Over the Moon with Makenzie Moon Phelan

Makenzie Moon Phelan in the Studio, all images courtesy of the artist, 2019.

The Extravagant discusses art, culture and makeup with Makenzie Moon Phelan, NYC based artist and socialite, and daughter of wickedly fun art world patrons Amy and John Phelan. Drawing from a wide range of cultural references, we dive into her work as a makeup artist and her contemporary art practice:

What drew you to the world of make-up?  What do you feel is the role of the make-up artist and how does your fine art background (i.e. painting) inform your practice?

“Since I was young, I have been interested in both fine art and make-up for cinema or fashion.  Before parties and events, my mom and her friends would have me apply their make-up just at the age of seven, and I realized this is something I really enjoyed creatively. Creating and being around Contemporary Art heavily influences my make-up practice.  From thinking about how palettes and materials work together, to the physical application of pigment is so painterly.”

What inspires you, where do you draw inspiration from?  We noticed Stephen Hawking on your Insta, who inspires you?

“In my opinion, everyone’s view of the world is very different up to the point where my blue could be your green. I think how different people view our world is what has shaped and shifted basic human knowledge and understanding. Whether it be philosophers, artists, scientist, or famous mathematicians; had they not shared their personal world [inside of their head] with the public, our universe would lack so much color and expansiveness.”

“I am really inspired by the artists Will Cotton, Marilyn Minter, Marc Dennis, and Richard Phillips due to their fine craft. Currently I’m hooked on this brilliant Italian artist Paola Pivi. I think the mind and methods behind her works are beautiful.”

“I am also really inspired by trends in decades. I love the 60’s, especially Edie Sedgwick, and I also am fascinated with 18th Century aesthetic. Adding contemporary palettes to an old time period is really fun for me.”

Ornamentation on an anthropological level exists throughout human history, what is the role of make-up in society in your opinion?

“Makeup is a form of self expression. It also allows people the ability to enhance their natural beauty by using different color palettes, glitter, symbols and light diffusion.”

What is your dream commission as a make-up artist?  Is it cinema, is it runway, etc;

“I feel like my work is multi-faceted, so I would be thrilled to work in film or runway, but my dream project would be any form of collaboration or work with Ve Neill [of Beetlejuice and Hunger Game fame] one day. She is an extremely powerful woman in the makeup industry who’s work has influenced me since I was a little kid.”

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What trends do you love in make-up and obversely what do you dislike?  Favourite brands? Favourite makeup artists?

“My favorite trend in makeup is a basic cat eye with a red lip. I usually never leave my house without a cat eye. It’s a classic yet sexy look. I’m also really into the 60’s makeup trends. I think the big brows, dark sculpted eyes and dramatic lashes is a very feminine and playful look. I also love drag makeup. I’ve learned some of the best techniques through the drag community when I was living in London.”

“I’m not a huge fan of the heavy contour look, or any kind of makeup that covers freckles. I think makeup should always enhance one’s natural and inner beauty.”

“My favorite makeup artist in the beauty industry of all time is Charlotte Tilbury, that is a person I would also love to work with. In the special effects realm my favorite artist is Ve Neill. Pertaining to music, it is hard for me to pin down a favorite band, but my favorite musician is Marilyn Manson. I think he is brilliant, and a walking piece of art. There’s so much more to him than what lays on the surface.”

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What is the relationship between art and fashion?

“Both art and fashion are an extension of an individual’s creativity.  Creating or collecting art is an expression of self, just as fashion is.”

When did you become interested in art?

“From a very young age I have been creating art!  I grew up in a household that not only welcomed creativity, but championed it.  I have always been surrounded by incredible works of contemporary art, and I feel very fortunate that in most cases I know or am friends with the artist that has made them.”

Tell us about your own work as an artist? What projects have you taken part of? What’s your favourite media to work in (other than cosmetics)

“I love working with oil on canvas, and have had private instruction by some incredible artists such as Marc Dennis and Will Cotton. When I was younger, the problems I faced growing up (my personal inner turmoil) created a lot of noise in my head, I started writing poetry at a very young age as an outlet, then began illustrating the emotions behind my poetry and it evolved from there.”

How do you navigate between a cultural patron, an artist, and a muse?

“I don’t see these as being separate parts of my personality.  I think they all relate to each other, and I am just thrilled I can be part of a creative community in all of these capacities. People inspire me on a daily basis, and I feel happy I can inspire others as well.”

How does growing up in a family of art collectors impact your own aesthetic preferences?

“Growing up around some of the best examples of contemporary art is an incredible education.  Not only do I get to learn about new artists, but I am able to study the depth behind the individual behind the work, and learn about the material process of an artist. It also really helped me embrace my individuality as a person, leaving me unafraid to push boundaries with the way I dressed, or wore my makeup. Growing up around art the way I did also inspired me to let go of any fear of being experimental.”

Without any limitations tell us five artists or works of art you’d love to see in your dream collection.

1. One [of] Paola Pivi’s colorful feathered (life size) Polar bears and a piece from her “Zebras” series 
2. One of Marilyn Manson’s water color pieces 
3. Anything by Marc Rothko
4. One of Will Cotton’s Cake Sculptures
5. A Donald Judd “Stacks”

Are you affiliated with any institutions, foundations, or organizations?

“I just moved back to New York City, and am exploring new opportunities. As of right now I am affiliated [with] my family’s foundation. The Phelan Family Foundation believes that all people deserve the opportunity to succeed. To accomplish its mission, the Foundation funds a broad range of causes including education, the arts, health care, military personnel, and vulnerable populations. The Foundation seeks to address community needs at all levels—be it access to clean water, safe shelter and nutritious food, or education and training that unleashes the potential for economic prosperity. It also seeks to effect lasting change and measurable outcomes, while maintaining the Phelans’ sense of compassion and gratitude to the world.”

Having lived in many different places: where is home, literally and philosophically?

“I am currently based in New York, which is where I grew up. New York City is home for me.  I’ve spent time living in London and Los Angeles, but I recently moved back to NYC after finishing a program in special effects makeup on the West coast.  I also spend a lot of time in Palm Beach, FL and Aspen, CO with my family.”

What are some of your favourite places to visit in the world, what shouldn’t we miss?  What are some of your favourite art world or cultural events?

“Every summer I look forward to attending the ArtCrush events for the Aspen Art Museum, an event hosted by my amazing Mother, Amy Phelan. My favorite places I’ve traveled to though are Dubai, Chiang Mai, Jaipur, and Kyoto.”

Follow more of Makenzie Moon Phelan’s adventures on Instagram at:
@Moonefx @Kenziemooner

The Best Street Style Photos From Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020

Located in Xintiandi where the voice of youth thrives, Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 kicked off on March 27th and showcased a vigorous blend of designs from new Chinese talents like Susan Fang and Wanbing Huang. This season, show-goers expressed their distinctive use of culture and art by remixing eastern elements with modern chic. It’s refreshing to see how elegant women’s styles were represented in different looks such as a flowery blazer paired with a lace-trimmed cord skirt. The sweater trend was also spotted in versatile forms ranging from loose embroidered knitwear to vividly printed sweater-shirts. Besides global trends captured on and off the runways, the use of Chinese traditional iconography reminds us of the 21st-century zeitgeist: strength lies in difference.

Here are some selected street styles from stylish guests who attended Labelhood, which focuses on promoting independent Chinese designers.

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing colorful jewelry and a white turtleneck with red stitching and white jacket on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a black/yellow Chinese design sweater, white Alyx chest utility bag, gold turtleneck, and grey pants on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing blue/purple faux fur top-hat, white lace star pattern shirt, dark green and purple plaid dress, yellow/black plaid bag, and army green boots with a plastic tote bag on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a red/orange vintage shirt, grey pants, black boots on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a black/red/cream sweater with Chinese characters, black rainbow font pants and white fan earrings on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a colorful purple pattern blazer, semi-circle grey/purple bag, merlot skirt, and pink boots on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing an olive colored outfit with brown graphic sweater and black bucket hat on March 28, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing an all-white outfit with wide brim hat, crop blazer, linen skirt and black heels and bag on March 28, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a black knit sweater, navy/green/teal pattern dress, clear bag, and black boots on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a grey coat, cream collared shirt with brown tie, black pants and bag with gold hoop earrings on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a grey blazer, black outfit and sweater, black bag and shoes on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

Neiman Marcus Opening in Hudson Yards NYC

Glitz, Glamour, and Luxury. New York City is a global hub for all of the above and more. And in true New Yorker spirit, it would only make sense if the luxury market became more and more competitive with it’s newest addition to the city. Apparently, the majority of us have been shopping wrong. It’s not enough to just go in and out of a store anymore, at least, that’s what we believe Neiman Marcus CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck had in mind when christening the group’s latest store. We’ve always heard it’s not the destination but the journey – yet did we ever think we would apply these words of wisdom to retail?

On March 15, Neiman Marcus opened its newest flagship store at NYC’s ultra exclusive Hudson Yards. In what may come as a surprise to many, this is Neiman’s debut in New York City – and just as expected, it arrived with style. With 188,000-square-feet, the store spans across the 5th, 6th and 7th floors in the seven story one million square foot shopping complex. Completely reinventing our typical retail therapy sessions.  Neiman Marcus is also known as the parent organization of the infamous Bergdorf Goodman in Midtown. As Berdgorf’s has long reigned supreme in NYC shopping, Mr. Raemdonck set out to immerse customers in an interactive cutting edge shopping experience at Hudson Yards. Not only can customers shop from their favorite brand name designers, but they can also enjoy a beauty salon, spa, a pop up florist, tastings, and even its very own kitchen. And it promises nothing short of complete magic for all that enter the store.

My personal favorite stop at the store? Definitely the chocolate shop! It’s not every day I can make a stop by Louis Vuitton and then immediately score some chocolate and wine! Neiman Marcus Hudson Yards has the recipe down to a T for a beautiful day. And it’s only getting better. It’s planned to also be a destination for concerts, fashion shows, book tours and more! The store is a genius tactic to get people to visit Neiman Marcus regardless of whether or not they intended to shop around because once you get in — you’re guaranteed to be there for hours!

Image courtesy of: HUDSON YARDS New York

MB&F’S Latest Timepiece: The Legacy Machine FlyingT

Innovation for the Swiss watchmaker is coming in seven-year cycles. On the seventh year the Legacy Machine collection was established, the first M.A.D. Gallery opened in Geneva which also opened the door to the MB&F co-creations. After another seven-year cycle, we get to experience an exciting, new direction towards horological evolution. Legacy Machine FlyingT (LM FlyingT), the very first three-dimensional womens timepiece, perfectly embodies MB&F’s approach for artful and inventive masterpieces.

Four years ago was when the creative process behind Legacy Machine FlyingT first took shape. It all started when Maximilian Büsser got to thinking about what he could create inspired by the feminine influences that he had throughout his life.“I created MB&F to do what I believe in, making three-dimensional sculptural kinetic art pieces that give the time,” says Büsser. “I was creating for myself, which is the only way we could have made all these crazy and audacious pieces over the years. But at some point there came a desire to create something for the women in my family. I’ve been surrounded by their influence all my life, so I gave myself the challenge to do something for them.”

FlyingT is characterized by a white gold circular case; a lofty cambered bezel; sleek, extended lugs and an array of diamonds. A raised, opulent, orbicular dome of sapphire crystal ascends from the bezel. Sheltered within the dome is a moderately rounded dial plate thats base is pure black and coated by stretched lacquer as well as layers of luminescent diamonds.

At the core of the LM FlyingT engine, encircled by an opening in the dial plate, is a grand flying tourbillon that oscillates at a rate of 2.5Hz (18,000vph). The tourbillon, which proudly stands above the engine, projects a kinetic, dynamic column that halts right before the peak of the sapphire crystal dome. Atop the upper part of the tourbillon cage lays a sole diamond that revolves simultaneously with the flying tourbillon as it illuminates the dazzling light of the finely cut stone.

The black or white lacquer dial displays the hours and minutes with blued gold serpentine hands. Tilted to a 50° angle, the wearer is the only one capable of reading the time; this demonstrates the familiar conveyance that is brought about from the personal qualities of LM FlyingT. The case back of the watch reveals the automatic winding rotor that has taken the form of a three-dimensional red-gold sun with jutting rays, which offers four days of power reserve.

Legacy Machine FlyingT is brimming with feminine and maternal influences that have made an impact in Maximilian Büsser’s life. States Büsser, “I wanted LM FlyingT to possess the epitome of femininity as reflected by the women in my life, particularly my mother. It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality. The column-like structure of the flying tourbillon was very important to me as I felt very strongly that women form the pillar of humanity. At the same time, there is another layer of meaning coming in from the sun-shaped rotor, which incorporates the element of life-giving, a source of sustenance which we gravitate towards and around.”

FlyingT is available in three separate editions, all of which are in white gold and set with an array of diamonds. The three editions of FlyingT are as follows: dial plate and case both fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds, dial plate and case both fully set with baguette-cut diamonds and black lacquer dial plate with case set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Additional specifications of the launch editions in diamond-set, 18k white gold cases include a central flying 60-second tourbillon; a three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum; a raised dome sapphire crystal case with anti-reflective coating on both sides and sapphire crystal on back; two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right; a dimension of 38.5mm x 20mm; and water resistance up to 30 m / 90’ / 3 atm.

Black Lacquer edition:

168 stones (120 on the case, 21 on the buckle, 1 on top of the tourbillon cage and 26 for the crowns). About 1.7ct.

Paved diamond-set edition:

558 stones (390 on the dial, 120 on the case, 21 on the buckle, 1 on top of the tourbillon cage and 26 for the crowns). About 3.5 ct.

Baguette diamonds edition:

294-baguette diamonds and 3 stones (134-baguette diamonds on the dial, 124-baguette diamonds on the case, 12-baguette diamonds on the buckle, 24-baguette diamonds and 2 stones for the crowns, 1 stone on top of the tourbillon cage). About 8.2 ct.

Images and video courtesy of: MB&F

Christie’s Spring 2019 Magnificent Jewels Sale

On April 16th Christie’s auction house will be offering a collection of magnificent gems and jewelry during a sale at their New York location as well as a concurring Jewels Online sale from April 10 to April 17/18.

Shown in the above featured image from left to right, “PROPERTY OF A LADY, FANCY PINK DIAMOND RING OF 6.11 CARATS, Estimate: $1,200,000 – $1,500,000; PROPERTY OF A PRIVATE COLLECTOR, FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND TWIN-STONE RING OF 3.06 AND 2.61 CARATS, Estimate: $6,000,000 – $8,000,000; PROPERTY OF A LADY, RECTANGULAR-CUT DIAMOND RING OF 16.33 CARATS, D COLOR, POTENTIALLY INTERNALLY FLAWLESS, TYPE IIA, Estimate: $1,200,000 – $2,200,000.”

The upcoming auction of over 285 lots includes an assortment of signed pieces from some of the industries most profound jewelers including Cartier, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany and Company, and Bulgari, among others. The brilliant jewels consist of a collection made up of unique gemstones, colored diamonds, and colorless diamonds. Estimates range from $10,000 to more than $6,000,000 per each individual lot.

The auction is said to include three D color diamonds, which are over 15-carats in weight, one such lot is a 16.69 carat Marquise-cut Diamond Ring from The Collection of Elizabeth Stafford, which is D color, Type IIa, and potentially internally flawless according to Christie’s; the estimate is $1,200,000 to $1,800,000 USD. However, the true treasure of this auction is a remarkably rare pair of Twin-Stone Fancy Vivid Blue Diamonds of 3.06 and 2.61 carats encased in a ring, which is estimated to fetch between $6,000,000 and $8,000,000 USD.

One of our favorite lots is a piece from The Collection of Florence and Herbert Irving features, this Burma Ruby and Diamond Ring of 9.73 carats estimated to fetch between $250,000 and $350,000 USD was crafted by none-other than American Jeweler, Harry Winston. We’ve also come to admire a 18.36 carat, J color, VS2 Cartier Diamond Ring from the Estate of Jean Tailer (estimate $250,000-$350,000 USD).

Modern pieces by Carnet will also grace the auction block along with a Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring of 10.88 carats with an auction estimate of $650,000 to $750,000 USD. Last, but certainly not least, an array of colored diamonds will be offered. A 6.11 carat Fancy Pink Diamond Ring is the piece de la resistance of this category, carrying an auction estimate of $1,200,000 to $1,500,000 USD (shown in featured image). Additional colored diamonds include a Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Pendant of 35.06 carats (estimate of $500,000-$700,000 USD) and a Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Ring of 37.65 carats carrying a ‘low’ auction estimate of $600,000.

A full exhibition of the lots that will be auctioned live and online is going to be displayed at Christie’s 20 Rockefeller Center Galleries from Friday, April 12th through Monday, April 15th. The headliner of the sale is the second part of The Private Collection of Stuart and Cindy Tietze-Hodosh, which is well regarded as one of the most significant collections of Mexican jewelry. Signed pieces will dominate the lots, which make up the
The Jewels Online sale.

Image courtesy of: Christie’s

Meet Francesca Grievson

Meet London-based designer, Francesca Grievson, whose boutique label, Tephi has made a name for itself as a provider of elegant and innovative womenswear. Having studied at both the Oxford Design School and Central St. Martins, Francesca’s passion for design led her to create Tephi in 2009. Initially offering only Bespoke, Tephi has extended their line to offer both Ready-To-Wear and Semi-Bespoke pieces. Now, Francesca’s clothing line has marveled many with its unique style and accompanying accessories. For Tephi’s latest collection, Dutch model Lara Stone had perfectly represented the label’s ‘elegance and originality’ style of clothing by modeling fashionable jumpsuits (seen below).

What initially piqued your interest in design and specifically womenswear? Have you always been interested in fashion?

“From a young age, I was always interested in design – I used to make and adapt so many of my clothes. I loved dressing up as a child and have always had a huge interest in what goes with what and sourcing wonderful pieces, this led to an in interest in fashion design and subsequently going onto study it.”

What are some of the differences in Tephi’s Ready to Wear, Semi-Bespoke and Bespoke dresses?

“Our semi bespoke service is an adaptation of the RTW, often clients would like the pieces, but made to their own measurements with small alterations like a different neckline line or colour. All women’s body shapes and colourings are different and it gives me great pleasure in working to create something that suits and fits perfectly. The fully bespoke service varies, sometimes the client has a god idea of what they would like and often I design something totally from scratch. We make a lot of wedding dresses, which is [a] really enjoyable process – it is a real honour making the dream dress for a client’s big day. “

You originally started off with a focus on bespoke, with that said, how would you describe the evolution to offering both RTW and Bespoke womenswear?

“I have always loved creating a piece of clothing for somebody that fits perfectly to their body and this was something that I felt wasn’t being offered as much, when this became established it seemed like a natural progression to offer clients both options. I couldn’t say which I love more – both RTW and bespoke have amazingly, fulfilling aspects to them.”

How would you describe Tephi’s current collection?

“I have created a capsule collection of jumpsuits this season, which I am super happy with. I wanted to produce the perfect jumpsuit – its feminine, chic and very flattering.”

Take us through a day in the life of Francesca Grievson 

“My studio is in my house that I live in with my boyfriend. I often wake up and go to the gym so that I have got out [of] the house before my day starts. Throughout the day it will be a combination of fittings with clients, fabric sourcing and a couple of hours up in Queens Park with my production team working through the pieces we are currently making. Often I have fittings with people after their work day – we stop appointments at 8pm.”

Do you feel that your British heritage has influenced
the brand?

“Every piece we make is made in England, which is very important to me. Not only do I want to support British production, but it means that I am there everyday to quality control what we are doing. I couldn’t get my head around not overseeing the work we do, so production overseas was never an option. “

What advice would you give to young designers?

“I really stand by quality and timeless designs over trends. I think a lot of people focus too much on what’s current and lose sight of what looks good!”

What is your personal approach when commissioning a bespoke dress? What are the key elements that you look for?

“When doing a bespoke dress the client is the most important person – listening to what they want is essential. With bespoke dresses, we always make a toile of the dress (a mock up in a polyester fabric) this is where a lot of design decisions are made before we cut in the real fabric. When it comes to fabric sourcing for a bespoke piece, I make sure that the client has seen the fabric draped over her body and not just in a small swatch – the fabric is so important and even the smallest difference in shade or texture makes the most enormous difference.”

In addition to dresses, you also have an accessories line, can you tell us more about it and how the idea originally came about?

“Tephi’s luxury garment bags came out of always wanting to [have] a chic and stylish way to carry my dresses. Travelling with a plastic dress bag to carry a beautiful garments didn’t seem right to me, so I saw a gap in the market to make the dream dress bag – it’s really practical as [it] has lots of different compartments for shoes and folded clothes, so [it] works as an essential piece of luggage. The Tephi Washbag was a progression on the accessories as the garment bag was a success – I wanted a washbag that was stylish enough to sit on the bathroom sink looking great and practical enough to fit all your products and bottles standing up – with this, I again, did lots of different compartments so everything has a place.”

Do you have a favourite neighborhood in London? If so, what are some of your favorite things about it?

“I’ve always lived in West London and Notting Hill is a firm favourite, there [it] seems to always be evolving which means it never gets boring. I have to say, I love getting out of London on the weekends, too – I was brought up in the countryside and it’s really where my heart lies.”

Where to next?

“I am very excited about all the brides we are working with at the moment for summer weddings and we have just launched the new collection with Lara Stone as the face of the campaign, which is fantastic. I am also expecting a baby in a month, so on a personal level, that is very exciting!”

Where can we follow you?

“www.tephi.co.uk to sign up to the newsletter and @tephilondon for our Instagram account.”

Images courtesy of Tephi

A Tribute to Karl Lagerfeld: Fendi Women’s Fall/Winter 2019/2020 at Milan Fashion Week

The House of Fendi unveiled Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection on February 21st at Milan Fashion Week. The heartwarming runway display was a breathtaking tribute to one of our generation’s most celebrated designers. Silk foulard, a favorite of Lagerfeld, was a prominent material recurring throughout the show. Lagerfeld was the maison’s Creative Director since 1965, which is widely regarded as one of the longest collaborations between a fashion house and a designer.

“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.” Stated Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director for Fendi’s Men’s Lines and Accessories.

Fendi honored their past Creative Director throughout the show, which commemorated his final Milan Fashion Week collection. Fendi’s Women’s Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection demonstrated Lagerfeld’s dedication to uncompromisingly beautiful, yet simplistic silhouettes.

Fendi’s catwalk prominently featured the designer’s initials “KL” all across the runway. The collection was most notably characterized by high buttoned pointed shirt collars, wallpaper style satin materials, and Lagerfeld’s “Karligraphy” FF logos on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, which originally appeared in his 1981 collection.

The heartwarming show ended under a projection of the words “Love Karl.” Silvia Venturini Fendi stepped on stage to introduce an homage to Lagerfeld by playing scenes from a documentary by Loïc Prigent titled “Karl Lagerfeld Sketches His Life.” The film showed clips which featured Lagerfeld at his first day of work at Fendi in 1965.

Images copyright of Fendi courtesy of LVMH

Paris Fashion Week without Karl Lagerfeld: now what?

For many decades, Karl Lagerfeld has been widely regarded as one of the most influential individuals in the world of fashion. With an outstanding trajectory, Lagerfeld was acclaimed by many as a design genius.

The fashion industry just lost a major icon and idol after the Kaiser of fashion, Karl Lagerfeld passed away on February 19th. Lagerfeld, who had been the creative director of Chanel since 1983, left a legacy of ideals in fashion for future generations. Lagerfeld was born to a wealthy German entrepreneur father and a Swedish mother in 1933. The future designer studied drawing and history at the prestigious Lycee Montaigne in Paris. After working on several sketches to submit to design competitions, he won first place for a coat design alongside Yves Saint Laurent, another fashion icon. Forward past the competition, the young Lagerfeld was hired as an assistant to Pierre Balmain. After three years of direct experience in the fashion industry, he later moved to Jean Patou, where he captained the design of several collections. In 1964, Lagerfeld began designing for Chloé, in which he rapidly moved from designing a few pieces onto a full collection. A couple of years after, in 1967, his long-lasting collaboration with Fendi began.

Lagerfeld’s multi-faceted personality combined with this great talent, created some of the most innovative and impactful collections and trends in the fashion industry. He founded his eponymous label under his own name in 1984, which is now known as one of the most exclusive and acclaimed brands worldwide. Lagerfeld’s creativity couldn’t have been secluded to fashion, he was also an artist at heart and was passionate about photography and film-making. Besides this, Lagerfeld owned several bookstores in Paris and had written many personal pieces as well. His extravagant personality has often left an impactful positive mark on the individuals that crossed his path or were privileged enough to have been mentored by this well-known fashion icon. Following his passing, Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH commented  “I will always remember his immense imagination, his ability to conceive new trends for every season, his inexhaustible energy, the virtuosity of his drawings, his carefully guarded independence, his encyclopedic culture, and his unique wit and eloquence. The death of this dear friend deeply saddens me, my wife and my children. We loved and admired him deeply. Fashion and culture has lost a great inspiration.”

Even though Lagerfeld was born in Germany, he has been associated with Paris for most of his life, the world’s fashion capital. It is undeniable that Lagerfeld’s mark on the fashion industry will never be forgotten, and many people have expressed their deep condolences and admiration toward what is now a legend among the world’s most acclaimed lost fashion idols. Alain Wertheimer, CEO of CHANEL, said: “Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the House of CHANEL’s success throughout the world. Today, not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand.”

Featured Image Credit: Siebbi

Meet Amanda Cronin

Meet Amanda Cronin, the British born Model, Socialite, Brand Ambassador and Founder of the brand Forever Young. We were given the exclusive opportunity to talk all things fashion, travel, and lifestyle with the always stylish London based Influencer.

What are you currently inspired by?

“Strong independent compassionate women, supportive compassionate men, my 22 year old daughter and her amazing friends, aspiring artists, fashionistas, financiers, gallerists, London, my amazing loyal successful hardworking talented friends, my beautiful home in Belgravia, travelling often but not too often that it’s exhausting and prevents me from living in the moment, being financially independent and in control, and being an ambassador and muse for elite British brands.”

How would you describe your personal style?

“My style is simple, elegant, expensive, and fashionable. I’m motivated by what I consider to be fashion and have a deep understanding of what suits my shape, complexion, and feeling at that moment, [as well as] what is appropriate for the occasion. Accessories (i.e. jewellery, shoes, belts and sunglasses) are key to each style looking finished. It’s a feeling… It’s creative and expressive. A woman needs to express herself through clothes, it’s key to her vitality. It’s a performance.”

Take us through a day in the life of Amanda Cronin.

“I wake up not too early and have my breakfast brought in on a tray, [which consists of] eggs, fruit juice, and diet coffee, along with vitamins. I have beauty treatments at home, [including] a Brazilian contour and lymphatic draining massage, then [I] work out with my personal trainer Kosmo or swim 60 laps in the pool or [do] yoga. I read my emails and work through admin, along with my Instagram, website, and brands. I have an investment portfolio, and have many meetings with banks, lawyers, financial advisers, and accountants on a daily basis. I meet with my brand manager, Alex, every few days to work on my brand, website, online store, and collaborate with up and coming brands in fashion and art to partner with. I’m an art collector. I have a Picasso, Miro, and contemporary art by Pauline Amos, [Suling] Wang, Barry Reigate, [and] [Wolfe von Lenkiewicz]. I often have fittings for dresses, or meetings with brands, designers, and beauty therapists. I try to save girls lunches for Fridays as it interrupts the day and it’s a reward for a productive week. I like to go to dinner most evenings and relax over a cocktail in a beautiful club such as Annabels, Harry’s Bar, or the Arts Club. Sundays I make dinner at home, usually Persian dinner with caviar to start an homage to my daughter’s heritage. There is thought behind everything I do, it’s all highly considered so as to be at maximum productivity. Time is very valuable to me. I also develop my daughter who is an aspiring artist at Parsons in New York and [is] currently interning at [the] Gagosian. I speak to her in New York every evening on FaceTime to make sure she is on track and feels supported as a young person in today’s world 3k Miles from home. @sofiayeg“

Who are some of your favorite designers at the moment?

“Alessandra Rich, I have bought heavily every collection [of hers] since day [one]. Gucci big client, Balmain big client, The Elder Statesmen Cashmere, Stephen Webster Jewellery, Fendi Mania collection, Victoria Beckham, Eres Lingerie, [and] Caroline Castigliano couture.” 

Being that you’ve just recently enjoyed skiing trips to Aspen and Sankt Moritz; do you have any tips for looking glamorous on the slopes?

“Take a hat for lunch as helmet hair can be unattractive, a good looking flattering helmet, Mirror Shades, [a] fitted one piece with belts [is] always flattering, black [is] always chic and slimming, flared tight pants slim the legs, layers, strong lips and full makeup as the light in the mountain can leave you looking washed out, sunblock in the form of a makeup, metallics are very fashionable at the moment and work well with the bright sunshine, don’t ski in bad conditions it’s dangerous and impossible to be glamorous, Blue sky only, I like to take an instructor [because] it always looks chic, book the best restaurants in advance and be seen at the coolest spots, [and lastly] don’t drink and ski [it’s] not a good look!”

Being a frequent traveler, what destinations have you enjoyed most and why?

“I enjoy seeing each place and appreciate each special experience. I have loved the Maldives for romance, and bare feet holidays are always so grounding.  Cartagena was very fun at New Year. Russia [is] so interesting and cultural. [The] South of France and Monaco [are] always relaxing and elegant, I have created and enjoyed several homes there. New York and L.A. I enjoy as I have many friends and enjoy the great restaurants and nightlife and of course my daughter is living there in our apartment in Soho. Italy is so beautiful, I always have a wonderful time [there], the food, culture, and shopping [are] excellent. And the Italians are warm and inclusive. Rome, Milan, Porto Fino, and Tuscany [are] all stunning. I love the mountains of France, Switzerland, and Colorado. I have had a ski chalet in Crans-Montana for 10 years. I have been spending some time in Cap Cana in the [Dominican Republic] most recently in the home of a friend. It’s mind blowingly beautiful [there] and I have become obsessed and impressed with the Latin culture.”

Are there any destinations you are dying to see, but have yet to visit?

“More of South America, [as well as] New Zealand, Australia, Canada, I would like to go back to Japan, [and see] more of the US.”

What do you believe sets London apart being your locality of choice?

“I’m from the UK. I grew up in the English Countryside. I’m obsessed with London, it’s the great love of my life. The stunning architecture, the diversity, you never know how each day will unfold; there’s a-surprise waiting every time you step outside of the door. The shops, restaurants, art galleries, music, exhibitions, theatres, private clubs, concerts, and fashion [in] the mighty city of London “the epicentre” – keeping a finger on the pulse is key to staying relevant and current in art, fashion, and music. The laws and feeling of security we have [ensures] equality and freedom at the heart of the jurisdiction. [It’s] a current, relevant, inclusive, progressive city. There are issues as [there are] in all [the] big cities, especially [those involving] poverty and homelessness – we can always do more.”

Do you have any particular tips for those looking to enjoy a trip to London?

“Layered clothing [because] the weather is so changeable. [I enjoy] Seeing the art museums and galleries, [as well as] a good play. A Richard Caring restaurant or club [and] a fab hotel bar [like at] Rosewood Hotel / Lanesborough. Belgravia, my neighbourhood, has delightful shops and restaurants. Drive out to [Cliveden House] for Sunday lunch. Have a spa day at the Corinthian Hotel or [The] Lanesborough. Check out a football match at Emirates stadium or Chelsea in a private box. See what’s on at O2 arena. [I] Re-stock on makeup at Charlotte Tilbury at Harvey Nichols [or go to] Mount St. for shopping [at] Stephen Webster [and] Alessandra rich, [as well as] truffle pizza and pink champagne at The Connaught. Shoot clay pigeons at Ray Ward in West London. Watch some polo [or] ice skating at the Natural History museum or Somerset house at Christmas time. See a movie and have dinner [in] the Lounge cinema at Queensway. Shop for art, antiques and rare furniture in Pimlico Road, [as well as] visiting the Richard young gallery [on] Kensington Church Street.”

Where to next?

“Milan, Paris, Verbier, India, New York, Dominican Republic, Monaco, Florence, Capri, [and] Hotel Du cap [in Antibes].

Where can we follow you?

“@amandacarolinecronin [and] amandacroninforeveryoung.com“

Featured Image Credit: Tedi Grozdanov

A Blanket Life: Aessai has you Covered

It is a bright autumn day with perfect crisp weather, as I find myself walking in Notting Hill, passed the explosion of petunias on the facade of the Churchill Arms, passed the riot of pastels down Portobello market and passed curved street after curved street of the stern white townhouses endemic to this area. My destination is Westbourne Grove, where in between Daylesford and a Goop pop-up shop I am meeting Rebecca Kramer to discuss her lifestyle brand Aessai. Kramer wears a stunning houndstooth poncho in bone ivory and indigo-navy merino, a bestseller from her first collection. Kramer, as it becomes readily apparent, is something of a modern renaissance women. Born in La Rioja, Argentina to Austrian and Welsh parents, medical school brought her to Paris. While pursuing a PhD in infectious diseases, she modeled on the side for the likes of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Calvin Klein and Phillip Morris. Although Kramer did not focus on modeling, she describes her modeling career as ‘very 90’s’ with an easy laugh. In 2006 she found herself in the U.K. working with HIV/AIDS charity ‘The Food Change’ and as a consulting nutritionist addressing eating disorders in patients.

Aessai is a phonetic play on ‘Essay’, Kramer explains. Essay is a word more likely encountered in not so fond recollections of school days, and not a word one would normally associate with a lifestyle brand. And yet as we consider the graphic rendering of interwoven threads that make up the Aessai logo, it is clear that no word is better to describe her vision of the brand. We understand an essay to be a short piece of writing offering a theme or a critique of a theme. Essay owes its entomological lineage to the Latin word ‘exigere’ which means to ascertain or to weigh. Through Aessai, Kramer asks what should the modern lifestyle brand be? Her argument is that it should be a blanket, a story of many interwoven threads that are greater than the sum of their parts.

‘Blankets are a way of life, actually,’ Kramer says with a grin, sincerity radiates from her along with the calm assurance that she will bring you around to this way of thinking, too. The brand is just celebrating its first birthday. Kramer founded the brand in 2017, after a Eureka moment in a Los Angeles hotel room. There she encountered a throw blanket that triggered a whole host of childhood memories of Argentine nights spent by the seaside. ‘The beaches are cold so you have to wear a poncho or blanket over your bikini’, she recalls. As avid fans of seasonally inappropriate trips to the beach, we know the type. On the back of the throw blanket was a label proudly stating Manos del Uruguay.

The Uruguayan collective, Manos del Uruguay was founded in 1968. It is considered one of the pioneers of Fair Trade. Specializing in yarn production, Manos del Uruguay works to preserve local artisanal craftsmanship and bolsters the economic independence of the women engaged in these crafts whose skills are undervalued and under-marketed in the production of these goods. Manos del Uruguay is no stranger to working with fashion labels having worked with Chanel and Stella McCartney among others who value the heritage and quality of skilled, traditional crafts. For Kramer, integrating the collective into her value chain highlights the social consciousness she wants Aessai to embody. While her featherweight chic knits hold up on their own design merits, the Aessai Woman she describes as someone who really cares about community and prioritizes well-made and socially sustainable products. She explains that despite living abroad for many years, her own roots are in Latin America in the small native community of La Rioja, Argentina. It is her intention and vision to hold onto those roots.

Kramer regularly visits the collectives, drawing inspiration and feedback from them. Maintaining these lines of communication open between production and consumer is another pillar Kramer strives for in her goal of total brand transparency. We ask her what the collectives think of us: the consumers, after all rural South America is miles away from West London. Do they have walls of press clippings from French and British vogue in their ateliers like their counterparts in the fashion capitals of the world?

‘Yes, they are very proud of their work,’ she tells us.

Aessai’s first collection of blankets and wraps share the same easy glamour of its founder. The muted neutrals of Uruguay and flat patterns echo tribal looms. Rather than looking anthropological or like they belong in the closet of your favourite but decidedly alternative spinster aunt, they recombine in an appealing and contemporary way that suits the urban citizen of the world. The next collection is more colourful drawing from more of a UK aesthetic.

‘There is something about the UK that brings the eccentric out of you. You can be bold. I feel entitled to be myself, and you need colours.’ For Aessai being comfortable and being chic are not exclusively mutual concepts. The market would agree. As we see more of a backlash against the age old adage that to suffer is to be beautiful heels are ceding ground to designer sneakers or recycled plastic flats and athleisure becomes paramount. Kramer proves that wearing a poncho or blanket can be a very chic process indeed.

Alongside the ponchos and blankets, Aessai also works with an indigenous tribe to produce a small range of handbags that include a messenger, and a supermarket shopper net. The Wichi tribe is a hunter-gatherer group that calls the Chaco region of Argentina home. The women of this group traditionally weave and produce chaguar textiles, from the fine but sturdy fibres of chaguar plants (Bromelia Hieronymi is a plant of the Bromeliad family for those greenhouse enthusiasts amongst you). These flat weaves often incorporate tribal geometries that hold shamanic powers. These abstract patterns are composed through the observation of animal markings in the earth. Like many other unique communities and ecosystems the Wichi are threatened by the ecological damages sustained through deforestation and commercial farming.

We discuss the future of Aessai. The brand is available at a number of prominent retailers, such as London’s impossibly fashionable Browns, The Conran Shop and chic Chelsea concept store-restaurant Blue Bird. Internationally, affectionados can find Aessai at the Beijing annex of Galeries Lafayette and Peri A in Los Angeles. In keeping pace with the increasingly mobile client, Aessai also built out an e-commerce platform (with everyone’s favourite feature: free international shipping!) and has readily adapted the Instagram shopping model. Kramer is excited to expand the brand’s awareness, and mentions discussions with Carl Hansen and Son for an upcoming collaboration.

‘I love collaborations. It’s great to share a mutual inspiration and help each other do something great together.’ The 110 year old Danish furniture company has always done architectural and designer collaborations with a knack for picking rising stars, showcasing the works of seminal Danish modern designers J. Wegner and Kaare Klint. Denmark is also the country that has brought us ‘hygge’ the Danish concept of contentment through cosines that has been making its trendy rounds at all levels of the design world since 2015. Far from showing market saturation, we see signs of hygge less as a micro-trend and more as evidence of real societal shift. After all, why shouldn’t life be like a blanket?