Interview With Couture Hat Designer – Heidi Lee

New York City based hat designer and NYU professor, Heidi Lee, has had her head-wear featured in VOGUE, the New York Times, MTV, New York Magazine, among many others. As the recipient of the 2012 MET Museum Costume Institute Accessory Design Award, Lee has an A-list clientele which includes Anne Hathaway, Lady Gaga and Jennifer Lopez. She is most notable for her “Endless Echo Hat” that is created with a 3D printer from a scan of her face.

Tell me about your background. Where are you from and where did you go to school?

“I was born in Flushing, Queens, so I am a New York native. I grew up in Philadelphia, starting [at] the age of 6. I went to school for graphic design at the Rhode Island School of Design.”

What initially piqued your interest in design and fashion and specifically hats?

“I really like hats because they are like a security blanket. It’s cozy and feels like home. Whenever you are anywhere outside of your normal routine or a new setting and environment, it’s something that makes you feel secure.”

Can you tell me more about the “Endless Echo Hat”? What inspired you?

“[The hat] consists of eight overlapping faces. I got inspired by Echo and Narcissus, Greek mythology and also a painting by John William Waterhouse. Just like any artists and musicians, [the design is] semi-autobiographical. And it’s talking about the Echo Chamber effect of the internet, in which information, ideas, or beliefs are amplified or reinforced by transmission and repetition inside an enclosed system. We also contain multitudes, so it’s being multifaceted.”

What are you working on right now?

“Right now, I am trying to [become] open to the idea of being affordable to the public, like IKEA or Target. I want to make my hats more accessible. There’s a lot of research and development happening, but I want to keep it a little bit secret before I let it out. I don’t like to show the process. I like to show it when it’s done.”

Do you plan to design something else other than hats?

“I am definitely open to it as a designer. I went to [the Rhode Island School of Design], and the good thing about RISD is that they help you develop a sharp eye, so I am open to everything. I would love to design a chair. At the moment, I am trying to hyper-focus on my goals, but after a couple of years, we will see.”

What are your current goals?

“I am getting this hat (pointing at her hat) mass-produced. It’s one of my best sellers. It’s called Vortex hat. A lot of people say that it reminds them of a cupola in a building or a teapot. I also like the idea of how it looks like a virtual hat in real life. I want to refer to a quote of Charles Eames, ‘We want to make the best for the most for the least.’”

Where does all the inspiration for your design come from?

“New York City, living here, like every corner and every street. You never know who you will bump into like I just bumped into an actor from Spiderman on the subway.”

Can you tell me more about your teaching experience at NYU?

“It’s a class for pre-college students. We talk about fashion in general and have some recommended readings, lectures and special guests. So by the end of the class, even students who have no prior experience in fashion, they are making four or five fashion illustrations.”

Where do you see yourself in five years?

“That’s a good question. The sky’s the limit. Who knows. I feel like I just need to hyper-focus and accomplish my goals.”

Where can we follow you?

“@HEIDI_337“

Images courtesy of: Heidi Lee

Featured Image Credit: Joseph Jagos

The Story of NY Vintage | The Most Extravagant Vintage Clothing Boutique

With a museum-worthy collection of luxury vintage clothing that dates back to the 1860s and having dressed a wide-range of celebrity clients like Lady Gaga, former first lady Michelle Obama, and Beyoncé, New York Vintage is unlike any other clothing store in New York City.

But for owner and founder Shannon Hoey, it’s all about preserving history and making it readily available to the public.

Having founded the store in 2002, when she was only 26 years old, Hoey says that her life before owning NY Vintage can be described as a mix of working as a freelance designer, traveling with her husband who worked in the antique business, and buying and selling vintage clothing items.

“I came across one estate that we purchased that had all couture and specialized pieces, and I started collecting. That’s really how I fell into it,” says Hoey. “From there I started selling to museums, I sold privately and then I literally stopped taking jobs and took a store and jumped right into it not knowing if I was going to pay the rent the next month.” However the risk certainly paid off.

Located just two blocks away from Madison Square Park in Manhattan, the store has a retail space available to the general public on the main floor and a showroom upstairs that houses the most desirable and expensive pieces in Hoey’s collection.

Although both the retail space and the showroom are home to an astounding array of designer vintage wear, the showroom is only open to individuals working within the fashion industry, including stylists, editors, creative directors, designers, and fashion photographers, all of whom are vetted before being granted access to the exclusive space. “It’s not rent the runway,” Hoey jokes.

Walking into the showroom for the first time, it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer number of incredible pieces in Hoey’s assemblage. Whether it be clothing that was once owned by actress Sophia Loren or even pieces that belonged to Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw from Sex and the City.

“The question that I always get is, how did you collect all of this? And this is a culmination of years of traveling and buying and searching for those really special pieces,” explains Hoey. “We have over 150 years of some of the most important fashion.”

When asked what her favorite piece from her collection is, Hoey gives a quick yet assured response. “All of it.”

“Anything that’s up here would be difficult to part with, I remember where I purchased it, when I purchased it, just the excitement of finding these pieces,” she says. “Everything up here is really special to me.”

Even so, with an extensive collection that includes garments and accessories made between the 1860s and today, Hoey concedes that the pieces she is most well-known for are those from the 1920s.

But that shouldn’t come as a surprise considering that she rented out clothing for the Leonardo DiCaprio led remake of The Great Gatsby. And with racks filled with these 1920s era dresses, she estimates that each one is worth about $6,000 USD.

Keeping in mind the price and age of these items, Hoey explains that depending on the condition of the garment, many of her items that date back to the 1920s aren’t used for red carpet wear. Instead, they are mostly rented out for photoshoots, where movement in the clothing is more minimal.

But for pieces that are even older and date back to the Victorian era, she says that those items are exclusively reserved for designer research – providing inspiration or even the possibility for a replica to be made.

Up until recently though, taking advantage of Hoey’s incredible collection housed in her second-floor showroom was limited to people within the fashion industry who were either based in New York or willing to make the trek. Now, following the creation of her exclusive online archive, that barrier is no longer in place.

Proud of the new platform and all that it has to offer, Hoey likes to describe it as “Pinterest meets Polyvore,” since it allows users to create storyboards with the NY Vintage pieces they find themselves most inspired by.

“The most fulfilling thing for me with my job, with what I do, is being able to take my client’s vision and see that through fruition, to be able to present them with the story that’s in their head,” explains Hoey. This same reasoning can also explain why in recent years Hoey has taken up personally styling celebrity clients herself, one of her most notable clients being actress Jennifer Lawrence.

Having been in business for around 17 years now, Hoey doesn’t see herself leaving anytime soon and with her own jewelry line in the works right now, she is taking steps to add to her retail space as well.

“I’ve taken some of the pieces that were in really high demand and I made them better,” says Hoey. “So, designing is the next chapter for me.”

Yet at the end of the day and looking back on all that she has achieved with her business, Hoey remains humble and kind, making the store feel inviting, especially with her two young daughters sitting nearby, playing together in the retail space.

“The energy here is incredible, it’s dynamic, it’s ever changing. You’re always learning, and everything has a story, it’s a rewarding process, meeting new people,” she says.

Images courtesy of: New York Vintage

Summer’s Luxury Cosmetic Launches

Summer has officially begun and what better way than to kick off yours by picking up some products from this summer’s most highly anticipated luxury cosmetic launches. From highlighter duos to bronzer, these products will become essential to your makeup routine this summer. 

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CHANEL CRUISE 2019 COLLECTION LUMIÈRE ET CONTRASTE

Global Creative Makeup and Colour Designer, Lucia Pica, drew inspiration from the effects of shadow and light for Chanel’s 2019 summer makeup collection to create a contrasting palette of subtle, sensual, reflective and mysterious makeup.

Duo Bronze Et Lumière Bronzer and Highlighter Duos

“Created exclusively for the Cruise 2019 Collection, this limited-edition face powder duo features a matte bronzer and iridescent highlighter to sculpt and contour the complexion with a range of effects. Available in two shade harmonies, embossed with a double-c monogram.”

Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Palettes 

“Created by Lucia Pica for the Cruise 2019 Collection, this limited-edition eyeshadow palette features four natural shades with matte, iridescent and metallic finishes that layer together for captivating eye looks. An exclusive creation embossed with the double-c monogram.”

Ombre Première Gloss Top Coat Eyeshadows

“Created exclusively for the Cruise 2019 Collection, this limited-edition shimmering eye gloss seamlessly glides onto lids for a high-shine look. Available in luminous golden and silver shades that can be worn alone or over eye makeup.”

Stylo Ombre Et Contour Eyeshadow Liner

“This all-in-one eye pen features a longwearing formula and can be used as an eyeshadow, eyeliner or khôl for a variety of lasting eye looks.”

Le Vernis Longwear Nail Colour

“The iconic nail polish is reformulated for longer-lasting, high-shine colour that cares.”

Rouge Coco Flash Hydrating Vibrant Shine Lip Colour

“A comfortable lipstick with intense colour that transforms on contact with lips for an enhanced high-shine effect.”

Rouge Coco Gloss Moisturizing Glossimer

“A non-sticky, ultra-light formula leaves lips visibly smooth and plump, and perfectly brilliant. An innovative, dual-sided applicator ensures optimal, even coverage and high precision. In 24 shades to collect, layer and love.”

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YVES SAINT LAURENT SUMMER LOOK 2019 

Yves Saint Laurent’s limited edition Luxuriant Haven Summer Collection is inspired by the vibrance of an exotic jungle escape. 

Bronzing Stone Summer Look 2019 

“This limited edition Bronzing Stone Palette is cloaked in a gorgeous, earthy tan, contrasted by a fire-colored signature and palm deco. Within the palette, a silky-matte bronzer that instantly gives skin effortless, natural-looking radiance without the shine.”

Couture Eye Pallete Summer Look 2019 

“This limited edition Couture Palette is cloaked in a vital deep green suede contrasted by a bright, clean signature and palm deco. Within the palette, shimmering golden browns and blues are complemented by a rich green and warm highlighting peach, effortlessly blending together to create an illuminating eye look.”

Glossy Stain Summer Look 2019

“A best-selling YSL lip product that combines the texture and shine of a gloss with the long wear of a stain. Offered with the limited edition summer collection in a gorgeous, easy to wear nude.”

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DIOR WILD EARTH SUMMER LOOK 2019

Serving as both the Creative Director and Image Director for Dior Makeup, Peter Philips draws inspiration from the femininity of earth tones and shades for bronzed and gold-brushed skin and with smoldering eyes. 

Dior Lip Tattoo Coloured Lip Tint

“This summer, Dior reveals four exclusive* shades of Dior Lip Tattoo in earth tones warmed by the sun. Dior Lip Tattoo, the first long-wear lip tint by Dior, is about to shake up your makeup routine. With its 12-hour wear,** comfortable formula and weightless no-transfer finish, the colour fuses to the lips like a tattoo just seconds after application.”

Dior Addict Lacquer Stick Saturated Lip Colour

“This summer, Dior adopts a “”Bronze”” touch. Four new shades of Dior Addict Lacquer Stick double their colour intensity with a shimmering veil of light. A stick with a “”lip fondant”” effect that liberates all the colour and shine of a lacquer, plus the comfort of a balm, with 6 hours* of weightless wear and unrivaled texture.”

Dior Addict Lacquer Plump Lip Plumping Lacquered Ink 

“Dior Addict Lacquer Plump reveals two sensual and sophisticated shades for summer. Dior pushes the boundaries of lacquer and skincare even further with the creation of the first lip-plumping lacquered ink.”

5 Couleurs Wild Earth High Fidelity Colours & Effects Eyeshadow Palette

“The iconic 5 Couleurs palette explores a range of tawny colours for a natural and luminous ombré effect. An ornamental motif, inspired by hand-hammered metal, marks a wild and sensual beauty.”

Diorshow In & Out Eyeliner Waterproof Double-ended Eyeliner Pencil & Kohl

“Dior has created its 1st double-ended waterproof eyeliner pencil & kohl, your essential ally for a long-wearing intense eye look. Flawlessly defined eyes in one easy, controlled stroke.”

Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze Wild Earth Bronzing Powder 

“Housed in the silver-domed case, Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze Wild Earth reveals a motif in the style of hand-hammered copper, available in a limited edition. The powder, infused with golden minerals, captures the light and heightens the bronzed look of the skin. It warms the colour of the complexion for a unique,* luminous and natural effect that makes you appear naturally tanned.”

Diorskin Mineral Nude Glow Wild Earth Brightening & Correcting Powder 

“Housed in the silver-domed case, Diorskin Mineral Nude Glow Wild Earth reveals a motif in the style of hand-hammered copper, available in a limited edition. Infused with pearls, the minerals in this natural glow powder capture the light to reveal the radiance of each shade for a colour-enhanced healthy glow.”

Flash Luminizer Radiance booster pen

“Flash Luminizer captures the light of summer to boost the natural radiance of the face. Inspired by the skin-illuminating techniques used by Backstage makeup artists, this illuminator brush enhances the complexion in a single click, for professional radiance.”

Dior Vernis Couture Colour Nail Lacquer

“This summer, Dior Vernis takes colour and light all the way to the fingertips with 4 new exclusive and captivating shades.”

Dior Sun Glow Veil of light Nail Protection

“The first nail care lacquer by Dior inspired by the rays of the sun. Applied alone or as a top coat, it enhances the nail with an iridescent luster and protects it from exterior aggressors (sand, saltwater).”

Bulgari’s “SerpentiForm” Exhibition Dazzles Chengdu Museum This Summer

Having held the “SerpentiForm” exhibition in Rome in 2016 and Singapore and Tokyo in 2017, Bulgari presents their Chinese patrons with a feast of precious Bulgari Serpenti pieces at Chengdu Museum in China this year. The show runs until August 25th. Jean-Christophe Babin, Chairman and CEO of Bulgari, attended the opening ceremony and gave an introduction of exhibition contents with Brand ambassadors Kris Wu and Jolin Tsai joining the conversation. 

The Serpenti design has always been a distinctive element of Bulgari’s jewelry. Stylized serpent ornament reconciles a powerful vibe with a glossy elegance. The Bulgari Serpenti bracelet-watch worn by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra, for example, heightens a sense of dangerous beauty of the movie where Taylor (as Cleopatra) shines with her starring Bulgari pieces. At the “SerpentiForm exhibition” held at Chengdu Museum this year, visitors can not only appreciate a rich collection of Bulgari’s serpenti creations, but engage in a discussion about the symbolism associated with serpents in both Western and Eastern cultures. 

As a common symbol in artistic creations, serpent tends to be given various meanings in different cultural contexts. While the serpent is associated with seductiveness and reproduction in Western culture, its counterpart in Chinese artworks often stands for power, wealth and war. Thus, it’s not surprising to see how the tone of art varies depending on the reading of serpents. At this year’s “SerpentiForm” exhibition in Chengdu, The Sin by Franz von Stuck (1909) is a great example of showing how Stuck as an European artist orchestrates serpent as a literal personification of evilness in his painting. With a nude female figure wrapped by an aggressive serpent standing in the shadow,  The Sin conveys a kind of gloomy mood to its viewers. Chinese artist Yang Mian’s recreation of Nine Dragons from Song Dynasty, on the other hand, shows the worship to power in traditional Chinese society. To make it more interesting, Yang deploys CMYK, a print technique that contains only four basic colors, in his work and encourages viewers to bring their own imaginations to interpret the original classic. Symbolized serpents are also found in pop art and modern sculpture. By absorbing traits of diverse art movements, serpents as symbols have evolved from the product of politics and religion to a complicated reflection of zeitgeists.

Famous for its unique combination of rare colored stones, Bulgari’s jewelry line of Serpenti pieces pays tribute to this skill and adds onto it with evocative representations of the snake. The origin of Serpenti creations can be traced back to a turning point of Bulgari jewelry design at 1940s when the brand’s traditional French school taste, which favors the use of diamonds and platinum polished with geometric facets, was gradually switching to an emerging focus on gold and coils of the Serpenti creations. Afterwards, Bulgari also explored new possibilities by integrating exotic artistic designs from Asia and unconventional materials for high-end luxury like silk and porcelain into its jewelry collection. As it resonates with the spirit of the “SerpentiForm” exhibition, this remarkable adaptability of Bulgari speaks for its international reputation nowadays as a luxury fashion icon. 

Image credit: © Bulgari courtesy of LVMH

How a Bourbon King influenced ISAIA’s S/S 2020 Collection

Famed Mens Clothier ISAIA unveiled their stunning Summer 2020 collection on June 15th in Milan at the Palazzo della Triennale. In true Neapolitan fashion, ISAIA is paying respect to its home city of Naples by supporting the
National Museum of Capodimonte. The Museum, which is under the patronage of ISAIA, is currently in the process of being renovated.

The museum is housed in an eighteenth-century palace on the Capodimonte hill. The palace, which has long served as a repository of Neapolitan artwork, was constructed for King Charles III of Spain, who ascended to the throne in the year 1734. Charles III inherited a significant collection of art from his Italian mother, Elisabetta Farnese. The Farnese family collection was initiated by Pope Paul III, in the 1500s. Significant holdings among the Farnese family collection that now reside within the museum’s hands include works by masters, such as Simone Martini and Tino da Camaino, Colantonio, Raffaello, Michelangelo, Tiziano, Breughel, Carracci, and Caravaggio.

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One of the most exceptional aspects of the palace is its Rococo style rooms, which include a Chinese Salon crafted entirely of porcelain. Capodimonte has seen many changes in its long history, from conversions in use, to movements of contents: this residence has witnessed it all. Following Bourbon ownership, the estate passed through the hands of the House of Savoy.

Well, we assume you are now asking yourself ‘what does this palace have to do with ISAIA’s most recent collection?’ In honor of Capodimonte, ISAIA has titled their S/S 2020 release the “Capodimonte Collection,” in honor of the majestic palace. The Colours, which are well pronounced in the collection, are reminiscent of the grand residence. Whether you’re the kind of gentleman that desires solids or pastels, you will be pleased to know that your next garment has taken influence from masterpieces in one of Italy’s finest museums.

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Highlights of this collection abound in casual wear, including well-tailored jeans, madras sport shirts, and polo shirts; in addition to sporting trousers that feature boat shaped pockets and elegantly tapered lines. The polo shirts stand out with their exposed seams that reinforce the garment’s fabric, and handmade buttonholes leave little to be desired. Other standout details amongst the collection include pieces that display prominent glass buttons and the new sail feature with coral thread that is more like tailored stitching.

With our attention returning to the museum’s art work, we can’t help but notice the palace’s Flemish tapestries, which solidify the victory of Charles V at the Battle of Pavia in 1525. This work is adapted into the S/S 2020 collection’s elegant dinner jackets. Last, but certainly not least, the undercollars of ISAIA’s S/S 2020 jackets are meant to pay homage to the Capodimonte’s ‘rococo cherubs that peek through golden stuccoes and frescoes.’

Images courtesy of: ISAIA

For more information, please visit: www.isaia.it

Les Sables Roses by Louis Vuitton | Celebrating the Beauty of the Middle East

Les Sables Roses is Louis Vuitton’s latest addition to their line of exceptional fragrances. The perfume’s name which translates to ‘the pink sands’ was developed to pay homage to Middle Eastern scents.

Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud drew on thousand of years of Middle Eastern history to develop a scent that is thoroughly unique, yet pays homage to the region’s beauty and perfume making saga.

With respect to the desert’s majestic nature, Louis Vuitton has stated that the scent of Les Sables Roses is meant to awaken “the spellbinding moment in time at daybreak when the first rays of sunlight bathe the landscape in a shade of rose that blends dunes and sky. Between night and day, shadow and light, cold and heat, this instant reconciles contrasts.”

With notes of rose, oud, and ambergris, this perfume is genuinely reminiscent of both Arab and Persian fragrance making. This extraordinary contrast was accomplished through the use of outstanding earthly substances, namley, Ambergis, one of the rarest substances on the planet, which is employed to enhance the composition of the rose’s freshness and the oud’s woody aroma.

A time honored Middle Eastern tradition is the concept of layering different fragrances, in this respect Les Sables Roses does not disappoint. One unique opportunity is combining this scent with Louis Vuitton’s Ombre Nomade fragrance. All said, the finished product goes beyond the sum of the perfume’s ingredients and also the talent of Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, to create a fragrance that is truly awe inspiring and quite essentially magical.

Image Credit: © Louis Vuitton courtesy of LVMH

Dover Street Market New York: Get Ready for an Unconventional Adventure

Standing at the corner of Lexington Avenue and East 30th Street, Dover Street Market New York (DSMNY), a high-end retail branch of Rei Kawakubo’s international fashion empire, counters basically everything I expect from a fashion boutique. Words like timeless and classical would do a just description of the building based on its temple-like facade. However, a wild fashion experiment, or “beautiful chaos” in Karakubo’s words, is actually going on underneath the surface. Together with five other stores around the globe (London, Tokyo, Singapore, Beijing, and L.A.), DSM has won a sterling reputation among fashion buyers with its consistent pursuit of creating unconventional adventures in retail.

There are seven floors above ground plus a basement inside of the DSMNY. A stunning glass elevator services all floors, while stairs are located in two wings of the building. What initially stole my attention was a series of columns posed from the ground floor to the sixth. A colorful column decorated with knitted yarn on the ground floor is a delicate piece by artist Magda Sayeg. “Yarn bombing,” as this new wave of street art has been dubbed, brings a sense of warm and fuzzy to an otherwise proto-modern surroundings. London Fieldworks, an art practice founded by artist Bruce Gilchrist and Jo Joelson in 2000, and artist Leo Sewell also participated in designing the columns. The columns crafted by Fieldworks are covered with varying wood blocks while Sewell’s work is characterized by piecing together objects including skis and stickers for the surface of his columns. Columns, however, function more than eye-catching decorations in the store. Instead, their significance as the versatile linkage between the store’s sections is too important to ignore. For instance, a tunnel-shaped stairway connecting the second and third floors presents another innovative attempt of reconstructing the space. This so-called “Biotopological Scale-Juggling Escalator” made by the visionary artist Madeline Gins highlights the playful use of architectural language within DSMNY.

With about 20 different brands being featured on most floors, DSMNY is very ambitious in terms of mixing up a variety of brands as well as tailoring unique showrooms for each one of them. While wooden Norman arches over COMME des GARÇONS Homme Deux’s suits and shirts address a vibe of gentlemanlike steadiness, oversized jackets of CDG celebrate the graphic-focused spirit with brand logos flooding all over the background wall. Mix Matching works of marquee brands like Gucci and Balenciaga with emerging designers further emphasizes DSMNY’s acknowledgement to authentic fashion ideas. A good storytelling of designs, after all, speaks for itself.

Like many top-notch boutiques, DSMNY has an excellent team of staff who come in handy whenever you have questions. One thing that singles them out is the DSMNY’s openness to their staff’s personal dressing style. No business casual or in-store-brand’s clothing is needed. Employees there are simply encouraged to wear whatever makes them feel comfortable and special. It’s probably due to this liberal culture that the staff of DSMNY tend to pass on the warmth and respect they receive to their customers. Chatting with staff there is quite joyful in a sense that you feel like you are talking to a sincere friend who happens to have a good eye for fashion. Considerate customer service can be found in the cozy cafe, Rose Bakery, on the ground floor as well. This small cafe is just the place to get refreshed with an inviting carrot cake, or just the spot to enjoy a drink and an intimate conversation.

The faith in art for art’s sake, in my opinion, has been well revered and practiced in the DSMNY where each design stands out for its artistic brilliance and uncommercial intrinsic part. More importantly, individuality plays a more important role than fashion trends when it comes to both arranging designs in store and contextualizing them within customers’ day-to-day lives. In DSMNY, it all comes down to discover a new side of you.

Photographer Credit: Adrian Wilson courtesy of DSMNY

Yun Qu: Fashion Designer, Musician, and Futurist

Yun Qu, the Founder of the NYC based brand Videmus Omnia, which was founded in 2016, let me know that she was listening to Nirvana when she got the inspiration for her A/W 2019 collection, “Enigma”. The collection, which features grunge fashion and Renaissance art debuted at the A/W 2019 New York Fashion Week. “Enigma” marks Yun’s third collection.

When I entered Yun Qu’s studio in New York on a Sunday afternoon, the first thing that grabbed my attention was a guitar against the window that faced the street. This confirmed my suspicion that Yun is passionate about music and once played in a rock band during her high school years. In fact, the influence of music on Yun is so powerful that when asked about her fashion icon, the first name that hits her mind is Marilyn Manson, a heavy metal vocalist who was famous for his controversial appearance and personality. “[He] looks scary, but I think the way he dresses is cool,” said Yun.

Aspiration of music is in Yun’s DNA. Born and raised in China, Yun started studying music when she was four. At 16, she moved to the States to attend high school, though with a passion to explore jazz. “Jazz is not as popular in China as it’s here”, said Yun. However, her pursuit of music met a major obstacle when her mother told her that it’s unrealistic to continue a musical path in college. “My mom said that ‘I don’t want you to sleep on the street after graduation’,” Yun told me. It’s not uncommon in Chinese culture that chasing after a career in music is frowned upon, because it’s regarded as a rebellious sign of “hopeless kids.” Yet intervention from her mom was not the end of her story with music. Instead, she decided to dabble in fashion design and transcend her understanding of music into a new area. Acceptance from many top fashion schools surprised her at first. “I didn’t know that I could get into fashion,” she told me. Doubtful as she was, it turned out that her time at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)  brought out the best in Yun, who now shines as a prospective young designer and shows originality in her unconventional designs.

The phrase Videmus Omnia means “we see everything” in Latin. “It felt like a mysterious prophecy when I heard the translation. And I was correct”, she said. “I love reading Sherlock Holmes series when I was little,” Yun giggled, “and something like secret organizations always fascinates me.” The mysterious vibe of her design, however, means more than fantasy to Yun. It’s also a unique expression of her personal identity. “I want to hide behind my brand and [people] won’t be able to predict my next move,” said Yun. Although her design incorporates traits of mixed cultures, she suggested that the stereotypes toward works by Asian artists do exist. “They will judge what my style is based on what I look like.” For her latest collection, she received feedback that her work had an “Asian flavor” from people who were not familiar with the brand. She said that the feature of Renaissance period and grunge rock could be easily overlooked just because she is an Asian artist.

When facing critics who directed statements such as “crazy” and “not for real life” toward her design language, Yun thinks that it’s a matter of personal taste. The black floral pattern and deconstructed silhouette, in her opinion, are not just for stage wear. “It’s just artistic but still can be worn in everyday life,” she said. A supporter of the slow fashion movement, Yun has insisted in crafting handmade clothing since day one. The fabrics of her clothes, in particular, are not only of high quality, but can be adapted to different styles. “The silk doesn’t have to be soft,” Yun said. Moreover, as she explained, the versatility of her fabrics will not be limited to multiple uses, but advanced with the aid of technology in the future. She recalled that a couple of years ago, a fashion designer (Manel Torres) developed a spray-on fabric in collaboration with a professor of particle technology in London. The magic material is a liquid mixture that enables you to spray clothes directly onto your body and after the spray dries, it becomes a washable and re-wearable shirt. As a New Yorker, Yun found the unpredictable weather here rather annoying. “I want to design a kind of clothing that can change according to different weather conditions.”

Please follow Yun’s collections on her official website and the Instagram account of Videmus Omnia.

Shop her design in DREAMS ON AIR – SOHO, NY 120 Wooster St, New York, NY 10012

Images Coursey of: Yun Qu

Leaf Greener: “Fashion Industry Needs to Slow Down”

Liberty, Enthusiasm, Aesthetics, Fantasy. Unlike traditional print magazines, the LEAF WeChat magazine doesn’t follow rules in terms of format and frequency. Nor does the magazine discuss fashion trends and gossip. “It’s about design theories, [and] about ethics,” Leaf Greener said in our interview. “We believe in slow fashion and publish articles whenever we find right angles and themes.”

Leaf Greener, the former Senior Fashion Editor of Elle China and Founder of LEAF WeChat Magazine, is a Chinese fashion influencer and creative consultant with more than 300,000 followers on Instagram. A rising star in the Chinese fashion industry, Greener has shown her talent in not only styling modern chic looks, but also in discovering the values behind fashion designs.

After graduating with a degree in fashion design, Greener didn’t choose to pursue a career as a fashion designer. “I was more interested in doing the work behind the scene, like writing articles,” she said. In 2007, she decided to work for Elle China and made the move from Beijing to Shanghai where the headquarter’s of the magazine is based. Having lived and worked in two of the best-known cities in China, Greener told me that she felt like the vibes between the two cities were just so different. “It could be like two countries sometimes,” she said. She later explained that this difference was revealed to her as a versatility of Chinese culture between the North and South.

As a fashion journalist whose work has been featured in publications such as Vogue, New York Magazine, New York Times, and Elle, Greener expressed her concern about fashion journalism today in our interview. “Journalism [has] vanished, fashion [has] failed, and we are living in a fake-news era,” said Greener. “It makes me sad.” She added, “We can’t write something without responsibility, just as jokes.” The media, in her opinion, is a vital means of education. “Before, we knew things by talking to people around us and reading; now, we learn from the TV and social media.” She’s aware of the need to make fashion more approachable through the media. As she said, there’s a gap regarding the notion of fashion between insiders and outsiders.

When discussing her experience in fashion journalism, she stated: “I was trained as a fashion designer at first, [so] I know how the fashion industry works. Later on, as a fashion editor, I got to know where the creativity of fashion comes from.” How has Greener’s stint at Elle China from 2008 to 2014 influenced her ideas about fashion journalism and the industry as a whole? “I was trained professionally. Thanks to the training, I have been equipped with the skill, taste, and knowledge. [And] I really appreciate the chance to work with creative artists and other editors.”

In 2015, Greener founded the LEAF WeChat magazine and switched her focus to digital media. “Our magazine is based on [a] social media platform,” she said, “and I want to reach out to [a larger] audience.” When asked about the role of social media in the world of fashion nowadays, she said, “it’s more democratic.” However, she pointed out that luxury businesses today haven’t fully taken advantage of digital platforms and social media. “There [is so much] fake news and a lot of brands are focusing on the quantity not quality,” she said, “but luxury is kind of exclusive and private, which is focused on the quality not quantity.” Yet her confidence in the industry was also conveyed as she continued. “It’s a process. Luxury [businesses] may develop too fast and they need some time to be more cautious.”

Having traveled around the world and appeared in many photographs at ultra prestigious fashion events, Greener shared with us her personal style, philosophy, and favorite cities. “My style is pretty playful and I enjoy playing with my wardrobe,” said Greener. She attributed her unique personal style to her own personality and interpretation of social connections. “I [dress] like my personality, which has multiple layers. And when I go to different social occasions, I will dress differently based [on] my connections with [the] people present.” In terms of the places she has enjoyed visiting most, Greener has given her heart to Rome, Tuscany, Paris, and Shanghai. One thing she must do whenever she goes to a city is to visit the food market there and experience the local culture. Greener is also passionate about visiting local museums, galleries, and churches. Earlier on the day of our interview, Greener had just returned home to Shanghai from a trip and would soon hit the road again to attend a festival that supports new talent in the fashion industry held in Hyères, a prominent city in Southern France. Greener mentioned it would be her third visit to Hyeres, and that last year she was one of the judges for the festival.

In the end, Greener said that she is now kind of in an “in-and-out” status regarding the fashion business. Recognizing the fact that fashion is the second most polluting industry globally, she advocates the idea of slow fashion and hopes more people won’t just express sentiment to “protect our planet”, but act upon it. “I am glad that I can choose something that is very meaningful and helpful for the society,” said Greener.

Follow Leaf Greener on her Instagram Account and personal website.

Images Courtesy of: LEAF WeChat Magazine

A Peter Marino Designed Chanel Flagship Boutique Opens in Seoul

Located in Apgujeong-dong, which is well regarded as one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in South Korea, Chanel’s newly-opened Seoul flagship store stands out as an identifiable abstraction of the international brand’s icon in a prime, urban surrounding. The opening of which marks the 10th boutique across the country.

Architect, Peter Marino, who has been regularly commissioned by Chanel to design boutiques in New York, Paris, Tokyo and London, solved another challenge of how to represent modern luxury in a structural delicacy. Covered in black glass and lava stone, the new boutique reveals classic black-and-white elegance that is the embodiment of Chanel’s emblematic logo.

Minimalistic and futuristic, the monolithic Chanel Seoul boutique inherits Coco Chanel’s signature, black-and-white tweed, and is recreated with modern chic. Instead of depicting the iconography as an integral unit, Marino decomposed the symbol to several radical elements and reassembled them in an abstracted way. The representative tone of black and white can be observed in the contrast between the monolithic body and LED-illuminated logos on the corners of the façade. The spirit of Chanel, simple but versatile, is expressed in the ubiquitous presence of oblongs seen from seemingly moveable lava stones on the surface to caved-in glass windows.

The spacious seven-floor building is not only a striking design on the outside, but on the inside, as well. Unlike the exterior, the inside is furnished with ivory colored floors and an articulated display of lighting. While ready-to-wear clothes, handbags, shoes and jewelry are placed on the three lower floors, distinguished shoppers can also enjoy private spaces on the upper floors for receptions and special events. Staircases polished in a white tone and divided with charcoal railings connect the many floors of the boutique. Artwork created by renowned artists from across the globe are interspersed among trending fashion styles inside the building. On the ground floor, two commissioned works-fan-motored fabric pillows by Pablo Reinoso and mounted gold pearl beads by Paola Pivi are displayed. Both works fit perfectly in the settings consisting of the brand’s spring/summer collections. In the private reception room on the top floor, works by Peter Marino himself, Andrew Lord, and Ned Vena contribute to an undisturbed moment of serenity and intimacy.

Image Credit: © Tim Franco courtesy of Chanel