LET’S GO LOGO: THE NEW EXHIBITION AT LE BON MARCHE, YOU CANNOT MISS OUT

Let’s Go Logo is definitely the exhibition of the moment: over 130 brands have been invited to take part by reinventing their traditional logos and to create an entire new capsule collection for the event. The exhibition is hosted at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche from February 24^th to April 1^st with brand new products coming from key players in the luxury industry like Isabel Marant, Roger Vivier, Céline, Fendi, and Tod’s.

Every type of product, from fashion to beauty to food, gives this exhibition a fresh touch to their logo in items that normally are not sold with that logo. From Evian surfboard to Chanel kayak, the key message of the collection is crystal clear: freedom of expression and extreme creativity make the exhibition a very exclusive event that you cannot miss.

Not just big brands, but also young designers of luxury, beauty labels and home décor brands have joined the event and played with their logo by imagining them in unexpected items from their original offer. Jennifer Cuvillier, head of the style office at Le Bon Marché, explained how this project represents a creative dialog between the department store and the different brands. “The idea was to do something disruptive and playful, not fashion for fashion’s sake. We wanted to create something fun and unexpected and asked brands to reinterpret their logos in a very modern way, what with the street attitude that is very strong right now”.

In this collection, we cannot overlook two very special guests: Off-White and Lola James Harper. Virgil Abloh, Off-White designer, has set up a 500-square-meter space including Wild & the Moon, a pop-up café which was very popular during Paris Fashion Week.

Lola James Harper, a lifestyle label which produces music, beauty products and t-shirts, instead has transformed the first floor of Le Bon Marché into a hotel lobby: including a café, recording studio and a basketball court. The founder, Rami Mekdachi, gives to customers both a place to relax and chill with your friends as well as a little taste of their next plan: opening hotels.

Image credit:  © Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche

10 Years of Christian Siriano

Until February 10th, I never thought I would see Cardi B and Meg Ryan in the same general vicinity as Laverne Cox, Molly Shannon and Whoopi Goldberg. However, there they all were, sitting in the esteemed first rows of Christian Siriano’s 10th anniversary show. Together, the unlikely troupe of celebrities and I (though very, very far away from them) watched as Ashley Greene, Danielle Brooks and Candice Huffine strutted in Siriano’s over-the-top gowns.

NEW YORK, NY – FEBRUARY 10^th: (L-R) Ioni James Conran, Coco Rocha, Laverne Cox, Whoopi Goldberg, Meg Ryan, Molly Shannon, Cardi B, Brad Walsh, Jaimie Alexander, Sarah Rafferty, Nastia Liukin and Patricia Field attend the Christian Siriano fashion show during New York Fashion Week at Grand Lodge on February 10, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images)

Everything about the show was extravagant. The invitations, printed on letter-sized card stock, depicted a luxe Roman-style painting — inevitably the inspiration for the show. The Grand Lodge, the opera-house style Masonic building on 23rd street, served as the venue for the mostly evening-wear collection. The 72-look show had no shortage of rich color, luxurious fabrics, and uniquely-cut garments.  Christian Siriano was definitely celebrating.

In his ten year career, the Project Runway alum is celebrated for changing the face of women’s fashion, promoting inclusivity that was virtually non-existent before him. “I think what’s very important for people to understand is that adding curvy girls on the runway happened because there were finally plus girls at modeling agencies, and now that there are, we use them. Why wouldn’t we? No matter what people say about what we’re doing, I think we’re changing a lot of women’s lives,” he told The Cut. His red carpet success echoes the range of body types found in his shows, too — his gowns have been worn by Christina Hendricks, America Ferrera and Kyra Sedgwick.

Image credit: Eli Schmidt, courtesy of Christian Siriano/ Agentry PR

His entire body of work highlights femininity, but has grown bolder as the now 32-year-old designer matures. His designs have expanded to include standout patterns and more dramatic hemlines, introducing metallics, puffed shoulders, bright floral prints and luxe furs in rich colors into his palette. He has, relatively quietly, done what more established fashion houses are desperately trying to do — stay true to their brand while staying on-trend and timely. His evolution is what keeps stars going to him, and what keeps his name in the minds of fashion personnel.

Siriano grew up with a size sixteen mother, and continues to revolutionize the red carpet by designing gowns for every woman of every shape. But, he does more than just dress them — he dresses them well. He understands the evolution of style and has shown a high fashion IQ throughout his decade-long career. Siriano wants his label everywhere, and that is exactly what will give his work longevity. His eponymous line will be around for decades to come, following a wildly successful first ten years.

Featured Image: Eli Schmidt, courtesy of Christian Siriano/ Agentry PR

The Alexander Wang Gang Gets Serious for FW18

“Everyone knows the celebratory side of me, but you know I am in my thirties right now and I go to work probably more than I go out”.

Alexander Wang took a stand this fashion week, to show people how he’s more than just partying. After years of designing outfits that are made for a casual day out to a mind-blowing party, he decided to enter the business world. A full collection inspired by CEOs; Alexander Wang has surprised us all.

He took a stand, and started a movement. Taking the different party outfits, he transformed them into office-inspired pieces. He used leather, outlined the woman’s shape with zippers, and pushed her into the business world.

FW18 Alexander Wang – Alexander Wang

He also focused on mystery. Alexander Wang, having Asian roots, has used them while displaying his pieces. Walking down the runway were mostly Asian models, where they were showing off the 10 first looks. He also chose to let all the models wear sunglasses. He believes the Asian model has a touch of mystery where her face is not quite familiar. The sunglasses added to the mystery hiding the model’s identity.

FW18 Alexander Wang – Alexander Wang

FW18 Alexander Wang – Alexander Wang

So to all the businesswomen out there, you now know where to get the perfect outfits this season for work other than the classical suit-&-tie ensemble.

Maison Margiela: A Click to Capture the Glamour

« Say no to technology »

Thousands of movements adopted this statement, and today John Galliano did as well in Maison Margiela’s Spring 2018 Collection.

Margiela and Galliano in one house ultimately means craziness at its best. Those two designers do not focus on pleasing the commercial public rather than creating actual pieces of art. And this time Galliano took a stand against this modern world we live in, dedicated to following the latest trends and having over 2 Million followers on Instagram.

He created pieces that alone are worthy enough to spend hours staring at. The twist, however, wasn’t in the design but rather the fabric used. It consisted of polka dots and holographic fabric. The focus on these two together was for the following: the audience of the fashion show were asked to turn the flash on and to take pictures of the designs. When doing so, the two fabrics together will give off a different look than without flash.

Maison Margiela Artisanal SS18 with flash

Maison Margiela Artisanal SS18 without flash

When producing the pieces, Galliano claimed they kept taking photographs of them. And according to the pictures, they made the right adjustments. With the models walking down the runway, the audience captured each moment and froze the glamour and magic in it, as Galliano said. In a world where the human eye is not enough anymore, Margiela’s designs were fully exposed through a click on your phone.

We think Tyler Ellis is Pretty Clutch

Fashion is in the DNA. Tyler Ellis, daughter of late American design legend Perry Ellis, talks with The Extravagant about her accessories label. Tyler Ellis which launched in 2011, has grown a steady celebrity following through a commitment to luxury materials, branding details and thoughtful design. Available worldwide, we ask about the design process behind Tyler Ellis and what’s next for the brand.

You have stated in previous interviews that you wanted to carve out a niche away from sportswear, but what draws you specifically to handbag design?

“I have always been an accessories girl—bags, shoes and jewels! I’m from Los Angeles, so my actual wardrobe tends to be rather casual. I usually stick to the basics: black, white, grey and denim. But I like to have a little more fun with my handbags.

I love designing bags that can be dressed up or down depending on the outfit and the wearer’s mood. I will carry my velvet Lee Pouchet (one of the most popular bags on the red carpet) with a pair of distressed jeans and a t-shirt all day, and then use the same bag for a gala event that night. My Kelly Box, typically considered a day bag because of its size and shape; looks killer when worn with a great cocktail dress and some statement jewelry. I want people to not only have fun with their Tyler Ellis bags, but also use them day and night, and not feel confined that a “clutch” is solely for evening and a “handbag” is strictly for day.”

Do you have any plans to expand your brand into other accessories aside from handbags?

“I tend to design things close to my heart. I have three Maltese puppies, so a dog bag is an obvious necessity. The Josh Dog Bag, named after my father’s favorite dog, is sold exclusively on my website and is designed specifically for canine lovers who want to carry their babies in discrete and chic comfort.

My husband and I are also big wine lovers so wine bags were a must! My two styles, David and Dennis are sold exclusively on tylerellis.com

Each hold two bottles apiece, are lined with my signature “Thayer” blue and have an exterior pocket for a wine opener.

Recently I started playing golf, and if my mother and mother in-law have a say in it, children are up next, so those are two new areas for me to explore!”

Candy Clutch, SS18. Tyler Ellis, 2018.

How have your travels all around the globe inspired your collection?

“One of the main reasons I started my company was because of my passion for travel, which has taken me all over the world.

I found women in Jakarta carrying the same luxury handbag brands as women in Singapore, Tokyo, London and New York. This made me realize that there was a niche in the market to create an independent accessory brand with the design and quality to compete against established fashion houses by offering luxury consumers a product that is unique, detail orientated and also focused on functionality.”

Your brand works with many exotic materials such as ostrich, lizard and python. What would you say draws you to these unique materials? What are the challenges of working with them?

“The beauty of working with exotic leathers is that you will never find two skins that are exactly the same. The natural textures are stunning.

I work with more classically used exotic skins like alligator, python and lizard. I also love to use more unusual combinations like ostrich leg, fish, red jungle fowl and toad, because of how unexpectedly beautiful they are.

The main challenge of working with exotics is shipping, because of all of the regulations associated with the skins and what state or country they are being shipped to. All of the bags I create have CITIES documents, which are certificates stating that the animal was humanely treated in accordance with fish and wildlife protocol.”

Walk us through your design process. What’s your favourite part? Where do you draw the most inspiration from?

“My inspiration usually comes from people watching. I’m constantly on a plane, a train or seated at a cafe somewhere around the world surrounded by eclectic groups of people, whose styles are very often wildly different from mine. A small detail will catch my eye and I’ll jot down a quick sketch on a cocktail napkin, or whatever is near and revisit it later when I’m on my own.

Next, I will expand on the idea, flush out all of the intricate details and then send the final sketch and notes in an email to my factory in Italy. Usually the factory has very few questions and they start the process of creating the first prototype of the design.

Now comes the really exciting part and perhaps my favorite part of the process! When the bag is finished, the artisan sends it to me alongside my original, little sketch. There is nothing more gratifying than seeing that sketch, which came from some chance detail on a person I will most likely never see again turn into reality! Well, aside from Oprah Winfrey’s team reaching out and saying that she was interested in carrying one of my bags to the Global Globes— that happened too!”

Python Backpack, Tyler Ellis, SS2018

More and more young brands are confronted early on with managing both global production and global clientele, what was your strategy for managing these obstacles?

“I have had my company for six years and it took me three of those six years to find my current factory, which was game changing. I feel so honored to work with true artisans that have the same eye for detail and take as much pride in Tyler Ellis bags as I do. This incredible relationship enables Tyler Ellis to customize bags for clients all over the world in a timely manner.”

Who is the Tyler Ellis client? Is it the same person you imagined it would be when you first started designing?

“My clients tend to be worldly, strong and whimsical women who appreciate luxury and functionality. One of the most rewarding aspects of my job is traveling all over and getting to meet incredibly interesting women, many of whom have become close friends and avid collectors of my bags. To answer your question I would say, yes; when I initially started the brand I had the same vision for the Tyler Ellis woman, but it has taken a lot of growing, life lessons and hard work!”

How does celebrity styling play into your communications strategy? Do you have a celebrity you’re dying to see with one of your bags? Which bag do you think would suit them?

“As an independent luxury brand, my marketing budget can’t even compare to the big fashion conglomerates, so I have to look for other ways to get my name out there.

Celebrities have played a major role, not only in sales but also in brand legitimization. Before most people are willing to spend on a luxury item they have to believe in the brand and what it represents. And what better way to build trust than by having strong and inspirational women like Oprah Winfrey, Meryl Streep, Reese Witherspoon, Salma Hayek, Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber choosing to carry my bags, when they have access to anything and everything that the world has to offer?

It has been incredibly humbling to watch these women on the red carpets or spotted on the streets with their Tyler Ellis designs. I work very hard to create functional luxury bags that cater to what women want; whether it be a phone charger in a tote, an extra-long key fob (for easy access) or a detachable cross-body. I’m always looking to tweak and improve my designs, as they are all representations of both my lifestyle and myself. I strive for the best.

I have been very fortunate to have many of today’s most influential celebrities carry my bags, but looking back, I would have loved for Diana, Princess of Wales, to have carried Tyler Ellis. She represented what I like to think is the ethos of my brand: worldly, timeless and honorable. I could imagine her carrying my Lee Pouchet to events and my Jamie Doctor around town. That being said, in today’s world, I would love to see the Duchess of Cambridge carry my Kelly Box. It’s hard, rectangular shape finished off with my spear-lock closure is a classic design combined with a modern twist— perfect for a future Queen of England.”

LJ Tote, Tyler Ellis, SS2018

What has been the greatest challenge in sourcing and incorporating exotic materials in the Tyler Ellis line?

“The language barrier has created issues with tanneries. Misunderstandings on front cut vs. back cut of a skin can really change a design. I’ve also received wrong quantities and colors, and in a couple of instances nothing at all. But, I do work with an incredible father/son owned factory outside of Florence. Their close relationships with the tanneries that I source from helps make the sourcing process as seamless as possible. I pride myself on quality, so I source from only the most highly regarded tanneries like Paris-based HCP– Hermes Cuirs Precieux, owned by Hermes and the Tuscan based Caravel, owned by Kering.”

Tell us about the Perry Ellis archives: Are there plans to make the Perry Ellis archives accessible to the public in the future? Do you have a favourite piece within your father’s archive?

“I personally don’t control the Perry Ellis archives. The company was sold in 1999 to the Miami-based Feldenkreis family.

I do have vintage pieces of my father’s designs that were given to me by family and friends, which are very special to me. Recently, I was at a dinner party at the home of Lisa Eisner, the incredible Los Angeles photographer and jewelry designer. She told me that she had a gift for me, and asked me to close my eyes. She quickly returned and placed what felt like a coat on my shoulders—I opened my eyes and found the most incredible cropped shearling jacket, in perfect condition, finished off with my dad’s signature dimpled shoulder. He had given it to her in the ‘70s and it couldn’t be more relevant today.

My father’s pieces were so revolutionary at the time because he created women’s wear that looked super chic, but was also wearable and comfortable. He made fashion happy and fun, which inspires me every day.”

Where do you see your brand in the next five years?

“I’d love my brand to become a household name, but one that still creates unique, exclusive and exciting designs, and always strives to find ways to create the best products out there.”

Where can we follow you? And where can we check out your line?

“You can follow my brand on Instagram at @TylerEllisOfficial and check out the collection on TylerEllis.com. If you happen to be in London, please stop by Harvey Nichols to check out some of my special pieces in person!”

In their clutches! Hollywood’s showing off their Tyler Ellis’

BEVERLY HILLS, CA – JANUARY 07: Actors Salma Hayek (L) and Ashley Judd attend The 75th Annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton Hotel on January 7, 2018 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images)

Reese Witherspoon and her Tyler Ellis Lee Pouchet alongside Eva Longoria

BEVERLY HILLS, CA – JANUARY 07: Actor Meryl Streep (L) and NDWA Director Ai-jen Poo attend The 75th Annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton Hotel on January 7, 2018 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images)

SANTA MONICA, CA – JANUARY 11: Actor Kate Bosworth attends The 23rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on January 11, 2018 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Matt Winkelmeyer/Getty Images for The Critics’ Choice Awards )

SANTA MONICA, CA – JANUARY 11: Actor Jessica Biel attends The 23rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on January 11, 2018 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Matt Winkelmeyer/Getty Images for The Critics’ Choice Awards)

LOS ANGELES, CA. Jan 21: Actor Allison Williams attends the 24th  Screen Actors Guild Awards at Shrine Auditorium on January 21st, 2018 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Frederick M. Brown/ Getty Images)

A TALK WITH MILLIË CARR, MEET THE PINK PIGLET COLLECTION

Meet London based jewellery designer, Millië Carr. Soon to be fresh from her days at university, the 22-year-old young lady is making a mark for herself in the world of jewellery. Her creativity is somehow different and only equaled by her passionate entrepreneurial drive.

Millië decided to set up her own company by combining her greatest passions: piglets, stones and jewels. The Pink Piglet is a brand-new start-up which offers unique, timeless and luxurious earrings “that tell a story and champion local production”.

I believe the secret to her success is the story behind her earrings. I had the pleasure of meeting Millië in the heart of London City where we talked about her personal style, her life and her deeply energetic pink universe.

How did you first become interested in jewellery design?

“My passion for jewellery and accessories started as a child, when my mother had her own fashion accessory company in the 80s. I guess I’ve always been surrounded by funky pieces lying around the house and naturally grew up to develop an eye for bling and a wicked pair of earrings.

The idea of providing people with a timeless aesthetic has, and always will appeal to me, so that people can express themselves in a powerfully irresistible way through the magic of unique pieces. I love the fact that I can help people feel beautiful.”

What served as the inspiration for your current collection?

“The III Collection presents unusual and rare designs that are truly magical and individual. I was greatly influenced by my trip to India, especially by the artwork and architecture. It was different to what I knew, from the people I met, their fashion, work and what knowledge they gave me. They have such a strong influence for jewellery with stunning colours of semi-precious stones and superb craftsmanship. I was very fortunate to be visiting such beautiful and lavish hotels such as the Oberoi Udaivilas and the Leela Palace on lake Pichola known as ‘Venice of the East’. The whole experience was breath-taking: I became so interested in the Indian artwork and their rich heritage and culture.”

What is behind the name? How did the Pink Piglet come to be?

“I didn’t have to think very hard at all, ‘The Pink Piglet’ was the first name that popped into my head as I am passionate about piglets. When I realised that jewellery is what I wanted to do, it seemed an original and natural choice due to my slight obsession with pigs. My company is an e-boutique after all, a true original, only one in the world and therefore is only small and rather sweet. I thought The Pink Piglet suited the whole look I was aiming for very well. I knew from day one that The Pink Piglet Collection is what I wanted my brand to be called, nothing in this world can change that. The Pink Piglet itself came to be while I was on holiday in Malta last summer with my family. I came to my senses that I only have one more year left at university and then I am on my own and having to find myself a job. I’ve spoken about launching my own collection a few times, but just last August when I was back in London I decided to finally get on with it. I saw an opportunity and I went for it. I knew if I didn’t do it now, I would never do it.”

How many people are involved in The Pink Piglet? 

“Believe it or not, it is just me who manages everything from creative director to wrapping up my earrings and walking down to the post office. Of course, in house with support from my family, I really like to appreciate the power they gave me to start this dream of mine to come true. I’ve started this up while keeping my degree afloat, it’s not the easiest thing. I feel I may need to get a team on board fairly soon as the company is expanding and once I leave university, The Pink Piglet will have my whole devotion.”

How many collections do you realize per year?

“Considering The Pink Piglet Collection only launched 5 months ago, I would have launched three collections since August in March. I’m thinking three-four collections per year but that may change once I’ve left university depending on how I manage my time.”

Do you have any plans to open a boutique store?

“Yes. 100%. That is my dream and I will be over the moon if and when it happens. I would love to have my own boutique store and I am focusing on that as my long-term goal, especially to be based in Soho. That part of London offers so much diversity: the people and the energy in that area, especially Carnaby Street and Covent Garden, it’s all so vibrant and cool.”

What is your vision for The Pink Piglet?

“I now want to introduce The Pink Piglet Collection worldwide. Considering last month was the 5-month anniversary for my company, I am overwhelmed by the support and positivity from the people around me and of course my customers. If someone said to me 6 months ago The Pink Piglet Collection is going to be featured in the top magazines and you will be interviewed by The Extravagant, I would have laughed in your face. The rate in which my brand is growing keeps me motivated. It’s such a comfortable and reassuring feeling, knowing that something I thrive off and feel deeply passionate about is actually working out.”

What does it mean to you to be a British brand today?

​”For me, to be a successful British brand today means creating a visual identity. To build loyalty with the people surrounding myself and my company and of course stay true to my vision. The Pink Piglet is what it is because of love and appreciation that people out there have given it.  My mission is to sell luxurious pieces that tell a story and champion local production. My jewels offer ahead of the curve earrings that are influenced by fine art, travel and artisanal craftwork. Based on the brand ethos of timeless jewels, these are the pieces that should be in your day-to-day jewellery box to stand out amongst the crowd. The exploration of the relationship between design, fashion and these jewels is the ethos that has driven the brand since its inception in 2017.”

Are you planning any collaborations? If yes, with who?

“I haven’t had any serious thought about collaborating with anyone as of yet. I am excited for what the future holds and the talented creative minds that I cannot wait to meet along the way.”

What are the main features of your jewels?

“Semi-precious stones. I believe in crystal healing of the soul. My earrings consist of a variety of gemstones such as Agate (protection, creativity and harmony), Chalcedony (emotional balance and generosity), Jade (Balance, luck and health),  Druzy (positive self-love- the earrings I am wearing now), Jasper (grounding and stability) and Quartz (Meditation, energy and clarity). Gem-stones have been believed to hold metaphysical properties. They alter our moods and remedy a spectrum of ailments for thousands of years. In fact, a friend of mine bought me this yellow quartz that I have on me at all times, it brings self-confidence and symbolises wisdom, warmth and creative joy.” 

In your opinion, why are jewels so important for women?

“To answer this question, I will use a quote by Dalai Lama ‘We are all visitors on the planet.  We are only here for one hundred years at the very most.  During that period, we must try to do something good, something useful, with our lives.  If you contribute to other people’s happiness, you will find the true meaning of life.’ I believe that a piece of jewellery is not just some ordinary thing that we wear, it’s our personality, attitude, a lot more that a girl carries. Jewels are my ‘go to look’, majority of the time I live in simple black jumpers, floaty trousers or even tracksuit bottoms, but always with an exquisite pair of bling on my earlobes. It is about offering modern women confidence and individuality, regardless of age to feel inspired through my beautifully-crafted jewels and to be treasured and worn with love.”

How the III collection differs from the winter collection?

“It is perhaps slightly rebellious, a bit tongue-in-cheek approach to luxurious jewellery that there is not so much a difference between each collection or preciousness of each earring or gemstone, but the beauty in design and the craftsman of the human hands in unison with the creative mind. I suppose each collection is quite similar in the sense that they are inspired from the Indian artwork that had such an influence on me when visiting India.” 

Where can we follow The Pink Piglet?

For my jewels, best to go on Instagram to: @pinkpigletjewellery

To my website: www.thepinkpigletcollection.com

What’s next?

“After university I plan to explore other areas of the world for further inspiration and find more interesting jewels for The Pink Piglet’s future collections.  I became so interested in Indian culture that I will definitely get my calendar out and pick a date to go back in the near future.”

TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith Showcase Their Latest Creations

HUBLOT

Hublot showcased several new models during SIHH, including the Big Bang Meca-10 Blue Ceramic, which reflects the Maison’s well regarded technical and aesthetic mastery, by blending state of the art mechanics and ultra strong materials.

A highly anticipated release is the Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, which will be limited to just 250 pieces and was designed over a seven year close collaboration between the Italian automaker and Hublot.  The Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold is reminiscent of the iconic Big Bang Unico, reimmagined with a 45mm case and a bezel crafted of 18k polished Magic Gold.

Other models included the Classic Fusion Italia Independent, the Big Bang One Click Sapphire 39mm, and the Classic Fusion Tourbillon Berluti; which was created in coordination with menswear house Berluti, who is also owned by LVMH and is well regarded for their expertise in leather finishing.

Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2018 Collection: “Mystères d’un Jardin de Nuit”

The Givenchy Spring/Summer 2018 haute couture collection is inspired by the moonlight over a garden in the spring time with nocturnal conceptions.  The collection is the first by Givenchy’s new Creative Director Clare Waight Keller, who just recently took the position last year to manage the fashion house’s haute couture and women’s & men’s ready-to-wear collections.

In accordance with the theme, the collection was named “Mystères d’un Jardin de Nuit” or Mysteries of a Garden at Night, because of how Clare Waight Keller evoked a glimmer of ‘moonlight over a garden in spring’ to the outfits in the collection.  Radiating in a translucent and pellucid lighting, the essential black and white colours in particular expresses a contemporary approach to what is valued most.

Clare Wright Keller has become quite the addition to the Maison with her fresh and innovative ideas; not only has she put an array of elegant women’s wear together, she also created three bespoke men’s styles as well, making it a promulgation for crossover fashion.  The lighting as well as the technical know-how raised the quality of the materials during the showing of the collection, as they vacillated between otherworldly gowns and oblique, tailored pieces in lackluster blends.  Creased mousseline, refined ruffles and lace were embroidered with feathers and pearls in the show.  Dazzling silk dresses modulated a pink latex skirt or salmon latex jacket.

For more information visit:  Givenchy.com

Photos: © Givenchy

Ralph & Russo S/S 18 Couture Show

If you’ve already seen Ralph&Russo’s Spring 2018 Haute Couture Show, what you would have retained most would have been your last look at the collection, and not your first. It isn’t because the first look didn’t catch your attention with its ’30s-style silk crepe kimono, ivory crystals and 3D organza petals, but because the last dress was an off-white double duchess bridal gown featuring draped bodice and floral ruching modeled by the Brazilian influencer Camila Coelho, who became the real star of the show. Other stars, present at Ralph&Russo Couture defilé, who were seated across the front row included: Kylie Minogue, Natalia Vodianova, and Arizona Muse.

Regardless of whether or not you know what I’m talking about, you should definitely visit Ralph&Russo’s website. Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo are an Australian couple, who decided to move to London to open their own atelier. And now they are the first British brand in over a century to be elected by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show their collection on the official schedule at Paris Haute Couture Week. Ralph&Russo’s largest studio is in Mayfair, London, but they have offices in Paris as well and they are about to open new boutiques in New York City, Miami and Los Angeles.

Back to the show, it was like living in a fairytale: on a luxury runway with mirrored pillars, 56 looks showed up to confirm Ralph&Russo’s engagement in innovation as well as the firm’s pursuit of the highest level of quality. With design and craftsmanship at their heart, these gowns have the same features that make Ralph&Russo stand out amongst other designers: elegance, romanticism and femininity make their creations perfectly unique, as well as beloved by women worldwide.

The main colors used are pale pink, white and black, but the three last looks are in cherry red. Off-the-shoulder dresses, silk organza ball gowns and cocktail dresses dominated the scene with Swarovski pearls, devoré ostrich feathers and hand appliqued chiffon ruffles, which are mainly present in the deep coral silk off-the-shoulder gown (look 7). These ruffles are also in Meghan Markle’s engagement dress, who Russo in a pre-show interview stated: “She’s definitely added to our worldwide appeal”. Nowadays, there are rumors about who is going to design Markle’s wedding dress and Ralph&Russo is considered one of the potential designers.

The collection is then defined as “a continued celebration of the many facets of all women and [it] pays homage to the Eastern exploration of Creative Director, Tamara Ralph. Showcasing resonants of traditional Asian decoration punctuated by imperial red silk crêpe, acid green gazar and canary yellow silk satin; the collection is a spectrum of exoticism, with transparent illusion tulle suits, crystal embroidered jacquard and draped kimono-style silhouettes edged in layers of decorative tassels”.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s Couture Winter 2018 Menswear Show

The snowy runway was set by Swiss artist Thomas Flechtner and designed by Grafton Architects at Bocconi University in Milan. This frozen landscape with irregular lines of white plinths, showcase 45 diverse outfits in a suggestive scenography; that is the ambiance for the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Winter 2018 Menswear Show.

“We work around sartorial neologisms, which this season I have labelled with another neologism: Snowriting. Formal merges with informal in a sublime snowy scenario” described Alessandro Sartori, Zegna’s Artistic Director. “I wanted to emphasize the man versus nature aspect, so I thought of artist Thomas Flechtner and his incredible work. Our exchanges have been extremely interesting and constructive, which finally led to Thomas being actively involved in the design of the show experience. Outdoor spirit clashes with evolved tailoring, technology merges with tradition in a new expression of winter couture”.

The show had the opportunity to host many renowned celebrities, whose heads and shoulders were sprinkled with flakes of freshly fallen (yet artificial) snow. This snow was partially inspired by Oasi Zegna, the family’s natural reserve situated in Northern Italy.

The mountaineering capes feature jackets and coats inspired by bird’s footprints in the snow: especially the colors of the jacket, rust against violet, come respectively from tea and tobacco for the first, Crocus flower for the latter.

The innovative aspect of this collection is characterized by experimental fabrics, which were courteously supplied by Bonotto SpA, the high-end textile manufacturer that the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired last year.  These included matte cotton corduroy used for jackets and a new woven leather fabric for a tennis-bag-style. Now, sport coats and top coats are in double-faced Oasi cashmere, a new fabric obtained by chemical free process with natural ingredients only.

The collection presents adjustable geometric necklines, carved and curved lapels, and tie scarves, but what really catches the attention is “one-and-a-half-breasted” construction: it’s a mix between single and double breasted, it is used on jackets as well as coats. This is like a single-button jacket with a sharp line when open, but it fits like a double-breasted jacket when closed. Moreover, long felted cashmere coats and cashmere jumpsuits featured semi-articulated pockets with color inserts at the seam.

With this collection, Sartori aimed at creating a different shape for menswear by combining traditional heritage with modernity, using new techniques and concepts inspired by nature itself. Sartori added, “I am interested in expanding traditional techniques, creating hybrid shapes that are apt for new uses, getting contemporary function out of traditional craft”.

For more information visit:  Zegna.us