The Art of Tailoring: The Neapolitan Cut

The Italians have always been innovators in the art of tailoring that takes the individuality and traditional style of sartorial elegance to an even higher level.  Something that is misunderstood more often than not is that a Neapolitan cut greatly diverges itself from a Milan cut.  This may not seem to be that big of a deal to some people, but it is definitely worlds apart for those who embrace the art of tailoring that the Italians, the Masters of the Cut, had long since regarded as tradition.

Clothing is the embodiment of one’s own character, the city it was created in, and the mood the wearer desires their garments to express; and as such, the difference of the cut has a significant emphasis on.  The Milan cut, which reflects the North, can be identified by either a signature blue or gray tone suit, whereas the Neapolitan cut of the South in Naples, where the cloth is always a statement, an exquisite expression continually meets the eyes.  We are honored to introduce the following three renowned Italian tailors of the Neapolitan cut , who have at least over 70 years of foundation, as well as express several points of interest to the well dressed and (well groomed) sophisticated gentleman.

Cesare Attolini Fall/Winter 2018-2019
Photo Courtesy of: Cesare Attolini

Cesare Attolini Fall/Winter 2018-2019
Photo Courtesy of: Cesare Attolini

Cesare Attolini

Ceasre Attolini’s signature and classic unstructured sports coats, which symbolizes the one of a kind style of Napoli, will always remain timeless.  The founder, the late Vincenzo Attolini, who was inspired by the English cut, but never cared for the jacket’s padding, envisioned a more refined silhouette.  Vincenzo Attolini’s grandsons, Massimiliano and Giuseppe, are  presently running the family business, in which they now offer a variety of high-end fabrics to create a very expressive line-up of jackets.  They are famous for their stylish three-button sports coats with a high armhole, which creates a roped shoulder.

For more information visit:  CesareAttolini.com

KITON Uomo SS18
Photo Courtesy of: KITON

KITON Uomo SS18
Photo Courtesy of: KITON

KITON

Established in 1956 by Ciro Paone, Kiton pioneers the best and most luxurious performance materials on the market. Their Neapolitan cut sports coats are well rounded lapel roll that can only be made by hand. Kiton specializes in exquisitely handmade tailored clothing, using only the best of fine and rare fabrics, such as Vicuna and baby Cashmere

For more information visit:  KITON.it

Isaia Spring/Summer 2018 lookbook
Photo Courtesy of: ISAIA

Isaia Spring/Summer 2018 lookbook
Photo Courtesy of: ISAIA

ISAIA

This traditional Italian tailor in particular took the fashion industry like a VOLCANO, when its creator, Gianluca Isaia, displayed his eccentric yet refined sense of style.  This fashion icon was almost always seen in patterned suits with vivid colors and a pair of trademark red flip-flops. Isaia’s specialty is the Neapolitan cut in an array of very colorful and very distinctive suits and sport coats.

For more information visit:  ISAIA.it

Featured Image Courtesy of:  Cesare Attolini

Vacheron Constantin Delivers a Vintage Line of Timepieces to New York

The prestigious Swiss watch manufacturer, Vacheron Constantin, which is a brand of the Richemont group, are now bringing a vintage selection of timepieces to their Madison Avenue boutique in New York.  This rare Vacheron Constantin timepiece selection, also known as Les Collectionneurs, was culled from private collectors, auction houses and even the Swiss watchmaker’s own archival department.

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 11761 from 1951 (Priced at $362,000)

Les Collectionneurs belongs to a traveling offering of unique timepieces that has made stops in key cities such as Singapore, London and most recently, at Manhattan’s jewelry boutique, Material Goods, of which specializes in luxury gems and timepieces.  The collection will continue its journey around the world after they finish their exhibition in New York, thereby debuting Les Collectionneurs in several more key cities along the way.

“The passion from Vacheron Constantin collectors is absolutely amazing,” says Selmoni. “Their deep knowledge of our vintage creations is at times even challenging for me!”

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 11561 from 1993 (Priced at $412,000)

Though each time they arrive at a new destination, it is inevitable that timepieces in the collection will decrease, however, the Swiss watchmaker continues to seek replacements as the traveling offering reaches the next city.  The collection is currently on display at the newly refurbished 729 Madison Avenue Vacheron Constantin boutique, where a total of 13 vintage pieces are available that date all the way back to 1928 to as late as 1993 with prices for minute repeaters ranging from at least $12,000 to as high as $500,000.

“There is a strong desire for legendary Vacheron Constantin designs from the past, such as the Chronomètre Royal, the “Cioccolatone” model, and the famous chronograph reference 4072,” states Selmoni. “We also offer some very rare minute-repeater wristwatches from the ’40s to the ’60s—in particular the reference 4261, which is to me the most exceptional design of Vacheron Constantin from both an aesthetic and technical angle. The 4261 from 1951 in yellow gold is a sublime example of Vacheron Constantin watchmaking art.”

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 11993 from 1957 (Priced at $20,800)

With around 1,100 people worldwide, which are primarily based in the manufacturing plants in Geneva and Vallée de Joux, Vacheron Constantin serviced each timepiece in the traveling offering by their traditional specialists in Geneva so that they would look immaculate.  In addition, each of these timepieces are given a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer as well as a two-year warranty, which is shocking because it’s not possible available even when collectors acquire them through vintage dealers or other consignors.

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 12074 from 1945 (Priced at $12,800)

“We began to sell vintage Vacheron Constantin timepieces some 10 years ago,” says Vacheron Constantin Style & Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni. “However, we did it with a very limited focus and external communication behind it.” Selmoni says that the watchmaker has now changed its vintage-timepiece pace from “passive mode” to “push mode”.”

Vacheron Constantin is taking the vintage and pre-owned markets by storm now that vintage timepieces have been trending in the watchmaking industry.  Demonstrating their over two-centuries worth of history and incredible insight, the brand has overtaken its competitors, whether it be either heavyweights or independent names in the watchmaking industry, who are just beginning to put their hands in this market, and left them in the dust with the traveling offering of Les Collectionneurs.

“Vacheron Constantin started to create its own collection of vintage, historical timepieces in the early 20th century,” says Selmoni.

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 11757 from 1928 (Priced at $80,500)

Though Vacheron Constantin boutiques will not be supplying a steady stock of vintage timepieces, this traveling offering will remain ongoing and include special events surrounding the collection during each visit to a key city.  Each timepiece in the collection was manufactured at least 20 years or more ago, however, the heart of Les Collectionneurs has pieces that were produced around 60 to 80 years ago.

This vintage line-up of Vacheron Constantin timepieces will be available at their boutique on 729 Madison Avenue until August 17th, and soon afterwards it will travel from its New York boutique to its Japan location.

For more information visit:  Vacheron-Constantin.com

Photos Courtesy of:  Vacheron Constantin

Bottega Veneta Announces Daniel Lee as Their New Creative Director

The highly-regarded Italian goods and fashion brand, Bottega Veneta, will officially appoint a new Creative Director to the House on the 1st of July, 2018.  This new addition to Bottega Veneta is the incredibly skilled designer, Daniel Lee, who graduated from the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 2011.  Daniel Lee succeeded Tomas Maier, who left his position on Wednesday, June 13th after serving as Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director for 17 years.  Before being appointed the Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee had recently served as the Director of Céline’s Ready-to-Wear Design, and also had prior roles at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan.

Image Courtesy of: Kering

“I am very pleased to welcome Daniel Lee to Kering as Creative Director of Bottega Veneta,” said François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering. “The singularity of his vision inspired by a very personal creative approach convinced me that he was best able to open a new chapter in the history of the House. His work is characterized by great rigor, a mastery of studio expertise, a true passion for materials and an energy that I cannot wait to see take shape at Bottega Veneta.”

The half-a-century year-old fashion brand, Bottega Veneta is managed by the global luxury group, Kering, which additionally controls the development of a number of world-famous maisons in the Fashion, Leather Goods, Jewelry and Watchmaking fields: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Christopher Kane, Tomas Maier, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, as well as Kering Eyewear.

“Daniel Lee has a deep understanding of the House’s current challenges both in terms of creation and development,” noted Claus Dietrich Lahrs, CEO of Bottega Veneta. “He will bring to Bottega Veneta a new and distinctive creative language that will continue building the House’s success based on the ambitious foundations already developed over recent years.”

The Bottega Veneta brand has been fully immersing itself in the traditions of Italian leather craftsmanship since their foundation in 1966 in the Veneto region as they continue to cultivate their luxury goods and high fashion-wear.  They uphold an extraordinary Italian philosophy that is split into four abiding principals, which are as follows: outstanding craftsmanship, timeless yet innovative design, contemporary functionality, and the highest quality materials possible.

Daniel Lee stated: “I’m both honored and excited to continue the legacy that has been created at Bottega Veneta over the last five decades. Maintaining the ingrained codes of the House, craftsmanship, quality and sophistication, I look forward to evolving what has gone before, while contributing a new perspective and modernity.”

The New Curiosity Shop by Bvlgari Opens in Rome

Bulgari built the New Curiosity Shop to symbolize creativity in the brand, to challenge and surpass previous set limits, to bring about a contemporary edge to things, and to pay homage to the Old Curiosity Shop that opened in 1905.  The New Curiosity Shop was designed as a concept store by Bulgari in order to restore and honor the once legendary Old Curiosity Shop at Via dei Condotti in Rome.  Bulgari’s founder, Sotirio Bulgari got the name for the shop from a Charles Dickens novel, which was chosen to reestablish the Maison’s visionary outlooks and cultural history.

The shop officially made its launch on January 31st and features wide-range of curiosity from the Italian jeweler.  The historical location became the perfect place to set up a space in which introduces you to many curiosities.  It offers visitors an unforgettable experience that links the past to the future of Bugari and to the direction they’re heading towards.

Image credit: Bulgari

The interior of the New Curiosity Shop was made to integrate conflicting design elements and details throughout the layout.  The exact purpose of adding contrasting aspects to the store concept was for assimilating dualism into it.  On one side of the shop, you will step into a room with a refreshing ambiance that brings together exquisite wood, fine velvet, and evocative finishes.  However, on another side there would be a room with sublime marble furnishings, luminescent color schemes, and entirely white leather finishes.  To put it simply, the interior design of the New Curiosity Shop serves as the perfect playground for visitors to come in, choose from a wide array of curiosities, have fun and leave with a truly memorable experience.

Image credit: Bulgari

Bulgari created a couple of limited edition commodities exclusively for the New Curiosity Shop alone; these include pieces such as an all-new version of the Serpenti Twist Your Time and Serpenti Tubogas wrist watch that both come together with a separate pink gold and diamond pavé case.  Furthermore, the party’s not finished just yet as the shop also introduces an exclusive and very beautiful mini jewelry collection called CONDOTTI10, in order to commemorate the grand opening.

For more information visit:  Bulgari.com

Featured Image Courtesy of:  Bulgari

Meet Reed Kessler

Image Credit: Manfredi Equestrian

Meet the Holland based, American Show Jumper, Reed Kessler. Born into a passionate equestrian family, the innately talented athlete began ridding at just 6 months old, long before the now 23 year old could even walk. First having established herself as a shinning star in the world of Showjumping when she became the youngest ever Show Jumper to qualify for the Olympic Games. Wherein the vast majority of her teammates were well into their 30’s or 40’s.  Reed now focuses the majority of her career on the European circuit, where regular Grand Prix’s occur just a relatively short distance from her 25-acre farm in the Netherlands.

Just this April, we were given the exclusive privilege of interviewing Ms. Kessler during her off time; read on to learn more about the incredible Equestrian, Philanthropist, and Fashionista.

“I’m constantly inspired by Serena Williams. She is more than an icon, more like a force of nature. I really admire the balance she has between her immense success and her happiness as a human being who makes time for family and life.”

“My parents both rode as amateurs, so I grew up with horses. I started riding before I could even walk.”

“There’s no such thing as a typical day! It completely depends on where I am, what horses I have with me, where we are competing etc. When I’m home, I wake up between 7-7:30, I’m on my first horse by 8:30. I ride an average of 5 horses a day when I’m home, sometimes more or sometimes less. Again, it depends if all the horses are home, or if some are traveling to/from a show. I’m normally only home Monday-Wednesday, so I try to fit as much into those days as I can! After riding, I’m always in the gym. Then probably cooking at home with friends, taking it easy when I’m not competing. At shows, we can have anywhere between 2-7 horses depending where we are. The schedule could be all day, or late at night. It’s always changing!”

Image Credit: Digishots

“Probably the greatest lesson is to appreciate the highs and be gentle with yourself during the lows. We have a lot of longevity in our sport unlike gymnastics for example. So it’s normal that some years will be incredible and others less so. Very rarely do you have the best horse of your career every year of that career. Sometimes we have an incredible team at their peak, other times we are building the next star. It’s a marathon, not a sprint!”

“The sport is much more accessible in Europe. There are more shows every week and most of the breeding takes place in Europe. It’s also far less expensive. Basing in Europe, I get to be home at least 3 days a week, sometimes even the whole week when I’m doing shows close by. It’s a lot more traveling being based in the States.”

“I appreciate that! Mostly I’m not glammed up, but when I’m in a big city it’s nice to take off the breeches and boots and slip into something more fun! I love Dior, Vince, Zadig Voltaire, Helmut Lang, and Michi.”

Image credit: World of Showjumping – Jenny Abrahamsson

Image credit: World of Showjumping – Jenny Abrahamsson

“My favorite places are the exotic ones I haven’t taken the horses! Bali, Capetown, Cambodia, Tokyo are a few”

“Moisturizer, lip balm, my iPad, [and] a good book!”

“I’ve been an ambassador for Just World since I was a kid. I’ve volunteered at the sites in Honduras and Cambodia. It’s difficult with my schedule to do as much as I’d like to, it’s an amazing organization. There’s nothing like going to see the projects for yourself.”

Image credit: World of Showjumping – Jenny Abrahamsson

“My Instagram and Twitter are both @ReedCat5000 and I have an official page on Facebook. Also [at] ReedKessler.com”

A Look into Bridal Designer Hayley Paige

Bridal mogul Hayley Paige is renowned for the sparkling, lavish, and colorful dresses she designs. She’s made quite the splash in the bridal world, creating a community of brides unlike any other before her.

Hayley Paige grew up in California and was a gymnast throughout most of her childhood. She learned crochet when she was about four years old, but didn’t start to design or make her own dresses until around high school. Paige spent a lot of time reading bridal magazines and was absolutely fascinated by the emotion and authenticity behind the dresses she read in those magazines. She designed both of her prom dresses on her own, and both were, of course, white. This was the beginning of something entirely new for Hayley Paige. It was the beginning of her enormous impact on the bridal industry.

Paige attended Cornell University and double majored in both pre-med as well as Fiber Science and Apparel Design. Up until college, Paige always thought being a bridal designer was just a dream she would never really achieve, and instead imagined going into medicine. Just before her senior year, Paige interned at Elle magazine, and that was when she began to fall in love with design. It was at this point that she started to believe in herself. Now that she’d had a taste of the world she wanted, she could really have it. 

Credit: JLM Couture and Hayley Paige
Photographer: Sundance Photography

After an immense amount of determination on Paige’s part, JLM Couture finally took a chance on 25-year-old Hayley Paige. The beginning of Paige’s bridal line was barely funded, with two pattern makers and two sewers apart from Hayley herself. The original Hayley Paige line launched in 2011, alongside the Blush by Hayley Paige collection (which is very similar to the Hayley Paige, just at a lower price point).

Credit: JLM Couture and Hayley Paige
Photographer: Nato Tuke

Today, Hayley Paige creates over ten collections every year, with approximately fifteen to twenty dresses per line. Each of Paige’s dresses are known for their genuine uniqueness. They’re sensual, yet elegant. Simple, yet fabulous. Classic, yet modern. The Hayley Paige Red Carpet collection is the most unique of all, composed of one-of-a-kind, off-the-wall pieces. Paige strives, in all her works, to create dresses she’s never seen before, using flowers, lace, stripes, and exposed backs to achieve this.

Credit: JLM Couture and Hayley Paige

Paige’s dresses have been seen on many red carpets before, including the CMAs, VMAs, and CMTs; Paige’s works have been worn by celebrities such as Carrie Underwood, Olivia Wilde, and Chrissy Teigen. Kelsea Ballerini, a country artist, was also recently seen on the James Corden show wearing a custom blazer designed by Hayley Paige.

Hayley Paige collections are currently available in twenty six countries. Her dresses can be found in extravagant bridal publications such as The Knot, Martha Stewart Weddings, and Brides, as well as popular television shows such as Say Yes to the Dress and Hayley’s own digital series Hayley Ever After.

Depending on the dress, Hayley Paige gowns range from approximately $3,000 to $8,000. Paige’s extravagance and reputation allows brides to be their truly authentic selves on their special day. Paige has designed a dress for every girl’s taste: flowers, lace, tulle, sensuous, modest. It’s all there. Every bride deserves to be a princess or a queen on their special day, and Hayley Paige brides are undoubtedly the happiest.

Spinning a Yarn with Angela Bell

Angela Bell, the Scottish Cashmere Queen behind cultish sweater label Queene and Belle talks to the Extravagant about all things cashmere, her F/W2018 collection and collecting Edwardian vintage.

Angela Bell at her Scottish Borders Studio

Queene and Belle was founded in 2000 on the premise that snooze-inducing Argyles and Twin-sets needed a major rebrand. It is hard to find a more knowledgeable and passionate creative. Taking full advantage of generations of family knowledge, Scottish production resources, and time spent at Pringle, Bell creates her pieces in the scenic Scottish Borders, which she calls home. The vivacious designs are painstakingly executed through hand-knitting and intarsia techniques that take hours to realize, using decadent 6-ply yarns from Todd & Duncan. Each jumper is lovingly finished with a hand-stitched stylized St. Edward’s Crown.

Bell cites both her grandmothers as the Original Fashionistas in her life, although she draws a lot from contemporary iconography, she is always ready with a timely and on trend collection like this season’s Wild West themed confection. The label has recently added non-cashmere offerings to compliment its main design area because, let’s face it, nothing goes better with a boyfriend sweater than a poplin sundress. The perpetually cold amongst us rejoice.

What drew you to jumpers? Do you have a favourite one?

“My family have all been involved in the local cashmere industry for 4 generations, so I was always surrounded by sweaters. My dad must have had around 20 navy classics so I used to ‘borrow’ them! I guess, I’m always drawn to an oversize navy cashmere sweater because of this!”

Walk us through your design process at Queene and Belle. What is your favourite part? From where do you draw inspiration?

“I continually collect images, visit art exhibitions and people watch for inspiration and I especially love the textiles and patterns from Native American Indians. When I start designing I review all of what I have collected and, through a certain gut feeling, start to assemble my ideas for the new collection.”

Croquis Galore, Queene and Belle A/W2018

“When my designs are formulated, I draw up each design specification and issue them to the factory. I discuss the various knit samples I require and after they have produced these, the factory will go ahead with the actual samples. If new body shapes are needed or if new developments for knit trims are required, this is all done at this stage. It usually takes around 5-7 weeks for the factory to produce the sample collection and I continually visit the various technicians to discuss the work in progress. When the collection is finished, we arrange the photo shoot which is always done on the farm where I live. I use my home as well as the farm buildings (which date from the 1700’s) as an interior and the surrounding hills for the outside shots. Everything is done locally and my customers love that the ethos behind Queene and Belle is very much a personal story. I personally style the collection during the photoshoot, it’s my favourite part of the process as I love putting together new looks and seeing my vision come to life.”

What makes a Queene and Belle Jumper distinct from other luxury knitwear labels? 

“Queene and Belle sweaters always have lots of detailing whether it be our hand stitched crown, signature etched buttons, detailed intarsia or quirky take on a classic. All of our sweaters are very easy to wear and feel so light and soft. We also do very small runs and bespoke colours so customers will always have something very unique in this world of mass production (even at the top end of the market).”

Farm Camp Heritage Blanket, Queene and Belle A/W 2018.

Who makes a Queene and Belle Jumper? What is the brand’s value chain from fiber to end product? What about for the brand’s non-knitwear components?

“All of our knitwear is made in the local town of Hawick, which is famous for producing the finest cashmere for over 200 years. The yarn comes from Todd and Duncan who are based north of Edinburgh in Fife, a company who spin wonderful cashmere, yarn that is spun tighter than in other countries and therefore is less likely to pill and makes the final product last much longer. Having our knitwear produced locally means we can check everything at every stage and also do a lot of hand finishing in our studio.

Our cotton summer dresses and tops are all made by a family business in India who only make clothing for us. They are extremely talented and are able to construct the most intricate lace paneling, embroideries and shapes as most of our designs are inspired by vintage Victorian and Edwardian pieces. They only make what we sell, which is very important to us as we don’t want to overproduce. The same goes for our knitwear each piece is made to order.”

How does Scotland inform the brand? What are the challenges of working in Scotland?

“I think Scotland is very quiet and reserved…. a place to be discovered but truly loved when you take the time to visit. I see Queene and Belle in the same way. I love working in Scotland especially as my studio is on the family farm, it’s quiet and peaceful, I can have a clear head without any distractions and it’s always cold here so perfect for sweaters!”

Feeling Sheepish? Wool is a natural fibre with versatile properties.

Scotland has a proud artisanal heritage; do you think ‘Made-in-Scotland’ can have the same worldwide cache as ‘Made-in-Italy’? What do you think can be done to preserve its artisanal patrimony? 

“Scotland is not good at collectively singing its praises the same way as Italy does. The psyche here needs to change, especially at the government level and truly embrace all the great things that are made here, looking at all the positives instead of always trying to fix the negative things. They need the right person/group with an extensive knowledge and taste level, with the ability to correctly market Scotland the brand in a modern way which is inclusive of all of the diverse products produced from cashmere to agriculture.”

What does Quality mean to you? What does Luxury mean to you?  

“Quality means longevity, and timeless design and luxury means saving for something you really fall in love with and finally get.”

How does the perspective of generations inform your work? Is there a tension between Tradition and Modernity?

“Technology has primarily changed the productivity of the Scottish knitwear industry. Traditionally, knitwear was either hand knitted on hand frames or produced using a hand intarsia technique (for pictorial designs) on 8 -12 division frames which could knit 8 -12 garment panels at one time. This type of knitting was traditional, but at the same time labour intensive- it did however make a lovely tight quality knit – the type of knitwear that Scottish production was renowned for (although very often it was usually under-milled and the hand feel of the cashmere got better the more it was washed).”

Hokkaido Cardigan, Queene and Belle A/W2018

“Today, production is done on computerised machines which can do pretty much anything that the old machines could do but more efficiently. The stitch of the garments produced is a bit looser, which means the cashmere comes up softer in the initial milling. This is preferred practise now as consumers want to feel the softness instantly. The finishing side of the process is still very much the same as it always was with mainly women doing all of the body linking, collar linking and hand sewing functions.

These are just the general changes in the industry but there are a few mills and specialists still producing garments in the old way, so things have moved on with technological advances but the old ways have not been lost completely!”

How has Digital technologies affected your brand?

“It has had a positive affect for the brand, especially via Instagram. Digital technologies have helped introduce Queene and Belle to individuals who would never have known about us perhaps as there were no stockists near them.”

Who is the Queene and Belle client? What markets respond strongest to your vision? Has this client changed over time or remained the same?

“The Queene and Belle woman is emotionally drawn to our designs; she is an individual who loves unique things, high quality, sustainability, and the story.

Japan and UK are our strongest markets, they love our look.

Our clients have stayed loyal and evolved with us and introduced new ones through word of mouth.”

Regal Sweater, Queene and Belle

If you could fix one thing in the fashion industry, what would it be?

“I would like companies to return to producing one collection per season, as there is just too much product now. We really need to stop overproducing at every level of the market.”

What do you wish people would stop doing to their knitwear?

“Abusing it by not treating it with the care it deserves! It’s not leather, it’s a very delicate fabric which needs lots of love and respect! We actually offer a re-dressing service to help to give past Queene and Belle purchases a new lease of life. The service sees the garment returned to its artisan makers where it is washed, de-pilled and professionally pressed.”

Tell us about your collection of Edwardian vintage. What draws you to that era of costume history?

“Primarily white cotton, I adore white cotton as it just lifts everything and in that era it was so fine with lots of lace and embroidery. So feminine and timeless, the look compliments our cashmere perfectly.”

Carrie Shirt, Queene and Belle A/W2018

Where do you see your brand in the future?

“I would love it to continue as it is selling to lovely stores who appreciate the love, thought and care we put in to each of our designs.”

If you were not a fashion designer what would you be?

“In the costume department for films/TV”

Where can we follow you? Where can we get our Queene and Belle fix?

You can follow us on Instagram: @queeneandbelle

The collection is also available to buy at www.matchesfashion.com

To treat your cashmere right and for useful sweater care tips visit Queene and Belle’s site at:
https://queeneandbelle.com/cashmere-care/

Philately Meets Fashion In Lebanon

To all you stamp collectors, there’s a possible new addition to your collection! A stamp represents a country; it represents its history and its culture. When collecting all of these different pieces, it’s as important as collecting a bunch of paintings. It’s a collection filled with so much culture and information about different countries and populations.

When thinking about culture, you think about the literature of the country, about its art forms, or its music. Fashion is immediately on the mind. From their traditional costumes to the new designers coming up, fashion has a great part in a country’s accomplishments and memories.

On the 29^th of March, Lebanon took a step and officially added Fashion in the culture behind the stamp. Liban Post, the official post office of Lebanon, commemorated the Lebanese designer, Elie Saab with a stamp in his name.

“It was a way for the country to honor his accomplishments and all of his work”, says model Cindy Bruna.

 

Caroline Daur, Elie Saab, Cindy Bruna – Liban Post

Being a post office, one of Liban Post’s main jobs is to deliver any Lebanese package to the world. Elie Saab, through his remarkable designs, did the same in delivering “Lebanon” to the world.

The stamp was purely designed by Elie Saab himself, following all of the brand’s rules. It was named “Elie Saab, Le Timbre” (Le Timbre meaning “The Stamp” in French).

As for the event itself, it was held at Beit Beirut, an old house in the middle of Beirut that was destroyed during the civil war. By planning the event there; it was a way to honor Lebanon, its history and its culture in every way possible.

Beit Beirut was fully designed by the Elie Saab team with different works, pictures and information displayed around. It was as if one was walking into an Elie Saab exhibition, gaining so much knowledge about the designer.

Beit Beirut – Liban Post

The unveiling of Elie Saab Le Timbre by Liban Post was an event that did more than it had to. It gave people a chance to be part of a point in history: where fashion meets philately in Lebanon, a chance to see culture be appreciated, and lastly observe and learn about the beautiful designs of Elie Saab.

The Unveiling of the stamp: Khalil Daoud, PM Saad El Hariri, Elie Saab – Liban Post

An Interview With Alex Assouline

Alex Assouline carries himself differently than most people his age. At first impression, it takes a second to remember that he’s only in his mid-twenties. When I met him in his office one afternoon, he greets me in a three piece suit, immediately apologizing for making me wait an extra three minutes. He’s had a busy day, he explains. I, however, hadn’t even noticed those three minutes as, sitting in the lobby, I’m intrigued by the gorgeous coffee table books that surround me. Highlighted in a striking red, all-encompassing book case, the titles catch my attention. Dior. Chanel. Bentley. Vintage Cars. Up next, he tells me, is a book with design family Missoni. But, it’s not the book you’d expect: it’s a cookbook. It’s unique, and it’s on brand with Assouline, the publishing company Alex’s parents started that records culture in an elegant, timeless way.

Our conversation took us through some of that culture, with more upcoming additions to the Assouline catalogue, his passion project, and his fashion inspirations.

For those of us who are not already familiar with your family’s publishing house, give us an introduction to Assouline and your role within the company.

“So Assouline is a nearly 25 year old coffee table book publisher. We specialize in books about art, lifestyle and culture. I joined a few years ago after working in consulting. I’m now the director of marketing, and I work a lot on interior design, where I curate libraries, especially in New York.”

Other than the Missoni book, can you tell us what’s coming up for you? 

“I’m working on a fantastic book on [Azzedine] Alaia, who passed away a few months ago. It’s a very dear project to me because he was my godfather. We’re working on a special edition as well, leather bound with three different covers. It’s going to be a good homage.”

Tell me about the process of curating a library.

“So I started that a few months ago as an organic extension of what I was doing, but just on the side. So I met with a friend of mine for lunch and she was working on a building with her family as well, and she was just saying that she needed a space where–she needed a library, you know? She needed a space where people could just sit down and unplug from everything and feel safe and troubles with their minds are gone. And it just was a perfect fit, so I started one there, at The Shephard with the Naftali Group. Then I started having some requests, from word of mouth, and then started to structure it as a part of the business. So I go to a very specific place, whether it’s a hotel, restaurant, office, apartment or amenities for a library building, I just study the place, the neighborhood, the tenants, who goes there and their interests, and after a few days or weeks I just come up with something. A little drawing, a proposition. It’s a passion at this point.”

I can tell. 

“It’s my own thing. Something I developed that I’m happy about and proud of. It’s kind of the extension, when you have a family business, that you need to find your area to develop, while still being in the family business. And I found it, so I can have my own thing on the side.”

So let’s talk about style. Do you have a style philosophy? Do you have some icons you look up to? 

“I just saw a documentary on Gianni Agnelli. It absolutely changed my philosophy of fashion. It was so interesting because this guy was super well dressed, and he wasn’t scared of going his own way and his own style. Like putting the watch over the cuff, for example. And he did it in such a stylish way, that’s very inspiring. There’s no real boundary that you have to set for your style.

I like to wear suits. I feel good in a suit, I feel comfortable in a suit, which may sound a bit not genuine, but to me I really feel comfortable. You need to present yourself in a way that people can receive well. It’s an action of respect as well. I keep t-shirts for Sundays.”

Where are some of your favorite places to buy suits? 

“I have the two extremes. I have a tailor in Hong Kong that comes once a year or once every two years. So I just see everything, all the patterns that I can do. I’m very into plaid, so I’m very experimental in that way. So that’s fun. And then, I have a store in Paris where I buy most of my suits called Wicket. I trust them, I know every time I go I’m going to leave with a couple. It’s exactly my taste. In New York, I just buy my shirts at Brooks Brothers. Cufflinks, only vintage and on eBay. And suspenders as well, only on eBay. I have a big collection of suspenders. I’m very proud of it. I used to go on eBay and start betting on crazy suspenders and I would try to get a pair once a week. I cannot stop, but I don’t have space anymore.”

Do you have any brands of suspenders that we would recognize? 

“There’s vintage Ralph Lauren and there’s Trafalgar. These are the only two I find, but when I go to a vintage store or something, I might stumble upon something unusual, but it’s very rare. It’s not really in today’s culture, even to carry in vintage stores.”

Where did your love of suspenders come from? 

“That’s the thing. I didn’t see them anywhere, and I wanted to have something different. I wanted them with different colors, like an accessory that wasn’t something you couldn’t see on everyone. I wanted to build my own identity from that.”

What about timepieces?

“I don’t like extravagant or showy timepieces. I love my Cartier Tank because it’s meaningful to me. I got it when I was 18, and there was a big story behind it. My father, when he was an assistant and he was 18, saw it on his boss at the time in an elevator. And he said, “wow, this is what I want for my son one day.” And he got it for me when I was 18. So I just keep it at all times.”

Take me through a day in your life. 

“I wake up at 6:30 or 7, depending on what I did the night before. Then I jump on my rowing machine for about 20 or 30 minutes. I have to do that every day because it keeps my body moving at all times. It gives me the right energy. Then I have a big glass of water, shower, go to the office, meet with my team around 9 or 9:30. I try to separate my day around the tasks in the aspects of marketing or the library or communications. Mostly, I start with working on the new products we’re going to release–for example, we’re working on bookstands, candles. Then I answer e-mails for partnerships that we’re doing, and work on marketing products for books–how to make the book come to life. And then quick lunch with my parents to debrief about what’s happening in the company. And after that go back to the office, until I finish the day and I take out my pencil and I just draw a library. For a client or just to practice. I leave the office around 7 or 7:30, depending on whether I have a drink with a client, or dinner, which usually happens.”

What’s your favorite drink? 

“I’m in my spicy margarita with salt phase. I don’t know how long that’s going to last. But, usually, I love a pisco sour. It’s a Peruvian drink made of pisco, lime juice, sugar and egg whites and a bit of tabasco.”

What do you feel like is different about New York? 

“What I see the most is the energy and the willingness for people to achieve. That’s a pretty cool trait.”

You can follow Alex on Instagram at @alexassouline and Assouline at @assouline. Assouline is on Twitter at @AssoulinePub.

Featured photo courtesy of: Assouline, by Josh Deveaux.

Dior Takes Canada

There’s no doubt about it: Christian Dior is legendary. And so, in a special exhibit at the Patricia Harris Gallery at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, Canada, the French designer is celebrated in an exhibition of beauty, elegance and, of course, fashion.

Check out some photos from the exhibition below:

For more information visit:  www.rom.on.ca/en/dior