Leaf Greener: “Fashion Industry Needs to Slow Down”

Liberty, Enthusiasm, Aesthetics, Fantasy. Unlike traditional print magazines, the LEAF WeChat magazine doesn’t follow rules in terms of format and frequency. Nor does the magazine discuss fashion trends and gossip. “It’s about design theories, [and] about ethics,” Leaf Greener said in our interview. “We believe in slow fashion and publish articles whenever we find right angles and themes.”

Leaf Greener, the former Senior Fashion Editor of Elle China and Founder of LEAF WeChat Magazine, is a Chinese fashion influencer and creative consultant with more than 300,000 followers on Instagram. A rising star in the Chinese fashion industry, Greener has shown her talent in not only styling modern chic looks, but also in discovering the values behind fashion designs.

After graduating with a degree in fashion design, Greener didn’t choose to pursue a career as a fashion designer. “I was more interested in doing the work behind the scene, like writing articles,” she said. In 2007, she decided to work for Elle China and made the move from Beijing to Shanghai where the headquarter’s of the magazine is based. Having lived and worked in two of the best-known cities in China, Greener told me that she felt like the vibes between the two cities were just so different. “It could be like two countries sometimes,” she said. She later explained that this difference was revealed to her as a versatility of Chinese culture between the North and South.

As a fashion journalist whose work has been featured in publications such as Vogue, New York Magazine, New York Times, and Elle, Greener expressed her concern about fashion journalism today in our interview. “Journalism [has] vanished, fashion [has] failed, and we are living in a fake-news era,” said Greener. “It makes me sad.” She added, “We can’t write something without responsibility, just as jokes.” The media, in her opinion, is a vital means of education. “Before, we knew things by talking to people around us and reading; now, we learn from the TV and social media.” She’s aware of the need to make fashion more approachable through the media. As she said, there’s a gap regarding the notion of fashion between insiders and outsiders.

When discussing her experience in fashion journalism, she stated: “I was trained as a fashion designer at first, [so] I know how the fashion industry works. Later on, as a fashion editor, I got to know where the creativity of fashion comes from.” How has Greener’s stint at Elle China from 2008 to 2014 influenced her ideas about fashion journalism and the industry as a whole? “I was trained professionally. Thanks to the training, I have been equipped with the skill, taste, and knowledge. [And] I really appreciate the chance to work with creative artists and other editors.”

In 2015, Greener founded the LEAF WeChat magazine and switched her focus to digital media. “Our magazine is based on [a] social media platform,” she said, “and I want to reach out to [a larger] audience.” When asked about the role of social media in the world of fashion nowadays, she said, “it’s more democratic.” However, she pointed out that luxury businesses today haven’t fully taken advantage of digital platforms and social media. “There [is so much] fake news and a lot of brands are focusing on the quantity not quality,” she said, “but luxury is kind of exclusive and private, which is focused on the quality not quantity.” Yet her confidence in the industry was also conveyed as she continued. “It’s a process. Luxury [businesses] may develop too fast and they need some time to be more cautious.”

Having traveled around the world and appeared in many photographs at ultra prestigious fashion events, Greener shared with us her personal style, philosophy, and favorite cities. “My style is pretty playful and I enjoy playing with my wardrobe,” said Greener. She attributed her unique personal style to her own personality and interpretation of social connections. “I [dress] like my personality, which has multiple layers. And when I go to different social occasions, I will dress differently based [on] my connections with [the] people present.” In terms of the places she has enjoyed visiting most, Greener has given her heart to Rome, Tuscany, Paris, and Shanghai. One thing she must do whenever she goes to a city is to visit the food market there and experience the local culture. Greener is also passionate about visiting local museums, galleries, and churches. Earlier on the day of our interview, Greener had just returned home to Shanghai from a trip and would soon hit the road again to attend a festival that supports new talent in the fashion industry held in Hyères, a prominent city in Southern France. Greener mentioned it would be her third visit to Hyeres, and that last year she was one of the judges for the festival.

In the end, Greener said that she is now kind of in an “in-and-out” status regarding the fashion business. Recognizing the fact that fashion is the second most polluting industry globally, she advocates the idea of slow fashion and hopes more people won’t just express sentiment to “protect our planet”, but act upon it. “I am glad that I can choose something that is very meaningful and helpful for the society,” said Greener.

Follow Leaf Greener on her Instagram Account and personal website.

Images Courtesy of: LEAF WeChat Magazine

A Peter Marino Designed Chanel Flagship Boutique Opens in Seoul

Located in Apgujeong-dong, which is well regarded as one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in South Korea, Chanel’s newly-opened Seoul flagship store stands out as an identifiable abstraction of the international brand’s icon in a prime, urban surrounding. The opening of which marks the 10th boutique across the country.

Architect, Peter Marino, who has been regularly commissioned by Chanel to design boutiques in New York, Paris, Tokyo and London, solved another challenge of how to represent modern luxury in a structural delicacy. Covered in black glass and lava stone, the new boutique reveals classic black-and-white elegance that is the embodiment of Chanel’s emblematic logo.

Minimalistic and futuristic, the monolithic Chanel Seoul boutique inherits Coco Chanel’s signature, black-and-white tweed, and is recreated with modern chic. Instead of depicting the iconography as an integral unit, Marino decomposed the symbol to several radical elements and reassembled them in an abstracted way. The representative tone of black and white can be observed in the contrast between the monolithic body and LED-illuminated logos on the corners of the façade. The spirit of Chanel, simple but versatile, is expressed in the ubiquitous presence of oblongs seen from seemingly moveable lava stones on the surface to caved-in glass windows.

The spacious seven-floor building is not only a striking design on the outside, but on the inside, as well. Unlike the exterior, the inside is furnished with ivory colored floors and an articulated display of lighting. While ready-to-wear clothes, handbags, shoes and jewelry are placed on the three lower floors, distinguished shoppers can also enjoy private spaces on the upper floors for receptions and special events. Staircases polished in a white tone and divided with charcoal railings connect the many floors of the boutique. Artwork created by renowned artists from across the globe are interspersed among trending fashion styles inside the building. On the ground floor, two commissioned works-fan-motored fabric pillows by Pablo Reinoso and mounted gold pearl beads by Paola Pivi are displayed. Both works fit perfectly in the settings consisting of the brand’s spring/summer collections. In the private reception room on the top floor, works by Peter Marino himself, Andrew Lord, and Ned Vena contribute to an undisturbed moment of serenity and intimacy.

Image Credit: © Tim Franco courtesy of Chanel

Over the Moon with Makenzie Moon Phelan

Makenzie Moon Phelan in the Studio, all images courtesy of the artist, 2019.

The Extravagant discusses art, culture and makeup with Makenzie Moon Phelan, NYC based artist and socialite, and daughter of wickedly fun art world patrons Amy and John Phelan. Drawing from a wide range of cultural references, we dive into her work as a makeup artist and her contemporary art practice:

What drew you to the world of make-up?  What do you feel is the role of the make-up artist and how does your fine art background (i.e. painting) inform your practice?

“Since I was young, I have been interested in both fine art and make-up for cinema or fashion.  Before parties and events, my mom and her friends would have me apply their make-up just at the age of seven, and I realized this is something I really enjoyed creatively. Creating and being around Contemporary Art heavily influences my make-up practice.  From thinking about how palettes and materials work together, to the physical application of pigment is so painterly.”

What inspires you, where do you draw inspiration from?  We noticed Stephen Hawking on your Insta, who inspires you?

“In my opinion, everyone’s view of the world is very different up to the point where my blue could be your green. I think how different people view our world is what has shaped and shifted basic human knowledge and understanding. Whether it be philosophers, artists, scientist, or famous mathematicians; had they not shared their personal world [inside of their head] with the public, our universe would lack so much color and expansiveness.”

“I am really inspired by the artists Will Cotton, Marilyn Minter, Marc Dennis, and Richard Phillips due to their fine craft. Currently I’m hooked on this brilliant Italian artist Paola Pivi. I think the mind and methods behind her works are beautiful.”

“I am also really inspired by trends in decades. I love the 60’s, especially Edie Sedgwick, and I also am fascinated with 18th Century aesthetic. Adding contemporary palettes to an old time period is really fun for me.”

Ornamentation on an anthropological level exists throughout human history, what is the role of make-up in society in your opinion?

“Makeup is a form of self expression. It also allows people the ability to enhance their natural beauty by using different color palettes, glitter, symbols and light diffusion.”

What is your dream commission as a make-up artist?  Is it cinema, is it runway, etc;

“I feel like my work is multi-faceted, so I would be thrilled to work in film or runway, but my dream project would be any form of collaboration or work with Ve Neill [of Beetlejuice and Hunger Game fame] one day. She is an extremely powerful woman in the makeup industry who’s work has influenced me since I was a little kid.”

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What trends do you love in make-up and obversely what do you dislike?  Favourite brands? Favourite makeup artists?

“My favorite trend in makeup is a basic cat eye with a red lip. I usually never leave my house without a cat eye. It’s a classic yet sexy look. I’m also really into the 60’s makeup trends. I think the big brows, dark sculpted eyes and dramatic lashes is a very feminine and playful look. I also love drag makeup. I’ve learned some of the best techniques through the drag community when I was living in London.”

“I’m not a huge fan of the heavy contour look, or any kind of makeup that covers freckles. I think makeup should always enhance one’s natural and inner beauty.”

“My favorite makeup artist in the beauty industry of all time is Charlotte Tilbury, that is a person I would also love to work with. In the special effects realm my favorite artist is Ve Neill. Pertaining to music, it is hard for me to pin down a favorite band, but my favorite musician is Marilyn Manson. I think he is brilliant, and a walking piece of art. There’s so much more to him than what lays on the surface.”

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What is the relationship between art and fashion?

“Both art and fashion are an extension of an individual’s creativity.  Creating or collecting art is an expression of self, just as fashion is.”

When did you become interested in art?

“From a very young age I have been creating art!  I grew up in a household that not only welcomed creativity, but championed it.  I have always been surrounded by incredible works of contemporary art, and I feel very fortunate that in most cases I know or am friends with the artist that has made them.”

Tell us about your own work as an artist? What projects have you taken part of? What’s your favourite media to work in (other than cosmetics)

“I love working with oil on canvas, and have had private instruction by some incredible artists such as Marc Dennis and Will Cotton. When I was younger, the problems I faced growing up (my personal inner turmoil) created a lot of noise in my head, I started writing poetry at a very young age as an outlet, then began illustrating the emotions behind my poetry and it evolved from there.”

How do you navigate between a cultural patron, an artist, and a muse?

“I don’t see these as being separate parts of my personality.  I think they all relate to each other, and I am just thrilled I can be part of a creative community in all of these capacities. People inspire me on a daily basis, and I feel happy I can inspire others as well.”

How does growing up in a family of art collectors impact your own aesthetic preferences?

“Growing up around some of the best examples of contemporary art is an incredible education.  Not only do I get to learn about new artists, but I am able to study the depth behind the individual behind the work, and learn about the material process of an artist. It also really helped me embrace my individuality as a person, leaving me unafraid to push boundaries with the way I dressed, or wore my makeup. Growing up around art the way I did also inspired me to let go of any fear of being experimental.”

Without any limitations tell us five artists or works of art you’d love to see in your dream collection.

1. One [of] Paola Pivi’s colorful feathered (life size) Polar bears and a piece from her “Zebras” series 
2. One of Marilyn Manson’s water color pieces 
3. Anything by Marc Rothko
4. One of Will Cotton’s Cake Sculptures
5. A Donald Judd “Stacks”

Are you affiliated with any institutions, foundations, or organizations?

“I just moved back to New York City, and am exploring new opportunities. As of right now I am affiliated [with] my family’s foundation. The Phelan Family Foundation believes that all people deserve the opportunity to succeed. To accomplish its mission, the Foundation funds a broad range of causes including education, the arts, health care, military personnel, and vulnerable populations. The Foundation seeks to address community needs at all levels—be it access to clean water, safe shelter and nutritious food, or education and training that unleashes the potential for economic prosperity. It also seeks to effect lasting change and measurable outcomes, while maintaining the Phelans’ sense of compassion and gratitude to the world.”

Having lived in many different places: where is home, literally and philosophically?

“I am currently based in New York, which is where I grew up. New York City is home for me.  I’ve spent time living in London and Los Angeles, but I recently moved back to NYC after finishing a program in special effects makeup on the West coast.  I also spend a lot of time in Palm Beach, FL and Aspen, CO with my family.”

What are some of your favourite places to visit in the world, what shouldn’t we miss?  What are some of your favourite art world or cultural events?

“Every summer I look forward to attending the ArtCrush events for the Aspen Art Museum, an event hosted by my amazing Mother, Amy Phelan. My favorite places I’ve traveled to though are Dubai, Chiang Mai, Jaipur, and Kyoto.”

Follow more of Makenzie Moon Phelan’s adventures on Instagram at:
@Moonefx @Kenziemooner

The Best Street Style Photos From Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020

Located in Xintiandi where the voice of youth thrives, Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 kicked off on March 27th and showcased a vigorous blend of designs from new Chinese talents like Susan Fang and Wanbing Huang. This season, show-goers expressed their distinctive use of culture and art by remixing eastern elements with modern chic. It’s refreshing to see how elegant women’s styles were represented in different looks such as a flowery blazer paired with a lace-trimmed cord skirt. The sweater trend was also spotted in versatile forms ranging from loose embroidered knitwear to vividly printed sweater-shirts. Besides global trends captured on and off the runways, the use of Chinese traditional iconography reminds us of the 21st-century zeitgeist: strength lies in difference.

Here are some selected street styles from stylish guests who attended Labelhood, which focuses on promoting independent Chinese designers.

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing colorful jewelry and a white turtleneck with red stitching and white jacket on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a black/yellow Chinese design sweater, white Alyx chest utility bag, gold turtleneck, and grey pants on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing blue/purple faux fur top-hat, white lace star pattern shirt, dark green and purple plaid dress, yellow/black plaid bag, and army green boots with a plastic tote bag on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a red/orange vintage shirt, grey pants, black boots on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a black/red/cream sweater with Chinese characters, black rainbow font pants and white fan earrings on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a colorful purple pattern blazer, semi-circle grey/purple bag, merlot skirt, and pink boots on March 30, 2019 in Shanghai, China (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing an olive colored outfit with brown graphic sweater and black bucket hat on March 28, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing an all-white outfit with wide brim hat, crop blazer, linen skirt and black heels and bag on March 28, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a black knit sweater, navy/green/teal pattern dress, clear bag, and black boots on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a grey coat, cream collared shirt with brown tie, black pants and bag with gold hoop earrings on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

A guest is seen on the street attending Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week A/W 2019/2020 wearing a grey blazer, black outfit and sweater, black bag and shoes on March 29, 2019 in Shanghai, China. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)

Neiman Marcus Opening in Hudson Yards NYC

Glitz, Glamour, and Luxury. New York City is a global hub for all of the above and more. And in true New Yorker spirit, it would only make sense if the luxury market became more and more competitive with it’s newest addition to the city. Apparently, the majority of us have been shopping wrong. It’s not enough to just go in and out of a store anymore, at least, that’s what we believe Neiman Marcus CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck had in mind when christening the group’s latest store. We’ve always heard it’s not the destination but the journey – yet did we ever think we would apply these words of wisdom to retail?

On March 15, Neiman Marcus opened its newest flagship store at NYC’s ultra exclusive Hudson Yards. In what may come as a surprise to many, this is Neiman’s debut in New York City – and just as expected, it arrived with style. With 188,000-square-feet, the store spans across the 5th, 6th and 7th floors in the seven story one million square foot shopping complex. Completely reinventing our typical retail therapy sessions.  Neiman Marcus is also known as the parent organization of the infamous Bergdorf Goodman in Midtown. As Berdgorf’s has long reigned supreme in NYC shopping, Mr. Raemdonck set out to immerse customers in an interactive cutting edge shopping experience at Hudson Yards. Not only can customers shop from their favorite brand name designers, but they can also enjoy a beauty salon, spa, a pop up florist, tastings, and even its very own kitchen. And it promises nothing short of complete magic for all that enter the store.

My personal favorite stop at the store? Definitely the chocolate shop! It’s not every day I can make a stop by Louis Vuitton and then immediately score some chocolate and wine! Neiman Marcus Hudson Yards has the recipe down to a T for a beautiful day. And it’s only getting better. It’s planned to also be a destination for concerts, fashion shows, book tours and more! The store is a genius tactic to get people to visit Neiman Marcus regardless of whether or not they intended to shop around because once you get in — you’re guaranteed to be there for hours!

Image courtesy of: HUDSON YARDS New York

MB&F’S Latest Timepiece: The Legacy Machine FlyingT

Innovation for the Swiss watchmaker is coming in seven-year cycles. On the seventh year the Legacy Machine collection was established, the first M.A.D. Gallery opened in Geneva which also opened the door to the MB&F co-creations. After another seven-year cycle, we get to experience an exciting, new direction towards horological evolution. Legacy Machine FlyingT (LM FlyingT), the very first three-dimensional womens timepiece, perfectly embodies MB&F’s approach for artful and inventive masterpieces.

Four years ago was when the creative process behind Legacy Machine FlyingT first took shape. It all started when Maximilian Büsser got to thinking about what he could create inspired by the feminine influences that he had throughout his life.“I created MB&F to do what I believe in, making three-dimensional sculptural kinetic art pieces that give the time,” says Büsser. “I was creating for myself, which is the only way we could have made all these crazy and audacious pieces over the years. But at some point there came a desire to create something for the women in my family. I’ve been surrounded by their influence all my life, so I gave myself the challenge to do something for them.”

FlyingT is characterized by a white gold circular case; a lofty cambered bezel; sleek, extended lugs and an array of diamonds. A raised, opulent, orbicular dome of sapphire crystal ascends from the bezel. Sheltered within the dome is a moderately rounded dial plate thats base is pure black and coated by stretched lacquer as well as layers of luminescent diamonds.

At the core of the LM FlyingT engine, encircled by an opening in the dial plate, is a grand flying tourbillon that oscillates at a rate of 2.5Hz (18,000vph). The tourbillon, which proudly stands above the engine, projects a kinetic, dynamic column that halts right before the peak of the sapphire crystal dome. Atop the upper part of the tourbillon cage lays a sole diamond that revolves simultaneously with the flying tourbillon as it illuminates the dazzling light of the finely cut stone.

The black or white lacquer dial displays the hours and minutes with blued gold serpentine hands. Tilted to a 50° angle, the wearer is the only one capable of reading the time; this demonstrates the familiar conveyance that is brought about from the personal qualities of LM FlyingT. The case back of the watch reveals the automatic winding rotor that has taken the form of a three-dimensional red-gold sun with jutting rays, which offers four days of power reserve.

Legacy Machine FlyingT is brimming with feminine and maternal influences that have made an impact in Maximilian Büsser’s life. States Büsser, “I wanted LM FlyingT to possess the epitome of femininity as reflected by the women in my life, particularly my mother. It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality. The column-like structure of the flying tourbillon was very important to me as I felt very strongly that women form the pillar of humanity. At the same time, there is another layer of meaning coming in from the sun-shaped rotor, which incorporates the element of life-giving, a source of sustenance which we gravitate towards and around.”

FlyingT is available in three separate editions, all of which are in white gold and set with an array of diamonds. The three editions of FlyingT are as follows: dial plate and case both fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds, dial plate and case both fully set with baguette-cut diamonds and black lacquer dial plate with case set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Additional specifications of the launch editions in diamond-set, 18k white gold cases include a central flying 60-second tourbillon; a three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum; a raised dome sapphire crystal case with anti-reflective coating on both sides and sapphire crystal on back; two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right; a dimension of 38.5mm x 20mm; and water resistance up to 30 m / 90’ / 3 atm.

Black Lacquer edition:

168 stones (120 on the case, 21 on the buckle, 1 on top of the tourbillon cage and 26 for the crowns). About 1.7ct.

Paved diamond-set edition:

558 stones (390 on the dial, 120 on the case, 21 on the buckle, 1 on top of the tourbillon cage and 26 for the crowns). About 3.5 ct.

Baguette diamonds edition:

294-baguette diamonds and 3 stones (134-baguette diamonds on the dial, 124-baguette diamonds on the case, 12-baguette diamonds on the buckle, 24-baguette diamonds and 2 stones for the crowns, 1 stone on top of the tourbillon cage). About 8.2 ct.

Images and video courtesy of: MB&F

Christie’s Spring 2019 Magnificent Jewels Sale

On April 16th Christie’s auction house will be offering a collection of magnificent gems and jewelry during a sale at their New York location as well as a concurring Jewels Online sale from April 10 to April 17/18.

Shown in the above featured image from left to right, “PROPERTY OF A LADY, FANCY PINK DIAMOND RING OF 6.11 CARATS, Estimate: $1,200,000 – $1,500,000; PROPERTY OF A PRIVATE COLLECTOR, FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND TWIN-STONE RING OF 3.06 AND 2.61 CARATS, Estimate: $6,000,000 – $8,000,000; PROPERTY OF A LADY, RECTANGULAR-CUT DIAMOND RING OF 16.33 CARATS, D COLOR, POTENTIALLY INTERNALLY FLAWLESS, TYPE IIA, Estimate: $1,200,000 – $2,200,000.”

The upcoming auction of over 285 lots includes an assortment of signed pieces from some of the industries most profound jewelers including Cartier, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany and Company, and Bulgari, among others. The brilliant jewels consist of a collection made up of unique gemstones, colored diamonds, and colorless diamonds. Estimates range from $10,000 to more than $6,000,000 per each individual lot.

The auction is said to include three D color diamonds, which are over 15-carats in weight, one such lot is a 16.69 carat Marquise-cut Diamond Ring from The Collection of Elizabeth Stafford, which is D color, Type IIa, and potentially internally flawless according to Christie’s; the estimate is $1,200,000 to $1,800,000 USD. However, the true treasure of this auction is a remarkably rare pair of Twin-Stone Fancy Vivid Blue Diamonds of 3.06 and 2.61 carats encased in a ring, which is estimated to fetch between $6,000,000 and $8,000,000 USD.

One of our favorite lots is a piece from The Collection of Florence and Herbert Irving features, this Burma Ruby and Diamond Ring of 9.73 carats estimated to fetch between $250,000 and $350,000 USD was crafted by none-other than American Jeweler, Harry Winston. We’ve also come to admire a 18.36 carat, J color, VS2 Cartier Diamond Ring from the Estate of Jean Tailer (estimate $250,000-$350,000 USD).

Modern pieces by Carnet will also grace the auction block along with a Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring of 10.88 carats with an auction estimate of $650,000 to $750,000 USD. Last, but certainly not least, an array of colored diamonds will be offered. A 6.11 carat Fancy Pink Diamond Ring is the piece de la resistance of this category, carrying an auction estimate of $1,200,000 to $1,500,000 USD (shown in featured image). Additional colored diamonds include a Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Pendant of 35.06 carats (estimate of $500,000-$700,000 USD) and a Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Ring of 37.65 carats carrying a ‘low’ auction estimate of $600,000.

A full exhibition of the lots that will be auctioned live and online is going to be displayed at Christie’s 20 Rockefeller Center Galleries from Friday, April 12th through Monday, April 15th. The headliner of the sale is the second part of The Private Collection of Stuart and Cindy Tietze-Hodosh, which is well regarded as one of the most significant collections of Mexican jewelry. Signed pieces will dominate the lots, which make up the
The Jewels Online sale.

Image courtesy of: Christie’s

Meet Francesca Grievson

Meet London-based designer, Francesca Grievson, whose boutique label, Tephi has made a name for itself as a provider of elegant and innovative womenswear. Having studied at both the Oxford Design School and Central St. Martins, Francesca’s passion for design led her to create Tephi in 2009. Initially offering only Bespoke, Tephi has extended their line to offer both Ready-To-Wear and Semi-Bespoke pieces. Now, Francesca’s clothing line has marveled many with its unique style and accompanying accessories. For Tephi’s latest collection, Dutch model Lara Stone had perfectly represented the label’s ‘elegance and originality’ style of clothing by modeling fashionable jumpsuits (seen below).

What initially piqued your interest in design and specifically womenswear? Have you always been interested in fashion?

“From a young age, I was always interested in design – I used to make and adapt so many of my clothes. I loved dressing up as a child and have always had a huge interest in what goes with what and sourcing wonderful pieces, this led to an in interest in fashion design and subsequently going onto study it.”

What are some of the differences in Tephi’s Ready to Wear, Semi-Bespoke and Bespoke dresses?

“Our semi bespoke service is an adaptation of the RTW, often clients would like the pieces, but made to their own measurements with small alterations like a different neckline line or colour. All women’s body shapes and colourings are different and it gives me great pleasure in working to create something that suits and fits perfectly. The fully bespoke service varies, sometimes the client has a god idea of what they would like and often I design something totally from scratch. We make a lot of wedding dresses, which is [a] really enjoyable process – it is a real honour making the dream dress for a client’s big day. “

You originally started off with a focus on bespoke, with that said, how would you describe the evolution to offering both RTW and Bespoke womenswear?

“I have always loved creating a piece of clothing for somebody that fits perfectly to their body and this was something that I felt wasn’t being offered as much, when this became established it seemed like a natural progression to offer clients both options. I couldn’t say which I love more – both RTW and bespoke have amazingly, fulfilling aspects to them.”

How would you describe Tephi’s current collection?

“I have created a capsule collection of jumpsuits this season, which I am super happy with. I wanted to produce the perfect jumpsuit – its feminine, chic and very flattering.”

Take us through a day in the life of Francesca Grievson 

“My studio is in my house that I live in with my boyfriend. I often wake up and go to the gym so that I have got out [of] the house before my day starts. Throughout the day it will be a combination of fittings with clients, fabric sourcing and a couple of hours up in Queens Park with my production team working through the pieces we are currently making. Often I have fittings with people after their work day – we stop appointments at 8pm.”

Do you feel that your British heritage has influenced
the brand?

“Every piece we make is made in England, which is very important to me. Not only do I want to support British production, but it means that I am there everyday to quality control what we are doing. I couldn’t get my head around not overseeing the work we do, so production overseas was never an option. “

What advice would you give to young designers?

“I really stand by quality and timeless designs over trends. I think a lot of people focus too much on what’s current and lose sight of what looks good!”

What is your personal approach when commissioning a bespoke dress? What are the key elements that you look for?

“When doing a bespoke dress the client is the most important person – listening to what they want is essential. With bespoke dresses, we always make a toile of the dress (a mock up in a polyester fabric) this is where a lot of design decisions are made before we cut in the real fabric. When it comes to fabric sourcing for a bespoke piece, I make sure that the client has seen the fabric draped over her body and not just in a small swatch – the fabric is so important and even the smallest difference in shade or texture makes the most enormous difference.”

In addition to dresses, you also have an accessories line, can you tell us more about it and how the idea originally came about?

“Tephi’s luxury garment bags came out of always wanting to [have] a chic and stylish way to carry my dresses. Travelling with a plastic dress bag to carry a beautiful garments didn’t seem right to me, so I saw a gap in the market to make the dream dress bag – it’s really practical as [it] has lots of different compartments for shoes and folded clothes, so [it] works as an essential piece of luggage. The Tephi Washbag was a progression on the accessories as the garment bag was a success – I wanted a washbag that was stylish enough to sit on the bathroom sink looking great and practical enough to fit all your products and bottles standing up – with this, I again, did lots of different compartments so everything has a place.”

Do you have a favourite neighborhood in London? If so, what are some of your favorite things about it?

“I’ve always lived in West London and Notting Hill is a firm favourite, there [it] seems to always be evolving which means it never gets boring. I have to say, I love getting out of London on the weekends, too – I was brought up in the countryside and it’s really where my heart lies.”

Where to next?

“I am very excited about all the brides we are working with at the moment for summer weddings and we have just launched the new collection with Lara Stone as the face of the campaign, which is fantastic. I am also expecting a baby in a month, so on a personal level, that is very exciting!”

Where can we follow you?

“www.tephi.co.uk to sign up to the newsletter and @tephilondon for our Instagram account.”

Images courtesy of Tephi

A Tribute to Karl Lagerfeld: Fendi Women’s Fall/Winter 2019/2020 at Milan Fashion Week

The House of Fendi unveiled Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection on February 21st at Milan Fashion Week. The heartwarming runway display was a breathtaking tribute to one of our generation’s most celebrated designers. Silk foulard, a favorite of Lagerfeld, was a prominent material recurring throughout the show. Lagerfeld was the maison’s Creative Director since 1965, which is widely regarded as one of the longest collaborations between a fashion house and a designer.

“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.” Stated Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director for Fendi’s Men’s Lines and Accessories.

Fendi honored their past Creative Director throughout the show, which commemorated his final Milan Fashion Week collection. Fendi’s Women’s Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection demonstrated Lagerfeld’s dedication to uncompromisingly beautiful, yet simplistic silhouettes.

Fendi’s catwalk prominently featured the designer’s initials “KL” all across the runway. The collection was most notably characterized by high buttoned pointed shirt collars, wallpaper style satin materials, and Lagerfeld’s “Karligraphy” FF logos on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, which originally appeared in his 1981 collection.

The heartwarming show ended under a projection of the words “Love Karl.” Silvia Venturini Fendi stepped on stage to introduce an homage to Lagerfeld by playing scenes from a documentary by Loïc Prigent titled “Karl Lagerfeld Sketches His Life.” The film showed clips which featured Lagerfeld at his first day of work at Fendi in 1965.

Images copyright of Fendi courtesy of LVMH

Paris Fashion Week without Karl Lagerfeld: now what?

For many decades, Karl Lagerfeld has been widely regarded as one of the most influential individuals in the world of fashion. With an outstanding trajectory, Lagerfeld was acclaimed by many as a design genius.

The fashion industry just lost a major icon and idol after the Kaiser of fashion, Karl Lagerfeld passed away on February 19th. Lagerfeld, who had been the creative director of Chanel since 1983, left a legacy of ideals in fashion for future generations. Lagerfeld was born to a wealthy German entrepreneur father and a Swedish mother in 1933. The future designer studied drawing and history at the prestigious Lycee Montaigne in Paris. After working on several sketches to submit to design competitions, he won first place for a coat design alongside Yves Saint Laurent, another fashion icon. Forward past the competition, the young Lagerfeld was hired as an assistant to Pierre Balmain. After three years of direct experience in the fashion industry, he later moved to Jean Patou, where he captained the design of several collections. In 1964, Lagerfeld began designing for Chloé, in which he rapidly moved from designing a few pieces onto a full collection. A couple of years after, in 1967, his long-lasting collaboration with Fendi began.

Lagerfeld’s multi-faceted personality combined with this great talent, created some of the most innovative and impactful collections and trends in the fashion industry. He founded his eponymous label under his own name in 1984, which is now known as one of the most exclusive and acclaimed brands worldwide. Lagerfeld’s creativity couldn’t have been secluded to fashion, he was also an artist at heart and was passionate about photography and film-making. Besides this, Lagerfeld owned several bookstores in Paris and had written many personal pieces as well. His extravagant personality has often left an impactful positive mark on the individuals that crossed his path or were privileged enough to have been mentored by this well-known fashion icon. Following his passing, Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH commented  “I will always remember his immense imagination, his ability to conceive new trends for every season, his inexhaustible energy, the virtuosity of his drawings, his carefully guarded independence, his encyclopedic culture, and his unique wit and eloquence. The death of this dear friend deeply saddens me, my wife and my children. We loved and admired him deeply. Fashion and culture has lost a great inspiration.”

Even though Lagerfeld was born in Germany, he has been associated with Paris for most of his life, the world’s fashion capital. It is undeniable that Lagerfeld’s mark on the fashion industry will never be forgotten, and many people have expressed their deep condolences and admiration toward what is now a legend among the world’s most acclaimed lost fashion idols. Alain Wertheimer, CEO of CHANEL, said: “Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the House of CHANEL’s success throughout the world. Today, not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand.”

Featured Image Credit: Siebbi