said that it will continue to work with its Diversity and Inclusion Council to “fight for racial justice everywhere.” 

Other brands that have faced criticism in recent years for being racially insensitive are COMME des GARÇONS, Dolce & Gabbana, and L’Oréal, all of which have released statements supporting the protests and calling for anti-racism. In January of this year, COMME des GARÇONS was accused of cultural appropriation after having white models walk its runway wearing lace front cornrow wigs. In 2018, private messages allegedly sent by Dolce & Gabbana founder Stefano Gabbana’s Instagram account surfaced, in which Gabbana allegedly referred to Chinese people as “ignorant dirty smelling mafia.” Dolce & Gabbana stated that the account was hacked. As for L’Oréal, after posting a statement of solidarity with the recent protests, influencer Munroe Bergdorf claimed that the brand dropped her from a 2017 campaign after she spoke out about racism and white supremacy. Since posting her story on Twitter, Munroe says that she has spoken with L’Oréal and is now looking forward “to new beginnings and a new positive relationship” with the brand.

According to a report published by the Center for Talent Innovation in December of 2019, although Black Americans make up 12% of the US population, they only account for 3.2% of senior leadership roles at large US companies. This lack of representation in higher leadership roles amongst all US companies, includes luxury designer brands and can easily contribute to the occurrence of racially insensitive decisions.

But, among the many luxury fashion brands who have issued statements of support in regard to the Black Lives Matter movement, not all have pasts scarred by racially insensitive mishaps. Instead, some actually practice what they preach. 

Since its founding in 2013 by Haitian American designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, the luxury clothing brand Pyer Moss has used its platform to highlight Black culture and Black lives. On its website, it describes itself as a “mens and womenswear fashion label concerned with building a narrative that speaks about heritage and activism.” Most, if not all, of the models in Pyer Moss’s runway shows and campaigns are Black. One key aspect that has garnered a lot of attention for the brand has been its use of all Black choirs in its runway shows and campaign videos.

Similar to Pyer Moss in its outlook and messaging is the Brooklyn-based brand Telfar. Founded in 2005 by Telfar Clemens, the brand has gained popularity recently with its range of affordable designer handbags. Like Jean-Raymond, Clemens has used his runway shows to highlight the Black community and in 2019 Telfar partnered with the Black Lives Matter Global Network to create a limited-edition T-shirt that was featured on the runway.

The clothing and accessories brand Shami Oshun, is another Black-owned luxury brand that has gained popularity from its ingenuity and representation. After Kim Kardashian’s brand SKIMS faced criticism in response to its “nude” face masks that were released in mid-May, many fashion enthusiasts took the chance to highlight Shami Oshun’s “nude” masks instead. What was the difference? SKIMS masks were only made available in five different nude shades and the nude shade meant for women with darker skin tones was the color black and not nude like it claimed to be. Shami Oshun’s masks are available in nine different shades and there are four different nude shades available for women with darker skin tones. 

Prabal Gurung, founder of the luxury fashion brand Prabal Gurung, recently wrote an opinion piece for The Washington Post titled “It’s time for Asian Americans to shed the ‘model minority’ myth and stand for George Floyd.” In the piece, Gurung discusses his background as someone who immigrated to the US from Nepal, while also touching upon his experiences in the fashion industry and the ‘model minority’ myth.

“We can no longer afford to be comfortable, only practicing activism in spaces where we know people will agree with us. We have to be loud and get uncomfortable to truly be effective,” writes Gurung.

Aside from the brands just mentioned, the Dutch clothing brand Ganni announced that it had donated $100,000 to Black Lives Matter, the NAACP, and the ACLU and the makeup and skincare brand Glossier posted on social media of its intention to donate $500,000 to a slew of civil rights initiatives, including Black Lives Matter, The Equal Justice Initiative, and We The Protestors. As the Black Lives Matter movement becomes more widely accepted, a key challenge is ensuring that statements of support made my influential brands like Prada, Gucci, and others, are carried out even after the movement’s peak.

Images provided courtesy of: unsplash.com

101 Cartier Clocks Head to Auction at Christie’s Geneva

Christie’s Geneva will soon be enjoying the privilege of displaying and auctioning a world renowned collection of 101 Cartier clocks. Spread across 80 years of production, the clocks represent some of Cartier’s most impressive horological marvels. The collection, which is estimated to fetch between 3.9 million to 5.7 million CHF, was assembled by a passionate collector over the course of three decades. Auction estimates for each lot range from 8,000 to over 100,000 CHF.

Although founded in 1847, it was not until the start of the 20th century that Louis Cartier and master clock-maker Maurice Coüet cultivated their acclaimed relationship. With inspiration from magician Jean Eugène Robert-Houdin, Coüet developed a passion for incorporating the most technologically advanced mechanisms into the brand’s celebrated creations. One such example of this passion are Cartier’s mystery clocks like the 1912 planet clocks, these horological masterpieces were defined by their round or angular cases and dual superimposed dials. Gold, diamond covered indicators, and light as well as dark blue rotating enamel lower dials to represent a day or night sky, were hallmarks of the mystery clock design language.

Excitingly, the auction will include two mystery clocks, ‘lot 11 a semi-mystery clock, circa 1920 (estimate CHF70,000-100,000/US$75,000-110,000) and lot 42 a planet semi-mystery clock, circa 1918, maker Maurice Coüet (estimate: CHF120,000-180,000 US$130,000-190,000).’ Those in the horological world often regard the mystery clock or pendules mystérieuses as one of Coüet’s crowning achievements. The clock’s mechanisms, which were hidden in the case’s frame, where an innovative move that ‘astonished the industry.’

The collection will be on display during Christie’s Geneva Spring Auction Week at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues from June 27th to June 30th, daily from 10.00am to 6.00pm. The auction will be held on July 1st at the beginning of the 2.00pm session.

Image credit: Christie’s

Talking style with the one and only Paul Feig

During these unprecedented times we are very pleased to inform you that we were recently given the privilege of interviewing one of Hollywood’s most stylish men. Allow us to introduce you to Paul Feig, well known for his box office hits such as A Simple Favor, Ghostbusters: Answer the Call, and Bridesmaids. Feig is a gifted actor, writer, director and producer whose style is much more old Hollywood than any leading man often seen on today’s red carpet. Regularly dressed in bespoke English suits and shoes, Feig’s style is both sensible and entirely exciting.

We don’t know a man who wouldn’t benefit from Feig’s tasteful philosophy and his quintessentially brilliant humor. Read on to learn how Feig developed his one of a kind wardrobe, love of watches and his exciting new Gin.

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Is there a certain place or moment that you trace the start of your sartorial journey to?

“It was a combo of things.  When I was a kid, I was an only child and close with my mom.  And so we used to watch old movies from the 1930s and 40s together.  I was always so taken by how great Cary Grant and Fred Astaire, as well as most other men in the films, looked in their clothes.  I loved the scenes at the old dinner clubs where everyone was in tuxedos and gowns.  Cary Grant in ‘His Girl Friday’ gave me an obsession for double-breasted suits.  I also loved all the three-piece suits you’d see guys in, with their watch chains and pocket silks.  Then, one day I was reading a biography about Groucho Marx, who was my comedy hero, and it said that he never trusted men who didn’t dress well.  That was all the prodding I needed to decide that I too had to dress well all the time.  So, it wasn’t a far jump to decide I would dress like the guys I admired in the movies.  My decision to wear suits was decided then and there at the tender age of eight.“

When you began building your current wardrobe, what were some of the first pieces that found their way into it and why?

“I had (and still have) an obsession with Ralph Lauren.  He always seemed to be influenced by the same things that I was.  He had such a classic American style that seemed many times to be torn right out of those old Cary Grant movies I loved so much.  And so I started buying Ralph pretty exclusively.  Since I had also developed a love for the suits of the 1950s and 60s because of early James Bond movies and comedians like Lenny Bruce as well as the Rat Pack, when Ralph launched the now defunct Black Label line of thinner fitting suits with narrower lapels I went wild, buying as many as I could.  (When they went on sale, that is!)  But then in 2011 when I was living in London developing a film, Eric Fellner, one of the heads of Working Title, gifted me a bespoke suit from Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row because he saw that I only ever wore suits to work.  This created a whole new (and rather pricey) obsession for me.  Simply put, once you put on a truly bespoke suit made to your exact measurements it’s very hard to look back.  It then lead me to expand out to a newer bespoke tailoring house in London called Thom Sweeney, as well as getting wonderful made-to-measure suits from the Italian designer Isaia.  But I still have pretty much all my old Ralph Lauren suits and thanks to my wonderful tailor, Mario of Beverly Hills, I have been able to have them re-tailored and brought up to speed so that they are happily back in rotation in my closet.”

Do you believe that your personal style has evolved over the years? If so, how?

“I have definitely gone from classic style in the 1970s that still had a heavy disco influence to it to 1950s style suits to English traditional to Italian sprezzatura and even had about a decade where my style was everything from Willi Wear unstructured suits with rolled up sleeves and bolo ties to vintage bowling shirts with baggy pants and Converse All-Stars to Hawaiian shirts and shorts.  But I always made sure to have a style.  I never want to make anybody feel bad about how they dress but to me the worst thing you can do to yourself is to not have a style.  It doesn’t have to be fashionable and frankly it really shouldn’t be because then you’re just following trends and being led around by the wallet by the fashion industry.  It should just be your way of telling the world “This is who I am.”  Because like it or not, we’re all judged every day on our appearance, whether we like it or not.  It’s up to us once we meet people to show who we really are in human interaction, and there are plenty of times in life where outer appearance doesn’t match what’s on the inside at all.  But why not use your appearance to help people know who you are right off the bat?  You’ll look great and you’ll feel better about yourself.  I guarantee it.“

When it comes to dressing, do you employ any particular philosophy?

“I personally want to make sure the world knows that while I like to dress up, I’m also not some stodgy old lawyer who doesn’t have a sense of humor and fun about myself.  So, I always try to throw in items that keep a suit from being just a suit.  Fun colored pocket silks, ties that stand out, silk boutonnieres and happy looking socks are all things I use to set myself apart from the world of men who have to wear suits everyday for work.  So many guys seem to be at odds with their suits and it’s clear that they can’t wait to take them off when they get home.  I want the world to see that I enjoy wearing a suit and that I do it because I choose to.  I think it shows not only who I am but also a respect for the world around me, especially when I’m at work.  As a film director and producer, I’m so lucky to be able to work with so many talented people.  When I’m in meetings or on the set or in the editing room, I’m the captain of the ship that is my movie.  And so I want to dress the part.  I always say that if I got on a ship and the captain was wearing sweat pants, I’d get off the ship.  Getting dressed is about respect for yourself, respect for others and respect for the world around you.  And if you just happen to look better when you do it, then that’s an extra win!“

What is your personal opinion when it comes to deciding between acquiring or commissioning a Bespoke, RTW, or MTM garment?

“I have very sloping shoulders and so as much as I love ready to wear, they always require a lot of alterations.  The shoulders of a suit are so much the main structure of a suit jacket that there’s only so much most tailors can do to make it fit perfectly.  I abhor shoulder pads and so to avoid doing that, it’s usually a pretty big undertaking to get an off the rack suit to fit me correctly.  It’s why I took so enthusiastically to bespoke.  The problem as we all know is that it’s very expensive.  The upside is a bespoke suit pretty much lasts forever.  The tailors always make sure to leave enough fabric in every seam that if you gain weight they can let it out and keep your fit right.  But the best part about an expensive suit is it puts you on what I call the Tailoring Diet, which means that if you start to gain weight and your most expensive suit starts to get tight, it’s the greatest motivation to lose weight.  And if you do lose too much, they can always tailor your suit smaller!  That’s what we call a win/win!

What I like about made-to-measure is that you get the bespoke experience but for not quite as much money.  It’s still not cheap, not by a long shot, but it’s also not as astronomical as bespoke can be.  Some of my favorite suits in my collection are my Isaia MTM suits.  They have a true Neapolitan style and fit and are insanely comfortable while looking very cool and Italian.  And once they have your pattern, you can order new suits from whatever new fabrics they come out with.  The same is true for bespoke, but I have found that many times true bespoke takes several more visits to the bespoke house to get just right than the MTMs do.  But either way, you’re going to look great in the final product.  And sometimes that’s worth the extra money.“

I assume this is a rather difficult question, but if you could only have one suit maker, one shirt maker, and one shoemaker for the rest of your life, who would they be and why?

“That is a very tough one, and one I’m not sure I can properly answer.  I think I have to cheat and give you two for each choice.  For suits, it’s a split between Anderson & Sheppard and Isaia.  For shirts, it’s a tie between Anto of Beverly Hills and Budd Shirts in London.  And for shoes, I love George Cleverly shoes (in particular their Churchill style that has fake laces and elastic vents on the side so that they are basically loafers that look like laced-dress shoes) and Salvatore Ferragamo shoes.  I find that there are certain brands that just fit your specific foot better and so it’s a bit of a trial and error with different brands to find the ones that seem to be made for your shape of foot.  Don’t be afraid to try on many brands before deciding what to buy.  That’s what stores are there for!“

Where do you look for sartorial inspiration?

“Where don’t I look?  For me, style inspiration is everywhere.  I watch old movies, look in magazines, look through photography books and for the most part really observe the people around me.  It’s why I love traveling to other countries to see how the men who dress actually dress.  I’ve found inspiration in every country I’ve ever been in.  Most times it’s not even a complete look I’m inspired by.  It’s usually a detail I see.  A way of tying a tie, the unusual fit of someone’s jacket and pants, a piece of jewelry or adornment on their clothes or self, or some bit of odd sprezzatura I would never have thought of.  I like to collect these ideas and then try them for myself.  But not every look and idea works on every person the same.  I’ve seen guys who look amazing in a specific look but then when I try it I look ridiculous.  Style is very personal and it has to match who you are in total.  It’s why I always say the main thing you have to do when you try a new style is to not just look at your body when you look in the mirror but to then look at your head on top of those clothes.  I’m not saying you shouldn’t take chances.  You always should.  But you will know in your heart if you’re trying to dress too young for who you are, or too cool for who you are, or if it’s simply not working for you.  If you’re on the fence, then go with it.  But if you feel at all like something’s not right, or it’s not sending the message you want to send to the world, then don’t buy it, and look for the thing that makes you feel great.“

In addition to your fantastic clothing collection, you are also quite the watch connoisseur. With that said, how did you initially become interested in the world of horology?

“I feel like as men we have so few options for adornment.  Women’s style and fashion seems to have a million different looks, especially when it comes to dressing up.  But for guys, if you’re a traditionalist like me, all we really have is the suit.  I’ve never been a fan of too much experimentation with the cuts and styles of suits.  (Just say no to the Nehru jacket and its never-ending quest to come back into style.) Again, it’s fine if you’re young and cool but for most guys traditional suits just work.  And so all we can really do is play with our ties, silks, boutonnières and cufflinks.  But watches are something we can really have some fun with.  Also, I just love that they are these little machines that we wear on our wrists.  The work, craftsmanship and genius that goes into making something so small, that is so complicated and accurate, will never cease to amaze me.  It doesn’t mean you need a bunch of watches.  But once you get the fever, it’s sort of hard to stop at just one.  I love things that I can have on me that are both functional, but that also make me happy when I look at them.  Being in the middle of a stressful day and looking down at a watch that I love is sort of a man’s security blanket.  Or, at least it is for me!“

How would you explain the relationship between your watch collection and wardrobe?  

“I try to make sure that they work together.  I have some watches that are big sports watches and so putting that on with an elegant suit for a night out at a nice restaurant always feels wrong to me.  I never want the watch to overpower the suit and cuff.  For formal wear, a smaller profile watch is the way to go.  That, or simply no watch.  It’s okay to go without one occasionally because, like it or not, we always have our phones on us to check the time.  But I’d never want the clock on my phone to make my watches obsolete.  Watches are about telling time but they’re also about appreciating precision and craftsmanship.  They’re like works of art on your wrist.“

Is there a grail watch that you’ve been coveting? 

“That’s such a hard one.  There’s so many I’d love to have.  But I guess if I had to snap my fingers and a watch would magically appear, it would be a Richard Mille.“

Where can we follow you?

“You can find me on both Twitter and Instagram at @paulfeig.  Also, for the foreseeable future you can join me every day on my Instagram live feed for Quarantine Cocktail Time at 5pm PST/8pm EST and then streaming on replay for the next 24 hours after that.  Hope to see you there!

I also have my very own gin rolling into stores as we speak.  It’s called Artingstall’s Brilliant London Dry Gin and its already won Best Gin and Double Gold at the 2019 Worldwide Spirits Wholesalers Association competition and been awarded a 94 from The Tasting Panel magazine.“

Featured Image Credit: Jamie Ferguson provided courtesy of 42West

Talking Watches with Penny Morris of Bonhams

Recently the team here at The Extravagant enjoyed the exclusive privilege of interviewing Senior Watch Specialist Penelope Morris, who heads the Bonhams Knightsbridge Watch department. Morris, who is an Associate of the British Horological Institute and a member of the Antiquarian Horological Society, has now worked for Bonhams for nearly a decade and has proven to be one of the most talented women in the watch industry. The knowledge possessed by Morris is vast to say the least with highlights of her career that include the sale of 2,000 watches that belong to a European aristocrat and the the sale of a Josiah Emery pocket watch for £117,500.

Read on to learn more about Morris’ guide to collecting, her passion for complicated women’s watches, and her busy schedule at Bonhams.

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How did you first get involved in the world of horology? Was it a particular encounter with watches in your childhood, or through a family member or work?

“Straight after university I started working at an independent jeweller. Our on-site watchmaker Mike, as the only Rolex trained technician in the area, was inundated with work and so I used to help him with some of the basic repairs, such as battery changing and pressure testing, etc. His incredible generosity and patience with my questions is really what got me interested in horology and from there I joined Bonhams Watch Department just over eight years ago.“

Take us through a day in your life at the Bonhams Auctions Watch Department.

“The joy of working at an auction house is that no two days are the same – more often than not you really don’t know what watches you will be seeing and handling that day. Auctions work in cycles and, as we are always working on two to three sales at any one time, the work changes over the course of the year.

Today, I’m catching up with estimate enquiries that have come through by email over-night. We are fast approaching the deadline of our next auction, (Watches and Wristwatches, Knightsbridge, 18 February) so we are following up and reaching out for potential consignments to ensure we have an interesting and accessible collection to auction.

Throughout the day we have appointments scheduled with clients bringing in their watches to be valued. In both our New Bond St and Knightsbridge offices, we also have ‘walk in’ valuation clients who are passing by.

In between seeing these clients I’ll catalogue and inspect the watches already assigned as well as keeping tabs on our photographer who is halfway through shooting each watch ready for our designers to compile into a brochure next week. Meanwhile, I’ll run through everything to ensure we have all the I’s dotted and T’s crossed – everything from checking the contracts are correctly signed to liaising with the manufacturers for access to their archives.

As we are starting a new season, I will book my travel arrangements for our valuation days that we conduct across the world. I primarily focus on Spain, Italy, Scotland and other parts of the UK, but as a team we have representation and are active in most major cities or states across the world. We also host travelling exhibitions of our highlights for potential buyers, including in [places like] New York and Hong Kong.“

Tell us about some of the pieces that are in your personal collection.

“Ironically, my collection is very sparse – as many can identify with, when you first come out of college or university the dreams of owning that watch or that car or travelling to that exotic location get put on hold whilst ‘real life’ and paying the bills take front.

As time has gone by my dilemma has evolved. Now the issue is that there are just too many I would like! How do you settle on any of them when your job involves handling (and playing with) on average 30 different styles a day?

At Bonhams we auction timepieces from as far back as the 17^th Century up to something that theoretically could have been manufactured last week – it makes narrowing down the choice very difficult indeed. The upside is that it allows for neutral first impressions when meeting clients – best to be judged on what you know than what you have on your wrist.“

What has your time in watch collecting and selling been like? Have there been any particularly memorable points or challenges along the way?

“Working in an auction house has to date been unlike anything else. One of the things I enjoy is that you get to meet people from all walks of life. Watches are a commodity which can be incredibly versatile and as such are one of the more accessible forms of collectibles. Not everyone has a grand villa filled to the brim with Renoirs, but more often than not there is always a watch lurking in a drawer if not already being enjoyed on someone’s wrist.

Some industries can be dominated by dealers but, for us, nearly 90 percent of all watches we sell in London come from private owners, with stories that can be absolutely fascinating.

One of my most memorable experiences was handling the sale of a single owner collection of 2000 watches. The logistics behind that project were extensive and although watches themselves don’t take up much space their accompanying boxes sure do. As part of that undertaking, we pioneered an entirely new Online Only sale platform for Bonhams as well as touring highlights from the collection around the world. It was a real eye opener into the different influences enthusiasts have while building up their collections, as well as demonstrating that beautiful watches can be found in all price brackets.“

Do you believe that your collecting philosophy has evolved? If so, how?

“Yes, for sure. When I started out in this industry, I was very young and it was easy to be distracted by the flashier names, who incidentally often have the bigger marketing budgets. Nowadays I am far more interested in smaller companies where they allow room for expression in their work rather than following an algorithm of what is likely to be the most profitable design. That is not to say, however, that I do not have an appreciation for the bigger brands – you don’t make it to the top for no reason and that deserves respect.”

What is the most impressive piece that you’ve come across at Bonhams and why?

“This is a tricky one –since starting at Bonhams I have been involved in the sale of just over 14,000 watches so it’s hard to pick just one….!

However, shortly after joining Bonhams, we offered for sale a private collection of amazing pocket watches. One that really stood out for me was a pair case by Johannis (or John) Thompson of York from circa 1665, which had the most delicate outer case made of silver filigree (a form of metal work made with tiny beads or twisted threads and stylised into artistic motifs). Coupled with this the dial had what are called ‘tumbling hours’, where the numerals look like they are, quite literally, tumbling down the dial – that analogy is one that has stuck with me and I just love the idea of it. For a watch just over 350 years (old) it was in impeccable condition and absolutely stunning.“

Do you have any special take on the demand that is growing for complicated women’s watches?

“As a female it can get boring when all the R&D conducted by the different brands leads to just putting some diamonds on a smaller version of something originally designed for a male audience. As such I think it is brilliant that there is a growing awareness that when designing a watch for women, they, just like men, want something that is just as interesting on the inside as it is on the outside.”

Any advice for women that are looking to start building a horologically savvy and balanced collection?

“Don’t be influenced by whether a watch is marketed in a gendered way – if you like it you like it. Once it is on your wrist it is no longer a male or female watch but your watch. Look at brands that were producing chronographs in the 50s, for me that was a period of really interesting development when the manufacturers were all experimenting. This is something that continued on into the 70s and can really offer you so much more variety for those looking for something a little different. Vintage watches also historically tend to be on the smaller side compared with their modern counterparts, so for a female [they] can be more accessible.“

Currently, what are some vintage pieces that have been capturing your attention?

“Last year we had the opportunity to offer for sale three spectacular Patek Philippes – references 1518, 530 and 1579 – all manufactured within a six-year window around 1950. Even after 70 years, their clean designs still resonate with today’s audience and are timeless blends of deceptively simple dials with complicated movements. I also have a thing for early Cartiers and I highly recommend a great new book by Francesca Cartier Brickell, one of the descendants of the original Cartiers, covering the history of the family.“

What is your advice for those who are looking to acquire a vintage watch?

“Do your research and be realistic – condition is a huge thing nowadays in the pre-owned market and replacement parts can cause you quite a bit of bother down the line if you are not careful. However, there is a balance – watches are mechanical objects, they are little machines and as such they need TLC to preserve them and keep them functioning. The desire for vintage watches only in perfect condition is increasingly only met with a deep pocket whilst those that have been sympathetically restored are getting increasingly overlooked. If you remain realistic and take them for what they are – a restored watch – you can still enjoy and obtain a great timepiece.

My other advice would be to browse the auctions, try the watches on and get a ‘feel’ for the watches physically. Auction houses are like interactive galleries where the exhibition regularly changes and if there isn’t anything that works for you in that sale there is always another one coming up. They are perfect for offering variety and getting a hands-on experience that you don’t necessarily get anywhere else.“

Where can we follow you?

“You can follow me on Instagram at both @pennymorris1 and @bonhamswatches“

Images courtesy of: Bonhams

Dior Spring Summer 2020 Haute Couture: Womenswear or Goddesswear?

Marie Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from ancient Greek and Roman goddesses when developing Dior’s Spring Summer 2020 Collection. While simultaneously maintaining Dior’s design DNA, Chiuri begins to challenge how far haute couture silhouettes can be taken and ask “Are Clothes Modern?”

In line with the “Goddess” inspired clothing, the question “What if Women Ruled the World?” often asked by American artist Judy Chicago remained at the heart of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s design philosophy when creating the Spring-Summer 2020 haute couture collection.

Presented at the Musée Rodin, the 2,500 year old peplos took center stage; originally developed as body length women’s garment in Ancient Greece, Dior’s interpretation is much like a modern day evening dress. The drape of the ancient inspired garments in the collection were complemented by counterparts of the collection in fitted jackets with loose collars paired with skirts and pants. Uncommon patterns such as, houndstooth and herringbone were incorporated to give the collection a more powerful masculine edge without comprising on Dior’s feminine design details.

Judy Chicago, whose well received installation at Musée Rodin titled “The Female Divine,” is said to “serve as a sanctuary, a stage and a monumental artwork for the Dior Spring-Summer 2020 haute couture collection.” It was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mission to highlight the ideas of American Feminist art and give new life to the ‘divine conception of femininity.’

With each and every new season, Dior pushes their Creative Director to immerse them-self in a particular subject to develop a unique theme with a “singular vision.” With this collection Chiuri appears to have pushed herself to find the line between ‘ feminism and femininity’ while simultaneously ” re-sculpting the body like a manifesto.”

Image credit: © Dior, provided courtesy of LVMH

From Dior to Berluti – Men’s Fall Winter 2020-2021 Collections

Paris Fashion Week Shows by Givenchy, Loewe, Berluti, Dior and Louis Vuitton highlighted a myriad range of fresh menswear. From the audacious to the practical; read on for an in depth look at some of this seasons most prominent menswear shows.

First and foremost we start off with a look at Givenchy’s collection, described as ‘lavish hedonism inspired by India‘ by parent company LVMH. Givenchy Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller gathered inspiration for the collection from Yashwant Rao Holkar II, the 14th Maharajah of Indore who moved to Los Angeles in the 1930s. The Maharajah who lived from 1908 to 1961 was well known for his eccentric tastes in clothing, which often consisted of traditional Indian or Western garb covered in an abundance of pearls, gemstones and precious metals. Distinct embroidery delivered on a canvas of overcoats, double breasted blazers, and slim suits are a staple in this year’s collection. Square toe boots and oversize sweaters along with the the Antigona Soft carry-all bag were also prominent aspects of Keller’s designs.

Loewe’s Fall/Winter collection spearheaded by Creatuve Director Jonathan Anderson is described by LVMH as ‘materials magnified by the opulence of shapes.’ Where textures and forms take center stage, satin and double face wool are paired in the most spectacular of fashions. The cut of the cloth gives a shape that is opulence in the purest of forms. Giant bags, cape style coats, and army shorts that appear like shorts are all hallmarks of the Loewe Fall/Winter 20/21 collection.

Berluti, the house that’s magical patinas give birth to the world’s most spectacular leather creations, has not disappointed with their collection debuted in the historic Opera Garnier. The show is best described as a ‘Generational dialogue’ where Berluti continues to evolve by boasting their tailoring skills alongside their mastery of shoe-making. Artistic director Kris Van Assche has assembled a collection where historic and modern can coexistence in an enhanced environment. The most eye catching creation? Berluti’s trademark patina leather suit. Additional highlights were made up of Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and herringbone suits and odd jackets. This also includes an assortment of leather outerwear, weekend bags, small leather goods and trunks, in addition to a shoe care kit developed in collaboration with British luggage-manufacturer Globe-Trotter.

Dior’s Artistic Director Kim Jones payed homage to designer and stylist Judy Blame with the house’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection. With a blend of ‘timeless elegance’ the collection draws on 1980’s London and one of the town’s most fabled characters, Judy Blame, who’s DIY style accessory designs are legendary. Blame, who was born Christopher Barnes, “changed his name to Judy Blame; “Judy” was a nickname given to him by designer Antony Price, and the surname “Blame” was suggested by Scarlett Cannon, a hairdresser friend.^” It has been said that he selected a female name in order to bewilder others. On the subject of Blame Jones it is stated, “Her love of couture was an inspiration to us all.”

The shapes and silhouettes of pieces in the collection show fashion as a process rather than a particular outcome. In a nod to Blame’s DIY style, the Dior logo features a safety pin and the renowned Dior Oblique pattern stars in a range of beaded embroideries. Dark blues and grays excite the imagination and pleats ‘reference flou and tailoring techniques.’ Decorating patterns are displayed in immense quantities and draw inspiration from the toile de jouy motif that decorated Christian Dior’s first boutique. A new motif/pattern designed specially for the Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection in collaboration with the Trust Judy Blame Foundation titled “Toile de Judy” was a special highlight.

Last, but certainly not least, Maison Louis Vuitton showed their extraordinary classicism coupled with freshness in their Fall Winter 2020-2021 menswear collection. Artistic Director Virgil Abloh broke free of Louis Vuitton’s popular street-wear image with ” a study of the evolving anthropology of the suit.” Abloh focuses on the silhouette, reaching beyond traditional ideas associated with the men’s suit. The designs deliver a collection that is a “symbol of craft and creativity, magnified by lionized sculptures of the artisan’s traditional tools on the catwalk.”

Images courtesy of LVMH, Featured Image Credit: © Dior

Kiton’s New Palm Beach Boutique Stuns With Clean Lines And Bright Patterns

Kiton’s newest boutique, located in the winter hot spot of Palm Beach, Florida, has been wowing shoppers since their opening in September of last year. Situated within The Royal Poinciana Plaza, this boutique focuses on Menswear, Womenswear, and the KNT urban wear project, in addition to offering a dedicated in-store area for Kiton’s bespoke service.

With over 2,000 square feet of floor-space the boutique offers ample room to display the brand’s innovative creations that blend tailoring with textile manufacturing. The modular design of the store is meant to usher in Kiton’s new ideology for their boutique floor-plans, which focus on ‘a continuous series of interchangeable modules and components that can easily be integrated.’ This new design style is meant to allow for endless customization to keep the store looking fresh. Walnut furniture with brass detailing along with Kiton’s proprietary fabric home textiles and artworks from Kiton Founder Ciro Paone’s private collection complete the boutiques decor.

“I’m very proud of our deep connection with American customers, who appreciate our mission of elegance and superior quality. This motivates us to continue to invest in new projects in the country”, said Kiton CEO Antonio De Matteis.

Now boasting over 50 years in business, Kiton is most well regarded for their exceptional quality ready to wear tailoring and exclusive fabrics, crafted from pure vicuña, Guanaco, cashmere, wool and fine silk. The Palm Beach location marks 51 stores in Kiton’s portfolio and their 20th point of sale destination in the United States

Image courtesy of: Kiton

An In-depth Look at Women’s Suits

This is the perfect time for women to swap out their dress and skirt suits for elegant yet professional pant suits. In the last few seasons, designers have given women more reasons to ditch the old notion about suits being a reserve for the corporate environment or office wear.

Of course, you can still maintain the formal 9 to 5 blazer and pants combination but pant suits for women don’t just end there. Thanks to endless design options, there are numerous pant suit styles for any occasion including playful patterns, springtime pastels, and casual prints for all seasons.

Pant suits have come a long way since they were first introduced to the fashion world by Andre Courreges way back in the 1960s. Designer pant suits, popularly known as trouser suits outside the US, are basically a pair of trousers perfectly matched with a jacket or coat.

The pant suit was originally designed for business occasions but as more companies start to shift towards casual wear, women are now sporting innovatively designed pant suits in and out of the office pairing them with wonderful jewelry. A pantsuit is just as handy in a meeting with an important client or in a job interview as it is in an informal occasion. All that matters is getting the right design for the right place. And there is no shortage of design.

Fall 2019 has introduced notable trends that focus on ditching the traditional sharp masculine shapes in suiting for clean feminine lines. For instance, Clare Waight Keller, who designs clothes with women in mind, now features curved-shoulder suits that give the usual slim blazer an elegant feminine appeal. Marco Zanini has not been left behind in the new women pant suit trend with his artfully designed cinched jackets complemented by matching pants.

There are endless and quite affordable options today including posh lapel-less tops and matching bottoms, smooth and comfortable polyester no-iron fabrics, classic black ladylike shaped suits that you can wear over a boxy turtle neck, and dark grey or light gray options to suit your style and of course the occasion.   

Today’s pant suits for women provide a wide range of options in terms of design and materials used. The current trend seems to focus more on slim-fit designs with an elegant chic style. Most have tops with low popped collars, single large front button, lapel-less open front, and stylish vents on both sides of the front jacket. There are endless fabric and color options in today’s pant suits for women. Viscose and polyester are favored by most women because of their soft and comfortable fit.

Retro styles still persist in women’s pant suit designs too. There are 1970s inspired women suits featuring high waists, wide roomy pants, and matching blazers with broad shoulders. These bold fashion statements blend well in all settings including work, parties, formal events, and any special occasion. If skirt suits are no longer your thing or when you feel like trying something more elegant for a change, a two-piece blazer and pants suit is your perfect choice. Pant suits for women are not just ordinary suits for the office but something you pull out of your wardrobe when you are in the right mood to dress to impress.

Images Courtesy of: Givenchy